Won't start

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svenedin
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Re: Won't start

Post by svenedin »

Nickol wrote: Tue Feb 17, 2026 3:07 pm In light of suggestions made I had a good rummel with the setting of the needle jet.

I found that that freeing the choke mechanism connection to the fuel line made for smooth piston movement. When connected, the fuel line was apparantly slightly twisted which then led to a small but noticable reluctance of the piston to freely fall. Easily solved by undoing the connection to the fuel chamber to loosen and untwist the fuel line and then retighten.

But, and this is a bit strange.

When I put the dashpot cover in position, with the new spring installed everything works ok, (i.e. the piston falls freely) until I finally tighten the two holding screws. Then the piston jams. Finger tight is fine, the dashpot cover is fully home and the difference between a tight screw and a finger tight one is very minor. What can it be?
The jet guide is not correctly centred

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

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Re: Won't start

Post by Nickol »

OK, try again.....
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Re: Won't start

Post by Nickol »

Good advice taken up and the piston moves now quite freely and the Carb is mounted in the car again. The trick seems to be to disconnect the arm from the choke mechanism to the sliding "tube" in order the allow the AN needle to move more freely once the holding nut is loosened. Once that is obtained ( which happens quite quickly ) the holding nut may be progressivly tightened whilst all the time moving the piston up and letting it fall, until the nut is in its final tight position and the choke mechanism reconnected again. Final check - yes, still freely falling.

I read somewhere in the forum about the coil and its connections so whilst buried unter the bonnet I noticed that I (nobody to blame but myself) have connection the wires the wrong way around. The feed from the fuse box terminal A3 should go to the positive terminal of the coil. It does not. It has been like that for some time now, and again I remember reading in the forum that "..the engine will run but..."

Could this be the reason all along why the engine was difficult to start when cold? We may find out.
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Re: Won't start

Post by myoldjalopy »

"The feed from the fuse box terminal A3 should go to the positive terminal of the coil."
Yes, assuming that your car is negative earth......
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Re: Won't start

Post by geoberni »

Nickol wrote: Tue Feb 24, 2026 1:11 pm
I read somewhere in the forum about the coil and its connections so whilst buried unter the bonnet I noticed that I (nobody to blame but myself) have connection the wires the wrong way around. The feed from the fuse box terminal A3 should go to the positive terminal of the coil. It does not. It has been like that for some time now, and again I remember reading in the forum that "..the engine will run but..."

Could this be the reason all along why the engine was difficult to start when cold? We may find out.
Is your car Positive or Negative Earth?

You were likely thinking of a post I made almost 7 years ago :o :o ...
https://board.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=70183
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Re: Won't start

Post by Nickol »

1969 Traveller neg Earth

-...and yes, that was the thread - thanks
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Re: Won't start

Post by mike1864 »

What worried me about that thread was that you can't know whether a coil marked CB and SW was from the era when positive earth was the norm.So these markings tell you nothing.
Presumably a DVM with sufficient resolution should indicate which of the LT terminals is connected to the HT winding. One path might be 10,000 ohms; the other 10,003.
But does this help? Does this common point go to the supply or the points?
I assume the pencil test is the final arbiter (I must try it one day!)
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Re: Won't start

Post by geoberni »

mike1864 wrote: Wed Feb 25, 2026 10:25 am What worried me about that thread was that you can't know whether a coil marked CB and SW was from the era when positive earth was the norm.So these markings tell you nothing.
Presumably a DVM with sufficient resolution should indicate which of the LT terminals is connected to the HT winding. One path might be 10,000 ohms; the other 10,003.
But does this help? Does this common point go to the supply or the points?
I assume the pencil test is the final arbiter (I must try it one day!)
I have a pdf copy of the Lucas late 1950s Technical Correspondence Course manual.
It's a bit confusing to follow, especially when they talk about the reasons for changing from Neg Earth to Pos Earth circa 1936, but how
....special coils are available for use on negative earth systems, such coils being connected internally to give a similar spark polarity to those used with the positive earth system.
What they meant was that due to marking all coils with SW/CB, rather than +/-, that had to connect the internals to the terminals in the opposite sense. :roll:
So in theory, if it's marked SW/CB it was intended to be used on Positive Earth, unless it has Negative Earth marked on it, or it's older than the mid 1930's... And that only applies to coils of UK manufacture :roll:

If you compare the illustration from the Lucas Manual (on left) the internals are the same electrical layout as the more modern illustration (on Right).
The internal Primary and Secondary Coils are in series between one low tension connection and the High Tension output. The second low tension connection, to the points, is always connected to the mid point between the Primary and Secondary Coils.
So you're right, if measuring between the HT and either LT terminal, you're only going to see about 3 Ohm difference, which can be extremely difficult when some modern coils have a secondary winding of several hundred Kilo Ohms .
Coil comparison.JPG
Coil comparison.JPG (66.72 KiB) Viewed 57103 times
I did the pencil test to confirm that Basil's connections were incorrect some years back. You have to make sure it's a soft pencil, like an HB, to make it easier to see.
This is a freeze frame from a recent video, so not brilliant quality, but you can see the thin blue spark from the lead on the left (a bolt in the lead cap to extend it out) then from the pencil a much broader spark as it pulls carbon with it on the right.
Pencil test.JPG
Pencil test.JPG (10.18 KiB) Viewed 57103 times
(Edited to correct a couple of typos I noticed. I really should stop myself reading my own posts hours after I post them....)
Last edited by geoberni on Thu Feb 26, 2026 5:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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svenedin
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Re: Won't start

