1275 Midget motor conversion

[gasolinescream]

A friend of a friend has a rather rotten 1275 Midget that he bought for his daughter. It needs way too much welding and I may be able to lay claim to the running gear and anything else. I'd planned a 1275 conversion so really good timing. I won't be thinking of doing the conversion for a while though will plan what I'll need to do, ready the parts and have everything together, ready to drop in when the times right.

I had planned on using the MG engine and box though retaining my 3.7 ratio rear as told this is better suited to my driving style and needs, I drive like an old man now and will be towing a tiny caravan I will grab the axle and prop as it may be some use in the future but is there anything else on the car worth grabbing that i can use? I'm not buying cheap to sell on, just what I can use.

The MG engine and box are both In good running order and the car drives very well. My current 1098 is fitted with a 1.5" LCB and exhaust which i'll use as well as the Accuspark ignition. My thoughts had been to use an MG Metro inlet and HIF44 carb to rid it of the 2 HS2's. Nothing fancy or mind blowing but a nice little hop up. I do have some questions though.

Now I've been told that this engine and box will drop straight in using the existing Moggy mounts. Is this true?

What propshaft is used, the MG or the Moggy?

What clutch linkage set up do you use?, Moggy Meccano or convert to Hydraulic/Use MG parts?

Is the Speedo drive the same?

Additional work? There's always hidden jobs you don't think about that slow down a build. Is there anything else that requires time and money?

Sorry about all the questions but enquiring minds need to know.

Any advice you may have is gratefully received and very much appreciated

Cheers Dan

[chrisryder]

If you're planning on towing, I'd have suggested using the 3.9 diff out of the midget. But if you just hold onto it, you can always swap it later if you find you need to. No point changing the diff without knowing, and then changing back again at a later date.

You use the minor prop-shaft.

Yes, it does just drop in using the minor mounts.

You can use the standard minor linkages, but it can make for a heavy pedal. The alternative, as you said, is to use midget parts to make it hydraulic, but I don't think you can use the midget master cylinder, as it's part of the pedal box.

The only thing you need to cut is the engine steady bracket that goes onto the back stud of the head. It'll need a notch cutting out of it to clear the heater tap, as it's at a different angle on the 1275.

[chrisryder]

Also, consider what to do with the fan. Some get away fine using the Minor metal blade on the midget engine, but others find it hits the breather canister on the timing chain cover.

Using the plastic midget one clears that, but could be close to the radiator.

The breather canister can be cut down to aid clearance though.

[gasolinescream]

Hi Chris

Thanks for that, doesn't look like too much of a job then really. I think i'd lose the Meccano linkage and go for an Hydraulic set up. I have seen an Hydraulic set up for a Moggy advertised in the Moss book of goodies. It's not cheap and says 1098cc only. Would that be an option, I don't understand the "1098 only" part? Apart from the cost it's a complete kit with no messing about and as everything else is seemingly turning into new parts, a few more won't hurt.
Also you mentioned the fan. Something I have fitted on a few of my previous classics was an manual electric fan. I found in winter leaving it switched off for a short few minutes got the car warmer quicker and i just left it on during summer use. Worked at treat. The ones I've used were very slim, could one of those possibly be used if I had clearance issues with either of them?
Regarding the diff I was going to grab it, well the whole axle actually and have a practice on taking one apart. I've been told it won't fit the Moggy or be of much benefit, don't know how true that is. I'm having the gauges out the MG however would anything else be of use?
As I mentioned the plan was always to obtain and build up and replacement 1275 engine. This car is very soon to be my daily transport and just like any mods i'm doing to it they are all aimed at making a practical classic. Stock exterior and interior, lowered a tad on van rims and radials with a semi-approved upgraded running gear to suit the purpose. Ideally i'd like an engine /box on a stand, painted and dressed up ready to drop in. Also have every damn nut, bolt and widget needed so I can get it done in one hit.
So Chris if I have this right the biggest hurdle to fitting this is sorting out what type of clutch mech to have and obtain? Would be nice if that's my biggest headache.

Thanks again for your help and support. I should have joined here ages ago as everyone has been so helpful and my car has come on leaps and bounds in a matter of no time.

Cheers Dan

[chrisryder]

Not sure why it would be 1098 only. Unless it might not be manly enough for the heavier 1275 clutch.

