Wes wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:57 pm
I'm working on the floor with arms out stretched so not sure i can hold a partially filled canister steady enough. But will see how i get on,
Anyway this job really just keeps giving. Came to replace the o-ring/gasket in the housing to discover there isn't/wasn't one !!! also the filter has come with 2 new ones? Its the purolator type arrangement so do i use the thin one or the thicker one? both are the same depth ~3mm
They’re not exactly the same diameter. It’s the one that fits without distortion. The thinner one for Purolator
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:23 pm
I have always partially filled the canister before fitting. I always put the filter in the housing with all the other bits and then fill with oil about two thirds. The oil does not leak out as I make sure the bottom bolt and seal is pressed up tight whilst fitting the canister. It always works for me........
I do the same. To make things easier I jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands. Then I can also do the greasing and adjust the brakes. If I’m just doing an oil change sometimes I use ramps but I’m always scared I might drive off the end of them by accident.
Stephen
I have ramps but didn't expect this to be such a faff! now cant drive on. Suppose you could jack up and slide ramps under?
Wes wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:57 pm
Came to replace the o-ring/gasket in the housing to discover there isn't/wasn't one !!!
Make sure you're right about that, I've had one squashed in so well it appeared not to be there, it was only with a screwdriver I found out I was wrong and it was just rock solid and well wedged down the gap.
Does this mean you're re-using your original parts like the spring etc. ?
I wiped and used copious amounts or solvent and cant see trace of one?
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Does this mean you're re-using your original parts like the spring etc. ?
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Yep all same parts, for now at least. But with the addition of a new washer between spring and pressure plate, plus a new o-ring between canister and the exterior collar-piece/ring.
les wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 2:01 pm
Glad I’ve got a ‘spin on’ there seems more and more reasons to fit one, hearing all this palaver ————- fit and forget !
Last night got front end on axle stands (should have done this from the off) so was able to properly get under, Yes there was a gasket buried deep in the housing. Yes I was able to partially fill the canister with oil during reassembly without it leaking. Job done.
Wes wrote: ↑Thu Jul 23, 2026 7:14 am
Last night got front end on axle stands (should have done this from the off) so was able to properly get under, Yes there was a gasket buried deep in the housing. Yes I was able to partially fill the canister with oil during reassembly without it leaking. Job done.
Thanks for all your comments/tips/insights.
Well done! You can get a set of picks cheaply that are good for digging out seals like the one in the oil filter head. They look like big dental picks with plastic handles.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Well done! You can get a set of picks cheaply that are good for digging out seals like the one in the oil filter head. They look like big dental picks with plastic handles.
I did the spin-on conversion and had to bend the feed pipe a few mm to nicely fit. Also I used the now redundant blocked-filter-wire for a temperature gauge https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/temperature with the sender in the hole in the block near the thermostat. Plus I now have free control light in the speedometer for a rear fog light or something else.
Finished rescuing a 1967 2-door. Define finished....