Morris Minor Owners Club

gave up on the pump...it just wasn't having it....so brought a new one

slight update....head gasket went as soon has it got hot....turned out the new type of head gasket available is no good .....managed to source a copper head gasket locally from old stock ............now got decent compression....all @ 150psi

well looks like i was 180 out after all....thought i had checked it right.......got it started....for a brief moment...so now im on the home run.....................many thanks people....me and sister now happy it started

Sorry if I>ve mis understood but you need to get both no 4 valves rocking to get no 1 on firing stroke, both valves should be closed when its coming up onto tdc on 1 not rocking,rocking valves mean that the piston is just about to go down on inlet not on firing/compression.Unless I have missread yo...

when i say rocking i mean no 1 tappets are rocking and piston at tdc....so both are closed ...it just puffs via the carb...but no start

sorry been busy to get back here to check for updates....many thanks for your replies..... compression i consider is not the best....but then done on a new engine and on a cold day no 1 9.5 bar no 2 8.5 bar no 3 8 bar no 4 7.2 bar engine had been sitting around a little bit before i managed to get i...

yes the head was rebuilt

stripped the carb today and cleaned up.....i know its got me thinking...what could it be.....one thing im thinking atm is that i dont feel alot of air suction from the dizzy vac pipe.....on my mini/escort you can hear and feel the pressure from the vac pipe when disconnected.....but dont feel any on...

its firing at all the plugs in the right order.....i checked and doubled checked.....and my friend did the same....so it shouldn't be wrong..........found before hand that the original ht leads screw connectors had broken internally...tested on the meter and they were x-rayed at work to make sure th...

tried the petrol down carb...didnt work....valve gaps correct

right now i got issues with my sisters moggy.....last time she drove it,it decided to give up the ghost and was playing silly buggers and wouldn't start.......she already got a garage to look at before asking me and they couldn't fix it.....then i tried and found few problems with compression and no...

got ya.....not sure i did it that way or not....i assume you bend the tab on the rocker to set the throw over?

i have adjusted the diaphragm tight then back it off until you could push against the diaphragm and it flicked over then undone 2 more holes in anti clock wise....while keeping the 30tho gap..ive tried making it looser but still no joy

hello people....long time since been on here.....my sister managed to break the engine after restoring the moggy :evil: ...so full strip/ rebuild now a new engine....now im having problems with the fuel pump.....it wont pump....nowt...dead horse.....took apart and found it was a bit stuck from rust....

ive had my gas/no gas clarke welder for 15 yrs now and mostly use flux cord wire and get a good weld...but also have the option to use gas if i want to.....then i have a arc/tig inverter for the more heavy stuff

hi everyone. its said sister here. i was driving around with no back brakes for a while coz we couldn't sort this problem (one click on the adjustment seized the brakes on, one click off meant no brakes, everything else had been checked). it was only on one wheel. with the MOT coming up obviously it...

yeah, haynes indeed!! like you say, being tapered i didn't think it could have gone the other way. much obliged.

yeah, sorry the track rod ends. bottom. excellent. the manual is wrong then, i can live with that!! thank you

hi there. am in process of changing the steering gaitors but my ball joints have the castle nut on the underside as opposed to on the top, as shown in the manual. Can anyone advise which is the right way round??! turning it round so its as shown means its at the wrong angle and doesn't physically go...

or buy a sheet of gasket paper and make your own