Morris Minor Owners Club

I think you are nearly there then.
What is your concern about where the choke cable meets the carb? There is a screw with a spring that adjusts the fast idle there.

I still suspect the leads.....only moments to move them round......

Well i've been reading about the fast idle screw and since i haven't got me engine started how do i set it to start with. I understand after it starts I can adjust the engine until it is idling smoothly.

And what about any other screws in that area/adjustments.

I really don't think it's the leads but it could be the ignition timing thing because I still haven't got my head around checking that. I found those ignition marks when i looked under the engine and I found the recess/bend in the pulley and turned the engine till they lined up. But after that i'm lost.

As the pulley rotates, the first mark the notch passes is 10 degrees BTDC, then 5 degrees BTDC, then TDC. TDC = Top Dead Centre, when the piston is at the very top of its stroke. The B is Before. As a starting point, the spark should occur around 3 degrees BTPC, so with the notch between the second two marks. Each engine will vary as to where is the best place is, but this will get it started. Once the engine is in the correct place (remember that you are timing on No 1 cylinder) then the points should just start to open, which will induce the spark.

To set the timing, first set the points gap (the widest distance they open as the central shaft in the distributor turns) to 15 thousandths of an inch. Then line up the timing marks, and finally rotate the whole distributor until the points just start to open. You may need to slacken the dissy clamp, or you may be able to use the vernier adjuster on the side - it just depends how well the dizzy was fitted originally.

To check when the points open, you need a test lamp, or a voltmeter, or a timing light. You might get away with earthing a plug on the block, but that can be a bit variable. You can also do it by sight, but that is even more unreliable.

Do you have a manual? The procedure is detailed in most of the manuals available, and is easier to see with pictures. Otherwise, report back with what tools you do have available.

Forget the timing (the marks are useless anyway) - and the screws - till you get it going. If you are so sure about the plugs...turn the dizzy clockwise little by little to see if it eventually 'kicks' against the starter......(it's gone too far if it does...) But I would swap the leads round first for all the 20 seconds it will take to try it.....

Well i'm going to go hunting for a feeler gauge or order one online, I have set everything by sight so far. The reason I don't think the leads are in the wrong place is because I did that compression test when I took all the sparks out and lined it up with the position of the rotor. But I will have another go no problem.

I had a read of the haynes manual and will try moving the dizzy by loosening the screw or by moving it along a bit on the micro adjuster screw. Thanks

edit: on this website in the servicing link it reads

"Set the timing with a small test bulb. This goes to earth on one side and to the springy arm in the distributor. Turn the engine over with the crank handle until the timing marks are correct. You can use the knurled wheel on the side of the distributor to adjust the timing (if fitted). If not or you run out of range then you need to move the distributor body. Slacken the locking bolt and turn the body until the light just comes on. Check it by making slight movements of the distributor so the bulb flashes on and off."

When it say's "springy arm" I assume it means on the points on the left side of the point?

Goodness knows - at the moment you just need rough setting - so the micro is no use to you - slacken the clamp and move the dizzy round 1/4" at a time to see if it starts - or kicks against the starter.

the above is spot on,as it seems you are not absolutely sure of which cylinder your engine is timed on ,good luck

Yes, the "springy arm" is the arm of the points. It's a simple, virtually foolproof method of setting the timing. Good luck.

But meaningless in this context where the spark may not be going to the correct plug......
Here's the foolproof method - remove the plugs, connect the plug lead you think is for #1 to a plug and lay it on the block. Remove the rocker cover. Turn the engine slowly on the handle (Ign ON ) and when the plug sparks STOP turning. Now look at the rockers - which cylinder has both valves closed - with the tiny valve gap apparent at each rocker? That is the cylinder that wants to fire with that plug lead..... Follow the rest round 1342 anticlockwise on the cap.

Frustration is not the word! The spark plug stopped sparking today and I was only seeing a spark on some turns of the handle. So think maybe i need to reset the points, I turned the distributor and tried to start but nothing. I followed the advice of taking out plug on cylinder 1 and turned the handle until i felt compression and it pushed my thumb away and both the valves on cylinder 1 were flat. below is the picture of where the rotor arm was after the compression finished and valves the same on 1.

I had to turn the distributor to the left making it more vertical and hopefully the pictures show that the rotor arm is in line with the lead of plug 1. Is this correct now?[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

If it stopped sparking..well..you need to sort that out first! Looks near enough right in the pics - then 1342 anticlock....

Thank you everyone for the help. I have decided that this project is out of my league for now. A friend from the MMOC Leeds club came over last night and we decided the welding work itself was too much to take on and not worth it unless I could weld myself!

We found the engine was a changed one and a 1098cc with matching gearbox as it had ribbed casing. I'm learning as I go!

Anyway we culdn't get a spark to the plugs again and suspect it is the distributor cap. I also tried to do the igntion timing following the haynes manual and found when compression built on cylinder 1 the recess in the pulley was nowhere near the timing mark and the rotor arm was pointing to towards cylinder 4 when it should be towards cylinder 1. Anyway I will be selling it now and someone with experience will surely set it right.