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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:48 pm
by linearaudio
ssnjimb wrote:
Sorry, didn't mean to offend you. Just been a long thread (no pun intended) to get to a screw length!!
M8x25 will be available anywhere like Halfords, B&Q etc. Ideally drill the remaining threads out with an 8mm drill first, but you will find the metric bolts will wind through the ally anyway, and pop a nut on the back of each. I've just been and checked the HS2 on my bench, there is sufficient room for the nuts!!
Again, didn't mean to be "uppy"
Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:51 pm
by ssnjimb
its ok
iam very greatfull your your help.
Just the leaking downpipe to exhaust manifold joint to fix as its leaking and fuming us out inside the car
Jamie
Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:52 pm
by linearaudio
bmcecosse wrote:Sounds like a shocking 'bodge' to me
YOU were the one who suggested nuts on the back!!
Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:55 pm
by bmcecosse
I was reacting to the comment in the post from Alec ahead of mine !!!!!!!
Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:57 pm
by linearaudio
ssnjimb wrote:its ok
....Just the leaking downpipe to exhaust manifold joint to fix as its leaking and fuming us out inside the car
Jamie
Good luck with that one- have you read others experiences at trying to "fix" that flange?? Best advice seems to make sure all traces of firegum are removed from all round the manifold part, use a decent two bolt fixing clamp and a little firegum on the joint, and make sure the mounting strap is secure. BUT.... don't expect a permanent fix, unless you are luckier than most!
Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 9:03 pm
by linearaudio
bmcecosse wrote:I was reacting to the comment in the post from Alec ahead of mine !!!!!!!
Aaah- Helicoil threads, as used in the aerospace industry, a bodge?
Sorry I got muddled, and I understand your meaning; really in this instance helicoils are probably not the best solution!! As you so rightly said, nuts and bolts are a perfect engineering answer in this instance!
Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 7:37 am
by Alec
Hello Linearaudio,
the advantage of a helicoil type repair is that it allows the use of one spanner rather than two generally required for a nut and bolt, not to mention the added fiddle of threading a bolt through the filter assembly and then the carburettor body. Yes, it will work even in Metric (extra spanners?).
Air filters are a maintenance item so regularly dismantled. A stud in this instance is a better engineering solution, as it allows the removal of two nuts, the filter cover then the element leaving the main body in place. As I said, the options are there so it's up to Jamie to pick what suits him.
Alec