Morris Minor Owners Club

I am shortly to embark on replacing the crankshaft shells and can't find the torque settings involved, particularly the main and big end bearing caps.
I rebuilt the engine many years ago and I am sure I had this info, but I not any more!
Can any one help?

Torque Settings are as follows:-
Cylinder Head Bolts 44lbs.ft.
Main Bearings 42lbs.ft.
Big Ends 27lbs.ft.
Flywheel Bolts 44 lbs.ft.
Do not over tighten or you will stretch the bolts.
Tappets 0.017" hot, Impossible! 0.018" cold

With thanks to Mike Perry

Thanks - just the ticket!

Didn't someone have some specs/part numbers for better rod bolts?

Haven't got it all undone yet, but at the last oil change I was amazed at the sludge in the sump base (you can feel it through the drain hole must be 1/4in or so) - less than 30,000 since the sump was last off!
It's done about 75,000 since rebuilt - bores, crank, guides etc, has good oil pressure, doesn't burn oil and goes quite well (for an MM)
I have always changed the oil/filter at 3,000, so what is it? and where does it all come from?

sludge in the sump

Sludge is a mix of oil and water. Do you have checked the level of coolant (water)?

Coolant level always seems ok. I have now removed the fan blades and fitted an electric fan in front of the rad so there should be less of a 'cold blast' over the engine perhaps reducing condensation. I will see if this makes any difference.

Could it be worth trying a different make of oil as I have found that Duckhams when used in the colder weather can make the mayonnaise issues with the rocker box on the later cars more of an issue than say Castrol, have you always used the same make of oil.

No, I have tried a variety over the years and to be quite honest I haven't noticed any difference. In the sump now is Halfords Classic (I think Halfords used to/are owned by Castrol) which looks a nice oil. Which oil have MM owners found 'best' or would recommend?

Rob,
If you need new con rod bolts let me know.
Michael Perry
Sludge?
Are you getting mayonnaise in the oil filler pipe? Maybe you are not doing enough miles and getting the engine hot.
I also use Halfords Classic because it comes in a proper can which you can aim at the filler and stand a reasonable chance of getting some in the engine- could always try a funnel I suppose.

'No Mayo' in filler pipe!
Does anybody else remove sump as directed in the manual for a cleanout?
To be quite honest if I hadn't had a probe with my finger I would never known it was there!
I have recently fitted a Kenlowe engine pre heater which will obviously eliminate cold starts from home so I shall see if this makes any difference.
The Morris used to be my daily driver (passed my test in it) but these days only gets used occasionally so sludge build up will be a lot slower.

We found exactly the same 'sludge' in a side valve we took apart. It was almost 3/4 " thick in places, normally an indication of infrequent oil changes. Shouldn't it be every 3000miles with these engines. What it does mean is that you are running less oil than recommended due to the build up, so maybe increasing heat and wear in the engine.

3/4" is a lot of oil missing, if you were that far down on your dipstick you would get worried! I have never exceeded the 3000 change interval even though I guess modern oils would probably last better than the oils that were around when the engine was designed.
I know modern petrols burn better as indicated by virtually no more de cokes and I guess less oil contamination so perhaps less sludge?

It is, and you wouldn't see it on your dipstick if your one of those folk who fills up to the full line rather than measure the quantity going in. And yes the big ends were quite badly affected requiring replacement.