HELP i need some one ...Help...its hurting my head

[kennatt]

Easy start isn't a good idea, if it doesn't start it washes off all the oil from around the bores and you end up with a siezed engine if you leave it for any legnth of time.

.................... Easystart is mainly aromatic and evaporates within seconds of being sprayed(Try it on a metal panel gone within seconds) Once you spray it into the carb it becomes a vapour and is just drawn into the engine and if it dosent fire then its is shoved out through the exhaust Petrol left in the engine is a thousand times worse,that can wash off oil,although don.t think its a problem anyway.If it is still dead with easystart,then it will never start on petrol, something is way out,timing ignition fuel compression.

[flying]

sorry been busy to get back here to check for updates....many thanks for your replies.....

compression i consider is not the best....but then done on a new engine and on a cold day

no 1 9.5 bar
no 2 8.5 bar
no 3 8 bar
no 4 7.2 bar

engine had been sitting around a little bit before i managed to get it back in....and yes i did have a little trouble getting it to turn originally...i put some thin oil before turning...but i didn't have to force it

i have been looking/checking settings tappet clearance,spark gap etc again and trying different things pouring petrol direct into carb...and still no fire

i noticed that the electronic ignition pick up point (magnet) was a quite a bit out of the module when it was set at TDC ...according to their instructions it can not be set as a static timing....to put it in the right place meant the rotor arm was quite a way out from no 1 ht lead...so to make sure it wasn't that playing up by firing at the wrong time i put the points back in.....no fire

i have had the top cover off and got no 1 valves to rock and timing mark was aligned to TDC and rotor arm pointing towards port 1....cap fitted rotor arm to lead 1 then 3 then 4 then 2 in anticlockwise...and spark set to open ....no start...and moved slightly either way to see if made a difference to starting

i have not had it stop on starter motor on turn over if retarded to much......i get a bit of back fire puff via carb air inlet if i have the throttle open.......but still no joy

most likely is the timing...its either just playing silly buggers or ive just done something wrong and just don't see it.....which ever one it is....its got me so far

[kennatt]

Sorry if I>ve mis understood but you need to get both no 4 valves rocking to get no 1 on firing stroke, both valves should be closed when its coming up onto tdc on 1 not rocking,rocking valves mean that the piston is just about to go down on inlet not on firing/compression.Unless I have missread your meaning of rocking. If rocking on 1 then the timing marks would still show tdc but on no 4.as the cylinder on firing stroke.

[MarkyB]

I think Flying is correct with his method of getting TDC.
When the rockers are rocking and the piston is at the top it's on the compression stroke which is when you want the spark.

You asked:
convert 9.5bar to psi
137.7858511 pound per square inches


You asked:
convert 7.2 bar to psi
104.42717136 pound per square inches

Quite a wide spread here, more equal numbers would be better but they still sound bearable.
The a bit of back fire puff via carb, does it fire at all or just puff mixture out?

[flying]

when i say rocking i mean no 1 tappets are rocking and piston at tdc....so both are closed ...it just puffs via the carb...but no start

[taupe]

Hi

If the valves are rocking (exhaust just closing and inlet just opening) on No. 1 cylinder then you need to rotate engine one full revolution to get TDC on compression stroke? or as Kennatt says above check when No. 4 cylinder valves are rocking.

Taupe

[flying]

Sorry if I>ve mis understood but you need to get both no 4 valves rocking to get no 1 on firing stroke, both valves should be closed when its coming up onto tdc on 1 not rocking,rocking valves mean that the piston is just about to go down on inlet not on firing/compression.Unless I have missread your meaning of rocking. If rocking on 1 then the timing marks would still show tdc but on no 4.as the cylinder on firing stroke.

im setting it just after 4 have closed and 1 are just about to move(open close).......maybe thats where i might be going wrongeasy enough to try

[simmitc]

Take out the electronic thingy and put in normal points and condenser. Set the points gap to 15 thou. Remove the spark plugs. Put your thumb over No. 1 plug hole (that's the front of the engine!), and by hand, turn the engine until you feel pressure building up. Now look at the timing marks underneath the crank shaft pulley and line up so that the notch in the pulley is between the middle and longest mark. Now set the timing so that the points are just opening (strobe from the coil HT or the old fashioned lamp/meter on the low tension.

At this stage, also check that the rockers on No. 1 are free. Fit a NEW rotor arm and note where it is pointing. Fit the HT lead for No.1 to that terminal on the cap, and proceed 1,3,4,2 anti-clockwise.

start the car

The compression readings are a bit too spread for comfort, but should not prevent running. Good luck.

[flying]

well looks like i was 180 out after all....thought i had checked it right.......got it started....for a brief moment...so now im on the home run.....................many thanks people....me and sister now happy it started

[MarkyB]

Well done!
If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again!

[Dean]

Exellent news well done!

[kennatt]

yes its easy to get it wrong since TDC on pully indicates that Both no 1 and No 4 are at the top but one of them will allways be on compression/ firing and the other going onto inlet. several ways to check it but now you know how ,so result all round

[izzi]

You have not mentioned that the coil has been checked yet,
have you checked every electric connection has been cleaned and properly connected.

good luck.

Roy.

[kennatt]

seeing as he's obviously on holiday again ( ITS NEVER THE COIL)

[flying]

slight update....head gasket went as soon has it got hot....turned out the new type of head gasket available is no good .....managed to source a copper head gasket locally from old stock ............now got decent compression....all @ 150psi