Morris Minor Owners Club

Well, sausage fingers here got his hands on the gearbox filler plug. Frankly I couldn't tell you if it was already stripped and didn't notice before, but it's definitely not going back in straight. Oops. It *is* in there, and it's secure. Consequently wondering two things: 1) Do I need to be very wo...

Very late update to this, but exactly as Steven says, anyone reading this in future -- get a clutch from Precision Clutch Components. There was no oil leak in my vehicle. The clutch was simply made of cheddar. Save yourself the cost of getting the clutch done twice!! Maddeningly bad quality on the p...

Hi all, I have some clonking from the offside torsion bar. I've noticed two nuts immediately adjacent to the torsion bar on the box frame jutting out and just touching the bar. The bolts are roughly along the same line as the clutch. Just wondering if anyone knows if those are normal, or if they are...

Hi all, I recently replaced the clutch on my 948cc 1960 car - fine for a couple of weeks then started slipping! Either oil leak or clutch made of cheese as all adjustments ok. Either way new one needed. I previously went with a new Borg & Beck type but understand (painfully in retrospect) these ...

Is it a standard Morris 1000 wiper motor, Lucas DR3a? The usual reason for wipers giving up in the way you describe is that the motor overheated due to having to operate with thickened old grease inside the gearbox part of the motor and/or a seized or partly seized wiper wheel box spindle. But I ag...

Hi all, just shooting off a shot in the dark in case anyone has some wisdom about it. Doris' wipers failed today and no amount of staring at the button or pushing it in and out made them work again. I set off in light rain. The car had been sat in a light shower for an hour or two. The wiper worked ...

Quick update for anyone browsing in the future who sets out to do the same job. I purchased tie end rod ball joint assemblies (a pack of two) from ESM Morris Minors. They were same size as the old ones in the car, and did have grease nipples. It's the sort of job that takes ten minutes if you have t...

Thanks all. To put it in terms my economically sized brain can understand - I'll check the big rod that the tie rod end goes on to check if it's also bent

I don't know how that got bent but, assuming all else is good, you need a new tie rod/track rod end. ESM sell them, but two types - one for pre-1958 and one for post-1958 cars. From your pic, I guess your car is probably a post-1958 vehicle. See the selection here: https://www.morrisminorspares.com...

Hi all. My left hand tie rod is apparently bent. Glad I caught it... See pictures below. Strangely neither side have a grease nipples. Does anyone have any tips on exactly what I could get as replacement parts? Thanks!

Thanks very much for your advice, all. I'll see if the Bristol club is doing a maintenance day any time soon, and ask around for tips (and possibly cranes, if anyone is willing).

As for dropping it vs engine out... Always happy to take the easier way!!

Surprised to hear it's more of a faff to drop the gearbox out alone than taking out the engine. No cranes or hoists here, unfortunately... Just ramps, new parts and elbow grease. Could make it unrealistic to attempt? Thanks for the advice so far.

Hi all. Doris, 948cc, needs a new clutch. She's reached the end of the adjustment rod and the clutch itself makes a bit of noise during operation after getting heated up. Can anyone point me towards good guides for dropping the gearbox and installing a replacement clutch? I wouldn't particularly wan...

Thanks for your thoughts all, much appreciated. Pretty much echoed my own meditations.

Hello all. I'm snooping for advice on a car for sale - GDU470D. The upper body and interior are excellent, but dealer has some pictures with a lot of underseal and some suspiciously abundant welding. Welding seems blobby to me. No history, no MOT since 2022. Anyone here have any advice? I am conside...

Thanks for your help all. One more thing checked off the list. For anyone else reading this in the future new to the task: the only complication I found was removing the split pin end assembly because I had to replace the number eight screw and nut. Even that wasn't particularly difficult at all - j...

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Sat Jan 18, 2025 12:04 am Yes reset the valve clearance, it maybe worth checking aĺl whilst the valve cover is off.

Thanks Bill! What about the adjusting screw itself? Is it possible to just extract it after taking the locking nut off? One of mine is quite chewed up and would probably like replacing.

Hello all. Hopefully a straightforward one: to replace a threaded locknut on the rocker adjustment screw, do I need to do anything more involved than simply unscrewing it and popping a new one on?

Thanks!

It was the head gasket, a straightforward failure between the first two rings. Took me a while but it's all sorted now. I did let the mechanics do it, seeing as we know a few good old boys familiar with the A Series. At this point I'm quite optimistic that nothing else should be wrong, but I will ke...

Thanks all. I do have a fair notion it being the head gasket, but I'm not about to take its head off myself - simple job it may be but, on reflection, I've decided to let the garage have a go. It's the sort of job I'd like to do with someone around who's done it themselves before. Knowing me I'd put...