Post by svenedin »

mike1864 wrote: Wed Feb 25, 2026 10:25 am What worried me about that thread was that you can't know whether a coil marked CB and SW was from the era when positive earth was the norm.So these markings tell you nothing.
Presumably a DVM with sufficient resolution should indicate which of the LT terminals is connected to the HT winding. One path might be 10,000 ohms; the other 10,003.
But does this help? Does this common point go to the supply or the points?
I assume the pencil test is the final arbiter (I must try it one day!)
Fortunately, there are good quality modern coils which are marked + and - so you don't have to use an old coil with ambiguous markings if you don't want to.

Pertronix coils are excellent and are recommended by Distributor Doctor. There are oil-filled or resin filled versions available. Oil-filled is better at cooling the coil and so is recommended in performance applications (unmodified Minors are not performance cars!). Resin filled coils are more resistant to vibration and so well suited to above dynamo mounting. Or, the Green Spark Plug Co (which is excellent for ignition components and all manner of other things) sells Remax oil-filled coils which are made in England. The Remax ES3 (Lucas DLB105 equivalent) is an excellent 2.9 Ohm sports coil for push fit king lead or ES5 is a standard 2.955 Ohm coil (Lucas DLB101 equivalent).

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Re: Won't start

Post by mike1864 »

Aside from whether the secondary is commoned with the CB or SW terminal, is there not another variable?
Can the secondary be designed and wound in two alternative directions versus the primary. This would add another possible reversal the final spark.
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Re: Won't start

Post by geoberni »

mike1864 wrote: Fri Feb 27, 2026 4:21 pm Aside from whether the secondary is commoned with the CB or SW terminal, is there not another variable?
Can the secondary be designed and wound in two alternative directions versus the primary. This would add another possible reversal the final spark.
Quite honestly, that might be the case, but I've had my brain scrambled by trying to make sense out of the relevant paragraphs in the Lucas Manual and don't want to give it any more thought. :o
This is the page out of the 1950s Lucas Technical Course manual.

The first para...
Coils are normally wound to give a positive earth spark.....We usually refer to this as a 'negative spark'.
Then they claim that it requires 10% lest voltage to jump from Ground to the Centre Electrode, whereas now experts say that is up to 20% less efficient and damages the plugs due to overheating.... :roll:
I know when I investigated Basil's Ign problems and eventually found the reversed Spark, the plugs I changed, which under a couple of 1000 miles usage and should have been effectively Zero ohms top to bottom, were random resistance readings between 20 and 150 Ohms, presumably from heat damage.

On the diagrams of the distributor, they illustrate that the sparks are jumping back to the Coil with a 'negative spark' otherwise the Rotor Arm is depositing metal onto the plug connections...
They are intentionally 'pulling' the spark energy back to the Coil.
.
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Re: Won't start

Post by mike1864 »

Ah yes, the auto-transformer effect too.
Add to which, electrons flow (or sidle?) in the opposite direction to conventional current flow, and my brain joins Berni's in the omelette :-?
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Re: Won't start

Post by geoberni »

mike1864 wrote: Sat Feb 28, 2026 2:15 pm Ah yes, the auto-transformer effect too.
Add to which, electrons flow (or sidle?) in the opposite direction to conventional current flow, and my brain joins Berni's in the omelette :-?
It was the increasing awareness of the 'electron flow' which eventually made them realise that the Positive earth was not all they hoped it would be. The flow of electrons apparently upset the metalwork at the atomic level, manufacturer's began to notice that bodywork engines etc began to rust more.
A few years back I found a document on an Australian Rolls Royce Owners website, citing an early 1960s Technical Notice, saying that they were finding increased 'iron oxide sludge' in the engine cooling system. Basically a significant increase in rusty particles in the radiators.
That was when they switched back to Negative Earth.

Unfortunately that website has recently been updated and lost all the old technical notice stuff that was there...

:roll: :roll:
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Re: Won't start

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geoberni wrote: Sat Feb 28, 2026 4:23 pm
mike1864 wrote: Sat Feb 28, 2026 2:15 pm Ah yes, the auto-transformer effect too.
Add to which, electrons flow (or sidle?) in the opposite direction to conventional current flow, and my brain joins Berni's in the omelette :-?
It was the increasing awareness of the 'electron flow' which eventually made them realise that the Positive earth was not all they hoped it would be. The flow of electrons apparently upset the metalwork at the atomic level, manufacturer's began to notice that bodywork engines etc began to rust more.
A few years back I found a document on an Australian Rolls Royce Owners website, citing an early 1960s Technical Notice, saying that they were finding increased 'iron oxide sludge' in the engine cooling system. Basically a significant increase in rusty particles in the radiators.
That was when they switched back to Negative Earth.

