Morris Minor Owners Club

I think someone on here had a 1P cure for the SU waxstat? If so - can anyone point me to it please?

What problems / symptoms does the Waxstat present?

Uneven idling/poor fuel consumption etc etc.

'twas packed up who posted that - and I've found the link he posted about it too
http://www.nireland.com/gd.triumph/waxstats.htm

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it costs substaqntially more than a penny. Twice as much in fact!

I'll try and dig out the link, but basically you take the jet assembly off, and prise back the three bent tabs that hold the bottom cap onto the main part. There's a small solid metal cylinder (that you need to keep) and the waxstat pellet. The cylinder goes between waxcak and the bottom of the jet, so you place 2x 1p coins between said cylinder and the end cap, and bend the tabs back to hold it together. Might sound a bit jumbled, but it'll make sense when you do the job!

A couple of tips from experience - You might have to be very careful getting the end cap off as they can be tight and corroded onto the assembly. I broke one assembly trying to rush things a little expecting it to pop straight off.

Second, the whole lot is spring loaded, so when you come to get it back together the pennies can try and ping off before you get the end back on fully. I've taken to using a dab of glue (epoxy works well) just to hold the two pennies together to stop them sliding around and being so flipping fiddly.

IMO it's a very worthwhile mod, and a great deal cheaper than buying a special "non-waxstat" waxstat replacement jet assembly

Found the link

http://www.nireland.com/gd.triumph/waxstats.htm

I posted that before you got here

Many thanks Andrew - and 'packed-up' of course!! It's for my TR 7 - so the link being Triumph based is very appropriate - thanks again.

might try that myself thanks

I just fitted the jet from my HS2 to my new HS4. Same size and easily interchangeable. Voila - no more wax stat.

Choke linkage was a pain but I kludged something up using a bent bit of metal and some wire.

Is it as simple as that ? Pull out waxstat jet and stick in fixed jet - cos I have few of them floating around !

You will have to reset the mixture afterward you'll see that the jet sits higher than before.

bmcecosse wrote:Is it as simple as that ? Pull out waxstat jet and stick in fixed jet - cos I have few of them floating around !

'Fraid not - You can indeed "kuldge" one onto the other, but the choke linkate bit is a ball and springy socket on a waxstat, and a self tapping screw on a normal jet.

Honestly, the 2p mod is really straightforward and saves messing with linkages, buying new jets or any other expense then 2 whole pence - I'd stick with going that route myself (and I have, often) unless you happen to have a good not cakstat HS4 kicking about you can throw straight on (is the TR7 HS4 or HS6? I can't remember!)

And I would've got that link in first, if I'd typed my post quicker!

Sorry...
a

Twin HS6 on the TR 7. Runs well and surprisingly good economy if I stay at/below 70 mph - but idle is a very variable event - somtimes fast sometimes slow an lumpy! And no - the throttles aren't unusually worn - but it does have the daft wee valves on the plates-these will be coming out this winter, and that will be the chance to fit the 2P cure.

Gosh, you will have to splash out BMC twin carbs at 2p each will cost you fourpence!

In fact - hoping to pick up a pair of later HIF 44s for it!

My Metro HIF44 had one of those daft valves on the butterfly - A ten minute job to replace it with one from half a 44 I have in a box of carby bits

Not sure it's made a great deal of difference, but it certainly can't have hurt to ditch it.

Does the 7 have solid or rubber carb mounts? If it's the latter, it could well be one or both have perished enough to leak air. I'd still ditch the wax capsule anyway of course, even if the problem is elsewhere.

Yes - for some mad reason the carbs on TR 7 have rubber mounts - I know of no other car with these and my plan is to ditch them and use a bit of aluminium instead. I think common practice is to simply remove the valve and solder over the hole! Must let more air through at full pelt!