Morris Minor Owners Club

Dan,

We have the standard mechanical clutch linkage with the 1380 and it works fine. I would try it first before spending out on a hydraulic conversion that might not be any better.

Have heard a number of comments around 'not wise to lower' the car, but ours has been lowered for more than 40 years by around 2", and so long as you cut and reshape the bump stops by about 1", it all works very well. Good dampers, either the standard with SAE40 oil in them or a telescopic conversion (we have Koni's) will stop any crashing over bumps, potholes or speed humps.

I have a midget gearbox and midget fork using mechanical Morris 1098 clutch fitting but can't get the clutch to work any ideas or pictures would be great.

The Midget fork is designed for a hydraulic clutch operation - do you have a conversion fitted? If not then you need to use the Minor fork for a 1098 gearbox and connect it in the standard way.

Thank you For your reply I shall take gearbox out and put minor fork in I guess I should use the midget thrust bearing.

Id go with an electric fan, A series hardly has an abundance of power and you'll not only save space but gain a couple of hp in effiecieny not turning the fan. Heres a pic of mine installed between the grill and radiator.

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I'll photograph my clutch set up as well as I meant to for another thread on hydraulic clutches. Im running a ford gearbox and have installed a hubcentric slave off a mondeo (which doenst help you), but I retro fitted a hydraulic master clinder into a modifed gearbox cross member. Now bare with me, the cross memher I used is one for the ford gearbox but I stole the idea from somebody who had done the same thing to the standard morris cross member and his looked fantastic. You then have a remote reservoir in your engine bay, which makes it nice and easy to service.

Basically what im trying to say, is you can make something yourself with relatviely cheap parts.

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=51485

Dont know if that link will work, but its on this forum under hydraulic clutch. That type of hydraulic master cylinder with remote
costs like £25 for a brembo one of Ebay.

I took my gearbox out, midget 1275 engine midget gearbox put a Morris minor fork and midget thrust bearing. Fitted gearbox used Morris minor clutch pedal, still no clutch, do you need to use a different thrust bearing?

It should work...is it a 1098 fork? And definitely the Spridget carbon thrust? Look inside through one of the rubber plug holes - is the carbon not reaching the pad on the pressure plate?

So I've extended the clutch relay and I have no more adjustment on the Morris mechanical clutch, the clutch is much better but not quite realising the clutch. Do I need a deeper thrust bearing, I have a midget thrust bearing in at the moment.

Yes - you need the deepest thrust bearing... Sorry - I don't know which one it is - you need to compare the possibilities side by side. It's been answered before - you may find it using the search facility... The problem is the fork can only move so far - no matter how much you modify the linkage.

Which clutch do you have fitted? 948, 1098 or 1275?

Okay so I purchased a hydraulic clutch conversion, same result clutch does not quite disengage have the car on jacks and prop shaft still turns and first and reverse crunches when selected so it would appear the clutch is not quite releasing. Any ideas? I have a 1275 engine 1275 gearbox and clutch and morris minor fork.

Help required.

When I had the 1275cc Midget gearbox fitted I ended up bending the Minor mechanical clutch release arm between the pivot pin and the release rod eye to allow the correct operation of the clutch mechanism.
Make sure that you have sufficient clearance where the clutch release arm passes through the gearbox bell housing.
I had to remove some metal from the hole fore and aft to allow sufficient release arm travel.
Without carrying out the above modifications I could not get the clutch to release to my satisfaction.
Once the above was done the clutch released as it should do.

Thank you for your reply which thrust bearing did you use, I have just bent the adjuster rod that passes through the release fork.

Darren
If I remember correctly I used the MG Midget carbon thrust.
Phil

Philthehill what a star you are, after 2 months of messing about, gearbox out change thrust bearing etc found out that I needed to take a couple of mill out of the gearbox where the fork comes throug, I now have a working clutch. Thanks so much for your help, I would not have thought using midget engine midget gearbox and clutch you would have to do that. Cheers.

Well done