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badly fitting doors
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:44 pm
by wilcox62
we,ve not long finished the re spray

and had both the van doors off

,problem is that we cant get them back on straight

,we,ve also had to replace the hinges on passenger side

.both doors just do not seem to fit...

is there a trick to this ?

at the moment they are catching the door pillar paint

they still shutt after a fasion
,
any help and suggestions would be much appreciated
thanks andy 
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:16 pm
by SR
ello mate ,are u talking about side or rear doors and have u welded anything while they were off,steve
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:33 pm
by les
You can spend a long time lining up doors on a minor, don't forget that moving the hinges inwards or outwards can make a difference to the gap at the 'b' post. You may have to sacrifice a small descrepancy in the flushness to the front wing, which again can possibly be rectified by adjusting the wing. Unfortunately it's all a bit of a juggling act!
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:01 pm
by SR
when i started my resto in sept 04, i replaced the n/s sill and repaired hinge pillar without the door fitted, i soon discovered this was not a good idea when the door gap dissapeared[ B-post], i cut the welds where hinge pillar cover meets flitch panel,got a short acro[screwjack] from work, and jacked from b-post to h/pillar, tack welded and tried the door, lovely jubbly ,perfect fit now but scary,steve
Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 7:41 pm
by brixtonmorris
if we are talking about cab doors and the window frame striking the painted section at the top rear corner of frame. then there is an error in the parallelness between the door pilar post and the b post.
doggy welding at the point where the door hindge post meets the sill, also the repair to the inner flitch, inside front wing area, where the lower wing bolts go.
its important with welding in this area to ensure that the chrome pin on the door, lines up with the sockert on the b post at all times. they are not aligned on many minors, the chrome socket is often pushed right back and are not working. this pin/hole device also stops the door vibrating.
doors
Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 8:43 pm
by Willie
WILCOX........Steve has asked the important question....did you
just remove the doors for painting purposes or did you do some
welding too?? If you merely removed them for painting then the
only difference would be the new hinges? Assuming that they are
no thicker than the originals then remember that they can be
adjusted upwards, and in, and out, and can be shimmed top or
bottom if only the top or bottom of the door is rubbing on the
'B' pillar.
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 5:38 pm
by wilcox62
firstly.sorry for the delay in getting back to you all.work unfortunatley

.we removed the doors ( front cab pair )for a respray and welded new floor and sills in.many thanks will persevere untill sorted ...andy

Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:05 pm
by rayofleamington
we removed the doors ( front cab pair )for a respray and welded new floor and sills in
I can't quite see if you meant yes or no. Was the welding done with the doors removed?
Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 12:40 pm
by wilcox62
the doors stayed on when the new sill was put on . thanks andy
Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 3:52 pm
by simmitc
Moderators:- Surely this should be under "body" ? It's clearly a request for advice / discussion, not a "useful tip".

Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 12:00 am
by Chris Morley
Moderators:- Surely this should be under "body" ?
Agreed - it's been moved....

doors
Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:03 pm
by phil63
I had that problem after I had sprayed every thing . I ended up taking the wing off again and fitting the door to the b post then the wing to the door
Phil