MM Bottom End

for those with Series MM sidevalve cars produced between September 1948 and February 1953
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
Post Reply
alanworland
Minor Legend
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
Location: Essex
MMOC Member: No

MM Bottom End

Post by alanworland »

I am shortly to embark on replacing the crankshaft shells and can't find the torque settings involved, particularly the main and big end bearing caps.
I rebuilt the engine many years ago and I am sure I had this info, but I not any more!
Can any one help?
Onne
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 3441
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:50 pm
Location: Mapperley Nottingham
MMOC Member: No

Post by Onne »

Torque Settings are as follows:-
Cylinder Head Bolts 44lbs.ft.
Main Bearings 42lbs.ft.
Big Ends 27lbs.ft.
Flywheel Bolts 44 lbs.ft.
Do not over tighten or you will stretch the bolts.
Tappets 0.017" hot, Impossible! 0.018" cold

With thanks to Mike Perry
Onne van der S. MMOCno 60520 Moderator
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
alanworland
Minor Legend
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
Location: Essex
MMOC Member: No

Post by alanworland »

Thanks - just the ticket!
Image
RobThomas
Minor Legend
Posts: 2647
Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 10:34 am
Location: Cardiff
MMOC Member: Yes

Post by RobThomas »

Didn't someone have some specs/part numbers for better rod bolts?
alanworland
Minor Legend
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
Location: Essex
MMOC Member: No

Post by alanworland »

Haven't got it all undone yet, but at the last oil change I was amazed at the sludge in the sump base (you can feel it through the drain hole must be 1/4in or so) - less than 30,000 since the sump was last off!
It's done about 75,000 since rebuilt - bores, crank, guides etc, has good oil pressure, doesn't burn oil and goes quite well (for an MM)
I have always changed the oil/filter at 3,000, so what is it? and where does it all come from?
Image
wimor
Minor Friendly
Posts: 72
Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2004 8:18 pm
Location: The Netherlands
MMOC Member: No

Post by wimor »

sludge in the sump
Sludge is a mix of oil and water. Do you have checked the level of coolant (water)?
alanworland
Minor Legend
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
Location: Essex
MMOC Member: No

Post by alanworland »

Coolant level always seems ok. I have now removed the fan blades and fitted an electric fan in front of the rad so there should be less of a 'cold blast' over the engine perhaps reducing condensation. I will see if this makes any difference.
Image
Kevin
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 7592
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2002 12:00 am
Location: Watford, Hertfordshire.
MMOC Member: No

Post by Kevin »

Could it be worth trying a different make of oil as I have found that Duckhams when used in the colder weather can make the mayonnaise issues with the rocker box on the later cars more of an issue than say Castrol, have you always used the same make of oil.
Cheers

Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)

Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
alanworland
Minor Legend
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
Location: Essex
MMOC Member: No

Post by alanworland »

No, I have tried a variety over the years and to be quite honest I haven't noticed any difference. In the sump now is Halfords Classic (I think Halfords used to/are owned by Castrol) which looks a nice oil. Which oil have MM owners found 'best' or would recommend?
Image
mike.perry
Series MM Registrar
Posts: 10183
Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:39 pm
Location: Reading
MMOC Member: No

Post by mike.perry »

Rob,
If you need new con rod bolts let me know.
Michael Perry
Sludge?
Are you getting mayonnaise in the oil filler pipe? Maybe you are not doing enough miles and getting the engine hot.
I also use Halfords Classic because it comes in a proper can which you can aim at the filler and stand a reasonable chance of getting some in the engine- could always try a funnel I suppose.
alanworland
Minor Legend
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
Location: Essex
MMOC Member: No

Post by alanworland »

'No Mayo' in filler pipe!
Does anybody else remove sump as directed in the manual for a cleanout?
To be quite honest if I hadn't had a probe with my finger I would never known it was there!
I have recently fitted a Kenlowe engine pre heater which will obviously eliminate cold starts from home so I shall see if this makes any difference.
The Morris used to be my daily driver (passed my test in it) but these days only gets used occasionally so sludge build up will be a lot slower.
Image
jonathon
Minor Legend
Posts: 4052
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2005 3:43 pm
MMOC Member: No

Post by jonathon »

We found exactly the same 'sludge' in a side valve we took apart. It was almost 3/4 " thick in places, normally an indication of infrequent oil changes. Shouldn't it be every 3000miles with these engines. What it does mean is that you are running less oil than recommended due to the build up, so maybe increasing heat and wear in the engine.

alanworland
Minor Legend
Posts: 1453
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
Location: Essex
MMOC Member: No

Post by alanworland »

3/4" is a lot of oil missing, if you were that far down on your dipstick you would get worried! I have never exceeded the 3000 change interval even though I guess modern oils would probably last better than the oils that were around when the engine was designed.
I know modern petrols burn better as indicated by virtually no more de cokes and I guess less oil contamination so perhaps less sludge?
Image
jonathon
Minor Legend
Posts: 4052
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2005 3:43 pm
MMOC Member: No

Post by jonathon »

It is, and you wouldn't see it on your dipstick if your one of those folk who fills up to the full line rather than measure the quantity going in. And yes the big ends were quite badly affected requiring replacement.

Post Reply