Waxstat 1P cure?
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Waxstat 1P cure?
I think someone on here had a 1P cure for the SU waxstat? If so - can anyone point me to it please?
'twas packed up who posted that - and I've found the link he posted about it too 
http://www.nireland.com/gd.triumph/waxstats.htm
http://www.nireland.com/gd.triumph/waxstats.htm
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it costs substaqntially more than a penny. Twice as much in fact!
I'll try and dig out the link, but basically you take the jet assembly off, and prise back the three bent tabs that hold the bottom cap onto the main part. There's a small solid metal cylinder (that you need to keep) and the waxstat pellet. The cylinder goes between waxcak and the bottom of the jet, so you place 2x 1p coins between said cylinder and the end cap, and bend the tabs back to hold it together. Might sound a bit jumbled, but it'll make sense when you do the job!
A couple of tips from experience - You might have to be very careful getting the end cap off as they can be tight and corroded onto the assembly. I broke one assembly trying to rush things a little expecting it to pop straight off.
Second, the whole lot is spring loaded, so when you come to get it back together the pennies can try and ping off before you get the end back on fully. I've taken to using a dab of glue (epoxy works well) just to hold the two pennies together to stop them sliding around and being so flipping fiddly.
IMO it's a very worthwhile mod, and a great deal cheaper than buying a special "non-waxstat" waxstat replacement jet assembly
I'll try and dig out the link, but basically you take the jet assembly off, and prise back the three bent tabs that hold the bottom cap onto the main part. There's a small solid metal cylinder (that you need to keep) and the waxstat pellet. The cylinder goes between waxcak and the bottom of the jet, so you place 2x 1p coins between said cylinder and the end cap, and bend the tabs back to hold it together. Might sound a bit jumbled, but it'll make sense when you do the job!
A couple of tips from experience - You might have to be very careful getting the end cap off as they can be tight and corroded onto the assembly. I broke one assembly trying to rush things a little expecting it to pop straight off.
Second, the whole lot is spring loaded, so when you come to get it back together the pennies can try and ping off before you get the end back on fully. I've taken to using a dab of glue (epoxy works well) just to hold the two pennies together to stop them sliding around and being so flipping fiddly.
IMO it's a very worthwhile mod, and a great deal cheaper than buying a special "non-waxstat" waxstat replacement jet assembly
'Fraid not - You can indeed "kuldge" one onto the other, but the choke linkate bit is a ball and springy socket on a waxstat, and a self tapping screw on a normal jet.bmcecosse wrote:Is it as simple as that ? Pull out waxstat jet and stick in fixed jet - cos I have few of them floating around !
Honestly, the 2p mod is really straightforward and saves messing with linkages, buying new jets or any other expense then 2 whole pence - I'd stick with going that route myself (and I have, often) unless you happen to have a good not cakstat HS4 kicking about you can throw straight on (is the TR7 HS4 or HS6? I can't remember!)
And I would've got that link in first, if I'd typed my post quicker!
Twin HS6 on the TR 7. Runs well and surprisingly good economy if I stay at/below 70 mph - but idle is a very variable event - somtimes fast sometimes slow an lumpy! And no - the throttles aren't unusually worn - but it does have the daft wee valves on the plates-these will be coming out this winter, and that will be the chance to fit the 2P cure.
My Metro HIF44 had one of those daft valves on the butterfly - A ten minute job to replace it with one from half a 44 I have in a box of carby bits
Not sure it's made a great deal of difference, but it certainly can't have hurt to ditch it.
Does the 7 have solid or rubber carb mounts? If it's the latter, it could well be one or both have perished enough to leak air. I'd still ditch the wax capsule anyway of course, even if the problem is elsewhere.
Not sure it's made a great deal of difference, but it certainly can't have hurt to ditch it.
Does the 7 have solid or rubber carb mounts? If it's the latter, it could well be one or both have perished enough to leak air. I'd still ditch the wax capsule anyway of course, even if the problem is elsewhere.