Morris Minor Owners Club

The plugs aren't old - I replaced them two years ago and the car has been laid up for a year. The state of them makes me worry about the engine... I didn't replace the dizzy cap or leads previously on the basis of "it ain't broke so don't fix it".

I've just ordered a new dizzy cap, leads, rotor arm and plugs so fingers crossed they might solve the problem.

If you are going to be running the car - they will all be a good investment anyway.

Hi, Catherine
If possible can you send photos around the dizzy (also with the cap off) and the carburater including engine area. You never know it may reveal a few clues.
Roy.

Well, the bits I ordered arrived and there is now a new set of leads, rotor arm and plugs in place - got sent the wrong dizzy cap so that needs to be exchanged - I ordered a side entry one and was sent a top entry instead
Anyway, still nothing happening Fuel pump is ticking away merrily and she turns over but there's no sign of life. Tested for power to the leads and there's nothing there. Could I have done something wrong? I took the dizzy off and replaced each lead one by one to make sure that everything went back in the right place...

Here are some pics as requested, hope they can shed some light:

Engine


Dizzy cap


Dizzy


Old plug

The rotor arm and inside of the cap are minging and it looks like conductive carbon dust from the centre pin.
Give it all a good clean out and see why it's being ground down in that way.

I replaced the rotor arm yesterday so that's now shiny and new, I cleaned the inside of the cap the other day but will give it another go later on. Other than that, what next?

The photos are great,
The spark plug looks like fuel is too rich.
Do you think the gap on the points is well above 15 thou,or should I go back to specsavers.

Roy,

Forgot to mention, A way to check high tension circuit before you fit all the ht leads etc; to the dizzy is as follows:
Remove the ht coil lead from the dizzy,while still connected to the coil. Switch on the ignition and turn engine (starting handle preferred) until contact breaker is closed (points). Flick open the contact lever while the coil high tension lead is held about 3/16inch (using insulated pliers) from engine block. a good spark should be obtained.
I am sure someone else will come along soon and update this method.

good luck.
Roy

MarkyB wrote:The rotor arm and inside of the cap are minging and it looks like conductive carbon dust from the centre pin.
Give it all a good clean out and see why it's being ground down in that way.

+1. Also looks like the distributor bob weights and cam haven't seen an oilcan for years.

Nowt wrong with those plugs that a good clean and gap will sort out. Thousands of miles left in them.

Note you have an Intermotor coil fitted. Is this the correct type for the car, i.e. non-ballast.

izzi wrote:The photos are great,
The spark plug looks like fuel is too rich.
Do you think the gap on the points is well above 15 thou,or should I go back to specsavers.

Roy,

Plug gap should be 25 thou!

Hi, Jowett Javelin
I meant the gap in the photo of the contact breaker, to be 15 thou.
Are those ht leads ok for that distributor with those fitting screws.
Roy.

Aha, which of course is correct!

JOWETTJAVELIN wrote:

MarkyB wrote:The rotor arm and inside of the cap are minging and it looks like conductive carbon dust from the centre pin.
Give it all a good clean out and see why it's being ground down in that way.

+1. Also looks like the distributor bob weights and cam haven't seen an oilcan for years.

Nowt wrong with those plugs that a good clean and gap will sort out. Thousands of miles left in them.

Note you have an Intermotor coil fitted. Is this the correct type for the car, i.e. non-ballast.

As I said, I've cleaned the cap but I'll give it another go over shortly, there is a new one on the way from ESM anyway. What are the bob weights? How can I check why the carbon brush in the cap might be wearing?

The coil is the one that was on the car when I got it - at that time the car was running so there has been no call for me to go anywhere near it.

izzi wrote: Are those ht leads ok for that distributor with those fitting screws.

The orange capped HT leads are the old ones - I replaced them with new ones from ESM last night.

And.....it's running like a dream now???

The bob weights control ignition advance when running.

Just a drop or two of 3 in 1 oil down the side of the cam, then on the screw revealed with the rotor arm off, is all that is needed to keep everything tip-top.

Still nothing

We have:
- replaced dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads and plugs. Cleaned the distributor.

- Checked for power to the coil - it's there.

- Checked for power at the plugs - nothing. There was power to no.2 earlier this week.

- Messed about swapping new and old bits, just in case. Still nothing.

What next?

I haven't read all the posts so forgive me if this is old news

power to the coil but no power to the plugs ,have you tested by substitution / changed the coil?

you seemed to have everything else covered

I don't have a spare coil but I guess ordering one is the next logical step... It just seems odd that there was power from it earlier in the week but not now.

If you get a spark when you flick open the contact lever while the coil high tension lead is held about 3/16inch (using insulated pliers) from engine block.(if you say coil is working), yet no spark at plugs. This would indicate that the ht leads are not connecting properly to the dizzy or plug caps. (surely not the coil at fault if it was ok before)
Roy.

It's never the coil......check for a spark at the king lead from the coil to the dizzy cap, when you flick the points.