Morris Minor Owners Club

Seized Alternator, what causes a 17 Lucas ACR to seize? The one I have is solid? Can anything be done with it? Any advice welcome

Lack of use and damp in the bearings...... was it working before? Spray WD40 in the bearings - leave overnight - and then try to get it moving back and forth. It may recover - or it may need new bearings........

Failed bearing. Strangely enough, I had one about a week ago. New bearings are available, but unfortunately they used to come in two different sizes - a small one for cars, and a larger one for heavy duty; and currently only the larger one seems to be about. Still easy to fix, but it required a new casing in order to take the new bearing. Just about cost effective when compared to the price of a new one, but ecologically it makes very good sense.

I'm sure the bearing will be available somewhere - if the sizes are known ? http://www.simplybearings.co.uk/shop/?g ... fAod0AOzmA

This link doesn't show the bearings -but does show the internal 'workings' . http://www.lotusmarques.com/info/techni ... or-diagram

This link shows a little bit of the rebuild - and shows the bearings but doesn't give the size. http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/ph ... php?t=4513

And this page by Adrian Dodd tells you how to test the alternator...... http://www.ilovemini.com/drupal/sites/d ... orTest.pdf

And this repair kit includes the bearings (yes -i know it's out of date...) but there will be similar http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI ... 500wt_1156

I gather both bearings on the earlier alternators are 6202 type - best to get the ones with double seals. The later ones use 6203 front bearing. Get the '2RS' bearings (Rubber Sealed). They are not exactly expensive ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Boxed ... 76c03b36dd

it been in my parts draw for a few years but one assumes it was working before it was removed but its solid, even had a spanner of the pulley ................still solid

Thanks for those links will take a look later

Oil and a good whack should get it going. I paid a whole Pound for a 17ACR that was 'solid' - that treatment worked and it's been on my Trav for a few years since.

Russ, give me a shout if you want a spare

Cheers

Colin may well take you up on that got a spare starter motor too?


bmcecosse where do I give it a whack and what with a rubber mallet?

Alternator in vice - ring spanner on the pulley nut - whack the ring spanner! I thought you had solved the starter problem with that earth cable ?? Of course - no harm having a spare starter or two...........

Was my spare starter no good afterwards? I thought it was ok?

Cheers

S

Hi Steve

Twas fine but now just clicking!

Still unable to start the motor on my rebuild

You said earlier it was working well after adding the earth lead! What's up now??

was turning over very well yesterday and now its just clicking? Could be solenoid? or starter

Or flat battery!

nope battery is good

Does the engine turn over on the handle ok ?

As. I said it was turning well on the starter and then it started clicking

Aye - but has the starter now jammed in ? Try the handle !

Ah....................starter jammed now turning and it fired! not running well seemed to fire on 3

Exhaust is only manifold and 1 box that is loose so it will not sound good.

Tell me the airtek pump is pumping well and is buzzing as it should?......however it does not stop buzzing I did expect it to stop when the HIF 44 carb float chamber at the bottom was full?

No leaks and not starting but now firing

Any other help needed

I have no idea what an 'airtek' pump is.........It may be too high pressure for the HIF causing it to flood over.. Check firing order is correct - 1342 anticlock around the dizzy cap. And it's possible a plug has oiled with various starting attempts. I assume valve gaps are correct. If all else is right - advance the timing till you get the engine 'kicking' against the starter - and then take it back slightly. This is just a starting (!) point - you can then road test it and set it so it's 'not quite' pinking.