Torsion bars

Post by **Big Jim** » Sat May 28, 2016 6:40 pm

I have read everything I can about these but cannot get my head round it . My car is on its side and I am trying to get it back together . The back end is loosely bolted together in the same position as before , the front is part dismantled . If you can see on the foot this is as close as I can get to realigning the front . I obviously have something wrong . While it's loos should I free up the spine at the back and grease it ?

Thanks Jim

Post by **panky** » Sat May 28, 2016 6:57 pm

You will struggle to get it back together while it's on it's side, you need the weight of the car with, engine in place, to be able load the torsion bar against it.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat May 28, 2016 7:22 pm

Leave the rear end alone. You could mess about with a ratchet strap - but quite a bit of danger. I wouldn't. Move the front arm round on the splines till you get it on the kingpin - then when it's back on the ground you can reset the height properly once the engine is in. You do have the rebound stop removed I assume?

Post by **Big Jim** » Sat May 28, 2016 9:06 pm

Am I being a bit dense here ? When the car is back on the ground won't the hub be pushed upwards and further away from the arm ? Oh and no , I hadn't removed the rebound stop , I now have and I think with a small struggle I will be able to get it back together as it is . When I bought the car it had a front need list , so it will need to be adjusted .
Thanks Jim

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat May 28, 2016 9:56 pm

If you've got it on -good ! With car on ground - you put a jack under the front arm and lift it up till it meets the floppy kingpin...... But you do need weight in the car to do that - fat mates would do .....

Post by **volrod544** » Mon May 30, 2016 8:39 pm

My moggy is on its side and i use this simple tool when i am fitting my torsion bars -[frame]

[/frame]
fits on the arm like this -[frame]

[/frame]

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon May 30, 2016 9:43 pm

Well - if you like welding! I guess you have the chassis legs to renew.......

Post by **Big Jim** » Mon May 30, 2016 9:47 pm

Handy tool . It's fortunate you can weld

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon May 30, 2016 10:05 pm

A large adjustable pipe wrench hooked over the arm would do the same job - but with the rebound stop removed, there really should be no need.

Post by **don58van** » Mon May 30, 2016 11:05 pm

A large adjustable pipe wrench hooked over the arm would do the same job

I bought a large pipe wrench for this purpose and it works well. Care is needed is of course, as there is a risk of injury if you let the arm snap back while under torsion.

Don

Post by **Mark Wilson** » Tue May 31, 2016 9:27 am

bmcecosse wrote:Well - if you like welding! I guess you have the chassis legs to renew.......

Roy - if you look at Volrod's attention to detail on fabricating his floor pans, I don't think we need to worry about him spotting the chassis legs

http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1422181174_20405

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... an#p544654

Post by **Big Jim** » Thu Jun 02, 2016 7:59 am

I have put it all back together after fitting a new 1/2 chassis leg . The torsion bar is very tight . Should there be any "end float" on the torsion bar ends?
Thanks

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Jun 02, 2016 10:55 am

No! Should be held firmly. By the stepped and U washers at the rear and firmly locked to the eye bolt at the front .

Post by **philthehill** » Thu Jun 02, 2016 10:57 am

There should be no fore and aft float as regards the torsion bar.
The torsion bar is and should be locked into the cross member at its rear end.
Have you fitted all of the parts at the rear end of the torsion bar where it engages with the cross member?
Is the torsion bar and stepped washer properly engaged into the cross member?
See link for details:
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... 93df3.html

Phil

Post by **Big Jim** » Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:46 pm

Thank you.
It seems ok then all locked up tight .
Jim

Post by **philthehill** » Thu Jun 02, 2016 3:27 pm

What I have found of benefit is to ditch the horseshoe washer (Pt No: AAA1484 (MOSS)) and replace it with the stepped washer (Pt No: AAA1485 (MOSS)).
It means that you have a stepped washer either side of the cross member which gives a much better location / hold for the torsion bar.
What I have also found is that the junction between the part of the washer that goes through the cross member and the face of the washer that butts against the cross member vertical face is not always a proper right angle (mainly on repro parts) but curved which does not allow the stepped washer to fit properly and seat into the cross member hole - the root of the angle may require to be cleaned up in the lathe.
The reason for fitting the stepped washer and the horseshoe washer was to enable the torsion bar to be drawn through the cross member for removal. Unless you have the torsion bar free where it fits into the lower suspension arm at the front and the reaction arm at the rear there is little chance that the torsion bar can or could be drawn rearwards.
Anyway food for thought.
Phil

Morris Minor Owners Club

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