Whiney noise
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
Whiney noise
Hi everyone.
We went out today for a day out in the country. When we were nearly there we noticed that there was a loud whiney noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear but not in fourth. There was also the occasional rattle which sounded a bit like a couple of loose nuts in a tin can.
Molly the mog drove fine though but I was a bit worried that something major might fail.
Does anyone know what this might be?
Thanks a lot!
Kate
We went out today for a day out in the country. When we were nearly there we noticed that there was a loud whiney noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear but not in fourth. There was also the occasional rattle which sounded a bit like a couple of loose nuts in a tin can.
Molly the mog drove fine though but I was a bit worried that something major might fail.
Does anyone know what this might be?
Thanks a lot!
Kate
[sig]9631[/sig]
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3798
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:46 am
- Location: Burnley
- MMOC Member: No
It's the gearbox oil level you need to check. There is a rubber bung on the left hand side of the transmission tunnel, near the gearstick. Under there is a plug. Unscrew that and check that the oil is up to the level of the bottom of the threads. If you need to top it up, use ordinary 20-50 engine oil.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 845
- Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 11:56 am
- Location: Pantymwyn, Flintshire, Wales
- MMOC Member: No
When you top up your gearbox, try to ensure that you are doing it on level ground or you may end up with a false reading.
Its also worth looking at the underside of the car near the point where the drive-shaft connects to the gearbox, you are looking for a stripe of oil at right-angles to the shaft (where it has been spun off while the car is in motion)
If after refilling the stripe gets worse then you may need a new oil seal ... its also worth noting the oil seal may have been caused to fail by damaged bearings in the gearbox - if this is the case a new seal may not last long.
Its also worth looking at the underside of the car near the point where the drive-shaft connects to the gearbox, you are looking for a stripe of oil at right-angles to the shaft (where it has been spun off while the car is in motion)
If after refilling the stripe gets worse then you may need a new oil seal ... its also worth noting the oil seal may have been caused to fail by damaged bearings in the gearbox - if this is the case a new seal may not last long.
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2528
- Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 4:06 pm
- Location: stalbans
- MMOC Member: No
Factory recommended 20/50, same as the engine, as did all workshop manuals until the end of production. I'd stick with that, for peace of mind.bmcecosse wrote:Lack of oil is the most likely explanation. But if it's been run like that for a while - there may now be some damage to the box. I would drain it off - and refill with new oil - 20/50 or 10/40 is fine.
a
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3010
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:42 pm
- Location: Whiteabbey, Co Antrim
- MMOC Member: Yes
What the factory ' recommended' was engine oil - Sae 30 or maybe 40! I don't remember 20/50 being around in thise days. So - correctly - that is what should be put in the gearbox. Now 20/50 oil is actually more '20' grade at the working temp in a gearbox - it only goes to '50' in the heat of the engine, which the gearbox should not reach. The thinner 10/40 oil will give better fuel consumption (less churning loses) but the 20/50 will suit a worn box rather better, although a straight sae 30 oil will be better still!



-
- Moderator
- Posts: 7679
- Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 2:55 pm
- Location: LEAMINGTON SPA
- MMOC Member: No
A straight SAE 30 oil is EXTREMELY unlikely to be better than a modern multigrade. The difference in a gearbox will be minimal as the temperature range is likely -15°C to +50°C so not nearly as large as an engine.although a straight sae 30 oil will be better still!
However the multigrade maintains a much more stable viscosity over the temperature range, therefore is far more suitable. (e.g. doesn't turn to treacle at -15°C)
Added to that, a modern oil is engineered with low friction additives and life increasing additives. An SAE 30 oil is unlikely to be anywhere near as good. Half the additives in a modern oil will be wasted in a gearbox as the gearbox doesn't need the anti varnish properties or the carbon suspension additives - but that's inconsequential.
When you can get a very high spec 15-40 for £7 a gallon (ignore brand names and go for the spec levels) it's not really worth economising IMHO.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

- d_harris
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 4388
- Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 3:52 pm
- Location: Sunny Brighton
- MMOC Member: No
Its what I use too, a lot of folk will say that its no good as its re-cycled. But my view is that a) its still better than anything that was around when these engines were designed b) if it wasn't fit for purpose they wouldn't sell it.
I've used it in the fiesta as well, as that burns nearly as much oil as fuel.....
I've used it in the fiesta as well, as that burns nearly as much oil as fuel.....
I stand corrected - spec from 1960 (the earliest I have to hand) was summer SAE 30, winter SAE 20. Bigger numbers are recommended for worn engines.bmcecosse wrote:Ray - I agree completely with what you say - but Andrew suggested that 20W50 was the 'factory ' spec - and it was not!
Yes - ASDA 20W50 is fine. I use in engine and box.
Sorry 'bout that.
a