Morris Minor Owners Club

Oh....and just a thought.

The head is torqued as per the book.

Assuming I may as well nip it down a wee bit more, has anyone got any figures they could suggest?

Lots of food for thought there. While running with cap off to clear air lock the coolant does change colour slightly, taking on a slightly lighter and perhaps more 'fizzy' look. There has been very little loss of coolant, perhaps less than an inch in the header. I never saw the old gasket, as it was...

I only need to use the car until the end of March at which point I can address the problem with an engine change. I never do more than 12 miles to and from work. Plain sailing 50mph all the way. It seems to me that I could leave the cap on the first notch, i.e. held in place but system not pressured...

In answer to Islips question, the block is a 1098 cc circa 1970 and the head is from the same cc but circa 1960's.

Just a bog standard engine set up.

I'm pretty well sure it's an air lock now. I've just run it to normal temp with the cap off and suddenly the heater actually heats the inside of the car and all the pipes are hot! Loads of movement in the header tank water, so the new pump is obviously working fine. The bubble must have escaped, so ...

Don't seem to be losing coolant. Today's trip to work has convinced me we are talking about a bubble in the system. 1. Warms up okay via thermostat. 2. After about 5 miles the temp starts to climb. 3. Then the guage goes to zero. 4. Back to 3/4 of max temp. 5. Back and forth every 30 seconds or so. ...

Just had head gasket replaced when coolant was over pressurised and overheating. Head was skimmed first. New pump also fitted. It was okay for a few miles but now get build up of pressure in coolant again leading to overheating and running on and a lot of gurgling when engine stops. Compression test...

Found an old strobe light in same box of bits! Results seem about the same with both methods.

If I use the strobe in future should I pull the vacuum pipe or leave it in place?

Found another coil in a box of bits. Slapped it on and it worked fine! Original coil must have been on its way out. Still odd that the car ran at all!

Thanks for all the tips.

Just read Ray's very informative tips on removal of master cyl and have slight mod to the technique which takes the 'grunt' out of it. Source two G cramps and a small plank of wood about 1" thick, 6" wide and 2"or 3" longer than the chassis rail is broad . USE SOUND WOOD! Lay the...

Thanks Richard. Lots to check for this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks boys. Just the info I needed.

Something really odd has happened to my timing. I put my test lamp on the + terminal of the coil and the other wire on earth. The bulb lights. I turn the dizzy through about 45 degrees.....nothing happens. I open the dizzy and pull the contacts apart by hand. I get the spark at the contacts. The bul...

So.....if the probe inside the wiper box was missing, then the wipers would run if you shorted the brass segment to earth? Is that correct? Having recently replaced my wiper motor assembly I am chasing my tail trying to get them to park in the correct spot! I know the principle, which is rotating th...

I know that the three wires into the wiper box are Green and black = to earth via the switch on the dash Green = from fuse Black = earth Inside the wiper box there is a copper probe which contacts a brass segment and makes a circuit and the wipers work. My question is - When the probe touches the br...

Sadly no evidence of excess fluid round the rubber boot.

New m/cyl fitted and we flew through the MOT first time! Thanks to all

I know it's too late for some of you, but I have a neat little trick to beat the speed cameras!

If you glance to your left while driving you'll see a dial with some numbers on it. When the needle points to the speed limit for the road you are on you'll not set off the camera.

Simple!

Used google chrome on the message board and found that the navigation bar on the left gave some odd results, often showing the source code of the shml pages visited.

Thanks folks. Some useful stuff to ponder. The bit about excessive travel on the master cylinder strikes a chord, as the squishy noise suddenly appeared half way through one of my many bleeding sessions. I think I'll just go for a new M/C and then re-bleed using your many suggested techniques.

I've bled brakes many times before, but seem to have lost the knack! New wheel cylinders and shoes fitted after many months under a sheet. Bled system until no bubbles present. But First pedal application drops to about 1 inch from boards. Subsequent pumps bring up the pedal resistance. Leave car fo...