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Posted: Sun May 29, 2005 11:10 am
by ptitterington
Thanks too I have been following this thread with interest.

One question I was wondering about, I have just got hold of a started but never got far project. The wood is pretty sound is it worth grit blasting the whole car wood and all?

Thanks

Posted: Sun May 29, 2005 11:33 am
by chickenjohn
err, no. The best way to restore a traveller is to take the wood off- as there are a few parts that you cannot easily get to with it on.

I have found a quick way of stripping the old varnish off the wood- it worked for me! I used wood bleach and scraped it off (together with the old varnish and discoloured surface) using whats known as a "Scarsten scraper", then sand down the woos and re-varnish/ stain to taste.

Yes, this thread is brilliant, I think someone should summarise the information and put it in a concise form, either on the useful tips, or on a web page.

Posted: Mon May 30, 2005 11:45 am
by Squiggle
Phil asks: As a fairly new Moggy Owner, I am looking for someone in Ayrshire, Scotland who comes recommended and is good value for money...

Me asks: Can anyone personally recommend the same [ie spray work needed] in the Bedford/Northampton/Milton Keynes areas please?

Ta and Happy Bank Holiday!

Squiggle.

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 9:37 am
by ColinP
Having seen the Alfa I'll second Jonathon's comment about sand blasting!

Sand balsting a traveller with the wood on would soon turn it into a traveller without wood on! :wink:

Squiggle, How about JLH? -it's not that far from MK.

Colin

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 10:37 am
by Squiggle
Squiggle, How about JLH? -it's not that far from MK.

Thanks Colin but --- who is JLH?

Can you/anyone recommend him/them?

Squiggle

ps sorry about the previous double posting! :oops:

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 10:41 am
by Cam
Chrissie,

JLH is run by Jonathon (see above posts). I have seen his quality of workmanship up close and if you need more information, PM (or e-mail, or ring me actually!) and I'll give you some more details (more appropriate that way I think).

He's based in Leamington Spa anyway...

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 11:41 am
by ColinP
Squiggle,

PM'ed you.

Colin

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 12:09 pm
by plastic_orange
Here's some before and after shots of panels that went for bead blasting. Bead blasting is possibly the mildest form of blasting, so if this happens with what I thought was sound panels, then be very careful with grit blasting.
Although I have had dozens of parts blasted over the years, I'm forever surprised at the state some arrive back in - it is very hard to judge if your panel is good or not (most early parts are quite good though)
I bought supposedly immaculate doors off of E bay a while back - if you think the 1000 front panel was bad? Still it's only work and money!!!

Cheers

Pete

Panels for Blasting

Image

1000 front panel
Image

Close up 1000 panel - very frilly
Image

Comparison MM panel and 1000 spot the difference!!

Image

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 7:35 pm
by Onne
that front panel needs a hole lot of work...... LOL

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 7:57 pm
by sinky_aps
No, it needs thrown in the bin!!!

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 9:10 pm
by ptitterington
I have had quite a lot of grit blasting done at work(building work) and have been suprised how well oak and even pine stands up to the process. I had presumed that the ash would be pretty hard. I just was not too sure about the aluminium. I have had two tipper bodies blasted, 1 steel and 1 aluminium and the results were excellent and painted up a treat.

Still I dont think Ill risk it.

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 10:43 pm
by plastic_orange
My mate also blasts oak framed homes to clean the wood, but uses special media as wood can stain. You are quite safe blasting heavy gauge metals, but have a go at an unsupported panel and see what you are left with. As I said, just do the underneath, and edges with grit, but use bead blasting for doors, grille, wings etc.

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:00 am
by lowedb
A further question for your opinions:
Etch primer seems to be universally recommended, and I can understand why. However, I was told to use a zinc rich primer, because the high zinc content chemically protects the steel, much like the galvanising on modern cars. So:
1. What do people think of the relative merits
2:Is there such a thging as a zinc rich, etch primer?

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:46 am
by Cam
I was under the impression that the Halfords Zinc primer had some etch in it. Might be wrong, but that's what I thought.

I personally would use the zince for underbody and the etch for top body work. The zinc (that I used, anyway) is a bit 'lumpy' so would have to be flatted a lot before overspraying.

Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:36 am
by chickenjohn
I believe POR15 is etch priming, rust killing and is Zinc rich.

Never used it myself, though.