Unfortunately that website has recently been updated and lost all the old technical notice stuff that was there...

:roll: :roll:
Yes that has always interested me, the various arguments for and against positive earth. As a person of a cynical disposition, I am not convinced that the switch to negative earth was to reduce car body corrosion. Commercial sense would dictate the opposite; faster rusting cars means more cars sold.......Various people in the classic car restoration business have told me that cars they see that have retained positive earth stay in far better condition than those that have been converted to negative earth. Clearly, this is merely anecdotal evidence and not scientific evidence. Take it was you will, but I for one will not change from positive earth!

Regarding Berni's comment about sludge in the cooling system in positive earth vehicles, yes I had noticed that my cooling system was very prone to that but since I switched to using de-ionised water instead of tap water in the cooling system this has very drastically reduced and the coolant remains sludge free. I assume that the reason for this is that the tap water (which where I live is very hard and so has a lot of calcium and magnesium ions in it) was acting like an electrolyte but this is much reduced with the de-ionised water.

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Re: Won't start

Post by Nickol »

Am happy to report that even after the winter hibernation and after cleaning the carb, the engine started first time this morning. :D :tu1:

I suspect the incorrectly wired coil was the cause of poor starting from cold before. The throttle cable does stick however and does not easily free itself for normal idling speed so have oiled it and see how it responds.
Typical winter lay off symtom, one of the rear brakes is binding ( can feel how warm the wheel is after a short run) . Hub cap off, hit with a hammer and try again later. If unsuccessful, wheel will have to come off.
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Re: Won't start

Post by ndevans »

I understood that the car body corrosion issue was more due to old rubber insulation which tended to break down after a few years, and enhanced the electroltyic effect of corrosion cells. Decent plastic insulation renders +ve earth obsolete.
cheers N

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Re: Won't start

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Out for a 10km test drive yesterday to prove the brakes. Just 100m from home at a t junction the engine stalled and would not restart. The fuel pump appeared to be silent so removed the fuel line to the carb, tested it ok, put it back and then restarted no problem.

The old adage, if it ain't broke don't fix it. But I have wanted to renew the points and condensor which I got from Dist doctor a few weeks ago, Did this and the motor will not restart. I have the distributor on the bench now as it is easier to work on. I do not understand why as there appears to be no shorting of the condensor and LT lead but the continuity test fails. i.e. there must be a break in the insulation somewhere. Whether the points are open or closed, the multimeter indicates a circuit. This cannot be and would certainly explain why the car does not start.

Another thing

According to Haynes, with the ignition on I should get 12V on the coil +ve terminal ( neg earth car) . I do, but not 12,8 as per the battery itself but only about 12,0. The other -ive terminal, which feeds the LT distributor reads much much lower, about3v . Is this right?
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Re: Won't start

Post by svenedin »

Are you sure you have fitted the points correctly? It is absolutely vital that they are connected properly or there will be continuity whether the points are open or closed. I suspect you have an insulating washer in the wrong place. See this:

https://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/points.htm

Or perhaps the insulation has failed on the low-tension wire from the coil to distributor and is shorting to earth in the distributor?

Also be aware that new points have often been given a coating to prevent oxidation in storage. It is a good idea to clean the contacts with isopropyl alcohol (switch cleaner) or petrol. Gin will do! :lol:

Then set the points gap correctly.

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Re: Won't start

Post by myoldjalopy »

Hmmmm...."the engine stalled and would not restart" - but this was before fitting the new points and condensor, and there have been intermittent problems before, so the current starting problem may not be due to the new components. However, as Stephen suggests, it is well worth checking the points installation. The DD points have two fibre washers, one on the pivot post under the contact breaker lever, and another, smaller one on the contact plate pin under the contact spring. Then on top the spring come the LT and condensor leads and, finally, the plastic insulator, metal washer and nut.
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Re: Won't start

Post by svenedin »

myoldjalopy wrote: Sat Apr 04, 2026 7:20 pm Hmmmm...."the engine stalled and would not restart" - but this was before fitting the new points and condensor, and there have been intermittent problems before, so the current starting problem may not be due to the new components. However, as Stephen suggests, it is well worth checking the points installation. The DD points have two fibre washers, one on the pivot post under the contact breaker lever, and another, smaller one on the contact plate pin under the contact spring. Then on top the spring come the LT and condensor leads and, finally, the plastic insulator, metal washer and nut.
Yes there could be the original problem and a new problem......

Or the original problem is still the current problem....

Worth checking the low tension lead. It can short on the distributor baseplate if the insulation has broken down.

For illustration: https://www.holden.co.uk/p/low_tension_ ... _connector

Stephen
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