Boot Seal

Post by **alanworland** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:52 pm

I had a bit grief with my replacement boot seal (stuck to boot lid) where it kept coming away from the corners - at some stage I cut it and from then on it was too short! (seemed the right thing to do at the time?)
Anyway I got another from ESM and fitted it today, sticking it to the lid with a contact adhesive. It was a little thicker than the one that come off and as a result the lid is difficult to close. I have slackened the adjuster and shut the lid in the hope I can, after its squashed a bit, re- adjust it to its correct position.
The old seal was 7mm thick, the new one 9.5mm!
Is this a common problem? I would like to get a thinner seal or if not, from a material which is less dense and hence softer.

Post by **ASL642** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:57 pm

Yes! they take a bit of time to settle in - had the same trouble with the traveller rear door seals.

Post by **LouiseM** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 6:39 pm

It seems there have been a few problems recently with boot seals being too hard. Perhaps a manufacturing problem?:

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... ic&t=22792

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... =boot+seal

Post by **alanworland** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:42 pm

I think I shall be contacting the suppliers! Not happy

Post by **mike.perry** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:55 pm

To those who replied to Alan's comments, note that the Series MM boot lid rubber is different to the rest in that it attaches to the boot lid not the surround. (I think I got that the right way round)

Post by **DAVIDMCCULLOUGH** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:57 pm

Your Minor should have the boot seal that fits to the body not the lid, I also use these on the newer saloons as they fit much better.
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 521c6c91e6

Post by **alanworland** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 11:31 pm

I have only ever known my car with the seal fitted to the boot lid?
Are you suggesting then Mike that the seal that fits to the MM boot lid is different to the later ones? the one that I have now cut too short is quite a bit thinner (2.5mm) and did give a nice 'closing feel'!
or would it be better to fit the boot surround type?

Post by **mike.perry** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:56 pm

Ignore my earlier comments. The Series MM seal was on the surround and the later seals were on the lid.

Post by **alanworland** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:08 pm

After a bit of a moan to ESM I nw have another boot seal (stick to lid) which seems softer and not so thick.
Stuck it on with contact adhesive and it seems fine allowing the boot lid to close flush with the body outline - result!
Mike, I know it looks like it should have the other type of seal, but I have only known a seal stuck to the lid for the past 39 years and before that it was owned by my uncle who is only aware of a seal stuck to the lid! - strange?

Post by **mike.perry** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:35 pm

If the seal on the boot lid works then that is great. When I had a new seal fitted to my boot lid I could not get it to stick so I fitted a new one on the surround.

Post by **wimor** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:23 pm

Hello guys,

During assembling the boot aperture panel of my MM I saw a difference between the existing and new panel. It concerns the place to mount the sealing rubber. In the existing panel the visible edge of the place is sharp bending, while the new one is round bend. On the pictures you see the difference.

I have ordered part nr. RP 150 A by EMS because, I thought it was the best quality. But now I know that part nr. RP 150 better suits with the existing panel.

I hope it helps.

Post by **Squeezebox** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 4:55 pm

I just belatedly noticed this thread, last weekend I replaced the boot seal on my MM, it was stuck to the boot lid and I was advised by Bath Morris Minor Centre to use THIXOFIX contact adhesive. This comes in an orange and white tin and can be branded DUNLOP or ALPHA. A small tin is about £7.00 so it's not cheap, but it works. Coat both mating surfaces, let it dry for about 10 minutes and it sticks with no fuss. I got mine from a local DIY store after drawing a blank in places like B&Q. It would be good for fixing sound deadening material and things like that too.

Maybe a bit late, but hope the info is of use.

Post by **alanworland** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:48 pm

Better late than never! I stuck mine with UHU glue, and so far it has stayed on.