Other hydraulic kits I've seen on the market don't stipulate that it's 1098 only...

You can go for an electric fan. That's what I've got. A proper Kenlowe one on a thermostat with a manual over-ride though.

The Minor radiator is so big, it's perfectly safe to run without a fan at all, in all weathers... if you could guarantee you'd never get stuck in a traffic jam... where it'll soon warm up. My electric fan hardly ever comes on, only in traffic, or if doing a complicated parking manoeuvre on a hot day!

[chrisryder]

And as for the axle. The axle as a whole won't fit, but the diff can be removed and fitted into the minor casing

[madmoggy]

Does this mean the halfshafts wont fit a moggy casing ?
Sorry to hi jack the thread.

[leyther8008]

Yes they are to short.

[millerman]

Why not do this to clear the breather canister?

[frame][/frame]

[MarkyB]

That's one way millerman. more common to leave the fan alone and cut the front of the cannister and weld a flat plate on it.
Was this your way and if so did you have any problem keeping the fan balanced?

[millerman]

That's one way millerman. more common to leave the fan alone and cut the front of the cannister and weld a flat plate on it.
Was this your way and if so did you have any problem keeping the fan balanced?

It was my way and no problem so far. Both pieces cut out must be the same size so accurate measuring is required. It's not a racing engine therefore accurate balancing is not required and it is easier ans quicker than welding a plate on the cannister

[philthehill]

Why not just space out the fan from the pulley? BMC used to produce a spacer (Pt No: not known) that went between the fan and the pulley. Just make sure that you leave enough room between the fan and radiator so that on braking the engine does not move forward into the radiator.

[millerman]

Why not just space out the fan from the pulley? BMC used to produce a spacer (Pt No: not known) that went between the fan and the pulley. Just make sure that you leave enough room between the fan and radiator so that on braking the engine does not move forward into the radiator.

Keep it simple, a pair of tin snips and a measuring tape and you're in business

[katy]

The canister on ours has a big dent in it to clear the fan, it appears that the PO just took a hammer to it.

[MarkyB]

Blimey, that's a bit harsh. Some people just bend the fan blades to clear

[bmcecosse]

Wise to get rid of the tiny twin SUs...... Keep the mechanical linkage - and just extend one of the arms to increase the leverage ratio..IF you find the pedal loading too high....... The rear axle is too narrow for a Minor......but the steering rack is worth having - for a LHD Minor!!

[gasolinescream]

That's the first positive thing you've replied with to all my posts. It's very clear you do not like modified morris minors from most of your replies to me in other sections and now here. I soon realised many of my first post's discussed upgrades and were not ideally topics for general parts of the forum. I also had pm's off members warning me of your attitude to modifications. I have posted here since in the custom and modified section to avoid such people as I don't want to upset anyone and chat with like minded folks that don't see a servo or gas shocks as the devils work.

I fully respect your knowledge and commitment towards MM's and the fact your a long term member. However will you please keep your negative anti modification comments to yourself whilst i'm posting in this section. I have had nothing but help from Chris and the others here so please keep off my posts telling me everything i'm doing is wrong or not the done thing.

Thank you very much

Regards Dan

[bmcecosse]

Hahahaha - Dan - my Minor is 'modified' and I used to rally a minor that was much modified (for it's time) ...... I made all the mistakes - many of which you are now contemplating, and I merely try to warn 'newcomers' to save them time and money..... Lowering the car is not wise because you need to maintain suspension travel, tele dampers are not necessary unless contemplating competition use - and some of the tele 'kits' on sale these days are worse than useless anyway. Pm me if you want sensible advice on what's good and what's a waste of time and money.......

[philthehill]

Reference the fan spacer mentioned in my post above.
A 7/8" thick fan/water pump spacer is available from Mini Spares Part No PGX 10001 £6.79 inc VAT plus P&P.
There is also a 3/16" spacer again from Mini Spare Part No 12A312 £4.20 inc VAT plus P&P.
Fitting these spacers is so much better and easier than cutting away the flan blades or cutting and welding the timing cover vent.

[gasolinescream]

Sorry BMC that read a little harsh and I appreciate where your coming from. Your advice is important as I came here to learn and to weigh up the pro's and cons when working on my car. I'm still waiting on notification about the 1275 I may have lined up, hopefully very soon.

Regards Dan