badly fitting doors

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wilcox62
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badly fitting doors

Post by wilcox62 »

we,ve not long finished the re spray :lol: and had both the van doors off :evil: ,problem is that we cant get them back on straight :oops: ,we,ve also had to replace the hinges on passenger side :evil: :evil: .both doors just do not seem to fit... :cry: is there a trick to this ? :o at the moment they are catching the door pillar paint :cry:they still shutt after a fasion, :-? any help and suggestions would be much appreciated :D thanks andy 8)
SR
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Post by SR »

ello mate ,are u talking about side or rear doors and have u welded anything while they were off,steve
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1070767
les
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Post by les »

You can spend a long time lining up doors on a minor, don't forget that moving the hinges inwards or outwards can make a difference to the gap at the 'b' post. You may have to sacrifice a small descrepancy in the flushness to the front wing, which again can possibly be rectified by adjusting the wing. Unfortunately it's all a bit of a juggling act!
SR
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Post by SR »

when i started my resto in sept 04, i replaced the n/s sill and repaired hinge pillar without the door fitted, i soon discovered this was not a good idea when the door gap dissapeared[ B-post], i cut the welds where hinge pillar cover meets flitch panel,got a short acro[screwjack] from work, and jacked from b-post to h/pillar, tack welded and tried the door, lovely jubbly ,perfect fit now but scary,steve
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1070767
brixtonmorris
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Post by brixtonmorris »

if we are talking about cab doors and the window frame striking the painted section at the top rear corner of frame. then there is an error in the parallelness between the door pilar post and the b post.
doggy welding at the point where the door hindge post meets the sill, also the repair to the inner flitch, inside front wing area, where the lower wing bolts go.

its important with welding in this area to ensure that the chrome pin on the door, lines up with the sockert on the b post at all times. they are not aligned on many minors, the chrome socket is often pushed right back and are not working. this pin/hole device also stops the door vibrating.
Willie
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doors

Post by Willie »

WILCOX........Steve has asked the important question....did you
just remove the doors for painting purposes or did you do some
welding too?? If you merely removed them for painting then the
only difference would be the new hinges? Assuming that they are
no thicker than the originals then remember that they can be
adjusted upwards, and in, and out, and can be shimmed top or
bottom if only the top or bottom of the door is rubbing on the
'B' pillar.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
wilcox62
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Post by wilcox62 »

firstly.sorry for the delay in getting back to you all.work unfortunatley :evil: .we removed the doors ( front cab pair )for a respray and welded new floor and sills in.many thanks will persevere untill sorted ...andy :lol:
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

we removed the doors ( front cab pair )for a respray and welded new floor and sills in
I can't quite see if you meant yes or no. Was the welding done with the doors removed?
wilcox62
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Post by wilcox62 »

the doors stayed on when the new sill was put on . thanks andy
simmitc
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Post by simmitc »

Moderators:- Surely this should be under "body" ? It's clearly a request for advice / discussion, not a "useful tip". :o
Chris Morley
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Post by Chris Morley »

Moderators:- Surely this should be under "body" ?
Agreed - it's been moved.... :wink:
Chris
-------------
1969 2-Door daily driver
phil63
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doors

Post by phil63 »

I had that problem after I had sprayed every thing . I ended up taking the wing off again and fitting the door to the b post then the wing to the door
Phil
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