Seized Alternator

[RussLCV]

Seized Alternator, what causes a 17 Lucas ACR to seize? The one I have is solid? Can anything be done with it? Any advice welcome

[bmcecosse]

Lack of use and damp in the bearings...... was it working before? Spray WD40 in the bearings - leave overnight - and then try to get it moving back and forth. It may recover - or it may need new bearings........

[simmitc]

Failed bearing. Strangely enough, I had one about a week ago. New bearings are available, but unfortunately they used to come in two different sizes - a small one for cars, and a larger one for heavy duty; and currently only the larger one seems to be about. Still easy to fix, but it required a new casing in order to take the new bearing. Just about cost effective when compared to the price of a new one, but ecologically it makes very good sense.

[bmcecosse]

I'm sure the bearing will be available somewhere - if the sizes are known ? http://www.simplybearings.co.uk/shop/?g ... fAod0AOzmA

This link doesn't show the bearings -but does show the internal 'workings' . http://www.lotusmarques.com/info/techni ... or-diagram

This link shows a little bit of the rebuild - and shows the bearings but doesn't give the size. http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/ph ... php?t=4513

And this page by Adrian Dodd tells you how to test the alternator...... http://www.ilovemini.com/drupal/sites/d ... orTest.pdf

And this repair kit includes the bearings (yes -i know it's out of date...) but there will be similar http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI ... 500wt_1156

I gather both bearings on the earlier alternators are 6202 type - best to get the ones with double seals. The later ones use 6203 front bearing. Get the '2RS' bearings (Rubber Sealed). They are not exactly expensive ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Boxed ... 76c03b36dd

[RussLCV]

it been in my parts draw for a few years but one assumes it was working before it was removed but its solid, even had a spanner of the pulley ................still solid

Thanks for those links will take a look later

[bmcecosse]

Oil and a good whack should get it going. I paid a whole Pound for a 17ACR that was 'solid' - that treatment worked and it's been on my Trav for a few years since.

[millerman]

Russ, give me a shout if you want a spare

Cheers

[RussLCV]

Colin may well take you up on that got a spare starter motor too?


bmcecosse where do I give it a whack and what with a rubber mallet?

[bmcecosse]

Alternator in vice - ring spanner on the pulley nut - whack the ring spanner! I thought you had solved the starter problem with that earth cable ?? Of course - no harm having a spare starter or two...........

[Pikey]

Was my spare starter no good afterwards? I thought it was ok?

Cheers

S

[RussLCV]

Hi Steve

Twas fine but now just clicking!

Still unable to start the motor on my rebuild

[bmcecosse]

You said earlier it was working well after adding the earth lead! What's up now??

[RussLCV]

was turning over very well yesterday and now its just clicking? Could be solenoid? or starter

[bmcecosse]

Or flat battery!

[RussLCV]

nope battery is good

[bmcecosse]

Does the engine turn over on the handle ok ?

[RussLCV]

As. I said it was turning well on the starter and then it started clicking

[bmcecosse]

Aye - but has the starter now jammed in ? Try the handle !

[RussLCV]

Ah....................starter jammed now turning and it fired! not running well seemed to fire on 3

Exhaust is only manifold and 1 box that is loose so it will not sound good.

Tell me the airtek pump is pumping well and is buzzing as it should?......however it does not stop buzzing I did expect it to stop when the HIF 44 carb float chamber at the bottom was full?

No leaks and not starting but now firing

Any other help needed

[bmcecosse]

I have no idea what an 'airtek' pump is.........It may be too high pressure for the HIF causing it to flood over.. Check firing order is correct - 1342 anticlock around the dizzy cap. And it's possible a plug has oiled with various starting attempts. I assume valve gaps are correct. If all else is right - advance the timing till you get the engine 'kicking' against the starter - and then take it back slightly. This is just a starting (!) point - you can then road test it and set it so it's 'not quite' pinking.