Wes wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:57 pm
I'm working on the floor with arms out stretched so not sure i can hold a partially filled canister steady enough. But will see how i get on,
Anyway this job really just keeps giving. Came to replace the o-ring/gasket in the housing to discover there isn't/wasn't one !!! also the filter has come with 2 new ones? Its the purolator type arrangement so do i use the thin one or the thicker one? both are the same depth ~3mm
They’re not exactly the same diameter. It’s the one that fits without distortion. The thinner one for Purolator
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:23 pm
I have always partially filled the canister before fitting. I always put the filter in the housing with all the other bits and then fill with oil about two thirds. The oil does not leak out as I make sure the bottom bolt and seal is pressed up tight whilst fitting the canister. It always works for me........
I do the same. To make things easier I jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands. Then I can also do the greasing and adjust the brakes. If I’m just doing an oil change sometimes I use ramps but I’m always scared I might drive off the end of them by accident.
Stephen
I have ramps but didn't expect this to be such a faff! now cant drive on. Suppose you could jack up and slide ramps under?
Wes wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:57 pm
Came to replace the o-ring/gasket in the housing to discover there isn't/wasn't one !!!
Make sure you're right about that, I've had one squashed in so well it appeared not to be there, it was only with a screwdriver I found out I was wrong and it was just rock solid and well wedged down the gap.
Does this mean you're re-using your original parts like the spring etc. ?
I wiped and used copious amounts or solvent and cant see trace of one?
[/quote]
Does this mean you're re-using your original parts like the spring etc. ?
[/quote]
Yep all same parts, for now at least. But with the addition of a new washer between spring and pressure plate, plus a new o-ring between canister and the exterior collar-piece/ring.
les wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 2:01 pm
Glad I’ve got a ‘spin on’ there seems more and more reasons to fit one, hearing all this palaver ————- fit and forget !
Last night got front end on axle stands (should have done this from the off) so was able to properly get under, Yes there was a gasket buried deep in the housing. Yes I was able to partially fill the canister with oil during reassembly without it leaking. Job done.
Wes wrote: ↑Thu Jul 23, 2026 7:14 am
Last night got front end on axle stands (should have done this from the off) so was able to properly get under, Yes there was a gasket buried deep in the housing. Yes I was able to partially fill the canister with oil during reassembly without it leaking. Job done.
Thanks for all your comments/tips/insights.
Well done! You can get a set of picks cheaply that are good for digging out seals like the one in the oil filter head. They look like big dental picks with plastic handles.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Well done! You can get a set of picks cheaply that are good for digging out seals like the one in the oil filter head. They look like big dental picks with plastic handles.
I did the spin-on conversion and had to bend the feed pipe a few mm to nicely fit. Also I used the now redundant blocked-filter-wire for a temperature gauge https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/temperature with the sender in the hole in the block near the thermostat. Plus I now have free control light in the speedometer for a rear fog light or something else.
Finished rescuing a 1967 2-door. Define finished....
Cobbled filter washers aren’t confined to the east side of the pond. I decided while the truck was up on blocks I would change the oil and filter. I had a couple leftover paper filters from the previous truck. When I pulled the filter canister I found no spring and only this homemade top hat replacement. I pulled a complete aluminum canister from a 948 that was a spare from the previous truck project. I was tempted to reuse the old filter o-ring. The one that came with the filter was thinner and shallower. I did mostly prefill the filter.
An odd thing happened while filling with 20W-50. At about the two quart level the oil backed up to the filler neck. It was slow to drain down. I’ve never seen this before. Could it be a sign that the head gasket is installed incorrectly or just the heavier viscosity oil?
I did find the spring in the drain pan. Assembled the aluminum can with the new skinny o-ring and it leaked. Poked around and found a second o-ring in the housing which I removed but used the old steel can and old fat o-ring with the guts from the aluminum can. No leaks now but quite a mess on the driveway. Put the old exhaust pipe back on and it leaks. Waiting for the muffler cement I slopped on to dry. Maybe the Sprite manifold swap is closer than I expected.
59Elva wrote: ↑Tue Aug 11, 2026 10:41 pm
I did find the spring in the drain pan. Assembled the aluminum can with the new skinny o-ring and it leaked. Poked around and found a second o-ring in the housing which I removed but used the old steel can and old fat o-ring with the guts from the aluminum can. No leaks now but quite a mess on the driveway. Put the old exhaust pipe back on and it leaks. Waiting for the muffler cement I slopped on to dry. Maybe the Sprite manifold swap is closer than I expected.
The new paper cartridge oil filters we get here in the UK come with two o-rings in the box. One is for the Purolator and the other is for the Tecalamit filters which actually look very similar. The filter head bolted to the engine is marked in the casting with which type it is.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
I agree with svenedin!
All the parts you require are available from ESM.
All the filter parts are interchangeable so whether you have a Purolator or Tecalomite you can build up the filter canister without any difficulty.
Interested in what you found off putting in the videos you watched relating to converting the cartridge filter to spin on type. It is such an easy job.
Unless the situation has changed recently nothing is available from ESM over on the west side of the pond. That is a big hurdle. Moss doesn’t list very much for the Minor. I have no experience with Old Pharts Parts but his website doesn’t compare to ESM.
Today was supposed to be a simple oil change before lowering the truck to the ground. I thought I had everything at hand. The housing is marked Purolator. I have a spin on adapter on my MGB. Last time I changed the filter the one I took off was no longer listed and no cross reference available. On of the downsides when parts are only listed for OEM applications and a previous owner changes something without documentation.
This running, ready for the road truck has been anything but. Much more of a project that I didn’t plan time for when I bought it.
If you are interested I do have for sale a spare Purolator filter head (with early blocked filter switch - Cooper S type), alloy filter bowl, filter plate, spring, washers, bolt and seals (recommend that they are replaced).
£30 plus postage.
purulator filter assy.jpeg (181.41 KiB) Viewed 2062 times
Thanks Phil,
After pulling out the extra o-ring and swapping in the spare parts I think I have a working filter. My Purolator filter housing is somewhat similar. It has the electrical connection but no corresponding wire in the rewired harness. Besides Im 3500 miles away. I imagine we would face the same customs issues that has stopped ESM shipping to the US.
Bill B
————- fit and forget !