Tie Rod End Bent

[mogdobz]

Hi all. My left hand tie rod is apparently bent. Glad I caught it... See pictures below. Strangely neither side have a grease nipples. Does anyone have any tips on exactly what I could get as replacement parts? Thanks!

20250823_134157.jpg (785.28 KiB) Viewed 3564 times

20250823_134149.jpg (644.62 KiB) Viewed 3564 times

[myoldjalopy]

I don't know how that got bent but, assuming all else is good, you need a new tie rod/track rod end. ESM sell them, but two types - one for pre-1958 and one for post-1958 cars. From your pic, I guess your car is probably a post-1958 vehicle.
See the selection here: https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/tie-rod

[mogdobz]

I don't know how that got bent but, assuming all else is good, you need a new tie rod/track rod end. ESM sell them, but two types - one for pre-1958 and one for post-1958 cars. From your pic, I guess your car is probably a post-1958 vehicle.
See the selection here: https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/tie-rod

Thanks very much for that. Yes, it's a 1960 car.

Good question though. Does anyone have any ideas how this might have happened? This vehicle is new to me, so I first found this issue today whilst checking the vital parts.

Edit: just did some research and it's likely enough to be a lot of wear and tear, and/or a huge pothole or twenty. I suppose I'll whack some new ones in and realign the steering.

[svenedin]

I don't know how that got bent but, assuming all else is good, you need a new tie rod/track rod end. ESM sell them, but two types - one for pre-1958 and one for post-1958 cars. From your pic, I guess your car is probably a post-1958 vehicle.
See the selection here: https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/tie-rod

Thanks very much for that. Yes, it's a 1960 car.

Good question though. Does anyone have any ideas how this might have happened? This vehicle is new to me, so I first found this issue today whilst checking the vital parts.

Possibly whacking the wheel into the kerb whilst on full lock. The new track rod ends from ESM are sealed for life and do not have a grease nipple.

Stephen

[Bill_qaz]

Maybe just structurally weakened by corrosion, the torn boot will of allowing water ingress, so could corroding from the inside. You may even find its cracked when you remove it.Or bungled tie down on a trailer using it as a tie down point

I found my replacements had longer distance from pivot centre to end of threads, so screwing new one the same number of turns does not maintain tracking. I needed to thoroughly clean thread to allow locking nut to back off sufficiently to accommodate longer body of new one.
viewtopic.php?t=76434

[philthehill]

First you need to determine if the L/H tie rod is bent.
From your photos it does not look bent.
To do that put the steering on full right hand lock. Remove the track rod end, slide the rack gaiter fully towards the rack body. Put a straight edge on the tie rod. Is it bent or just an optical illusion? If it is badly bent replace the tie rod but be warned it is not a straightforward job. If it is not bent replace the track rod end and use the car.
You need to set the tracking if you have disturbed or replaced the track rod end.
You may find that if the tie rod is badly bent that it is better to replace the rack assy with an exchange unit.

[myoldjalopy]

I don't know how that got bent but, assuming all else is good, you need a new tie rod/track rod end. ESM sell them, but two types - one for pre-1958 and one for post-1958 cars. From your pic, I guess your car is probably a post-1958 vehicle.
See the selection here: https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/tie-rod

Thanks very much for that. Yes, it's a 1960 car.

Good question though. Does anyone have any ideas how this might have happened? This vehicle is new to me, so I first found this issue today whilst checking the vital parts.

Possibly whacking the wheel into the kerb whilst on full lock. The new track rod ends from ESM are sealed for life and do not have a grease nipple.

Stephen

Yes, the web site says the later type are sealed for life - but the pictures show a grease nipple. Whats that all about then?

[Bill_qaz]

Yes Phil, difficult as camera can trick your perception. When I look the joint end looks cranked relative to the actual track rod. As you say it needs careful checking once the knackered end is removed.

[svenedin]

Thanks very much for that. Yes, it's a 1960 car.

Good question though. Does anyone have any ideas how this might have happened? This vehicle is new to me, so I first found this issue today whilst checking the vital parts.

Possibly whacking the wheel into the kerb whilst on full lock. The new track rod ends from ESM are sealed for life and do not have a grease nipple.

Stephen

Yes, the web site says the later type are sealed for life - but the pictures show a grease nipple. Whats that all about then?

They haven't bothered to update the picture!

Stephen

[myoldjalopy]

Ah, that makes sense......

[mogdobz]

Thanks all. To put it in terms my economically sized brain can understand - I'll check the big rod that the tie rod end goes on to check if it's also bent

[Bill_qaz]

Thanks all. To put it in terms my economically sized brain can understand - I'll check the big rod that the tie rod end goes on to check if it's also bent

Tie rod or track rod (same thing) coming out of rubber boot of steering rack.
Tie rod end and or track rod end (same thing) bit that has the ball joint

[mogdobz]

Quick update for anyone browsing in the future who sets out to do the same job.

I purchased tie end rod ball joint assemblies (a pack of two) from ESM Morris Minors. They were same size as the old ones in the car, and did have grease nipples.

It's the sort of job that takes ten minutes if you have the right gadgets, or three hours and a lot of struggling with tough nuts if you don't. Ask me how I know!! In the end I found it beneficial to heat the locking nut at the base of the tie rod ends to loosen it up - even then I had to lie on my back and use my legs to push the spanner around! I used a ball joint / tie rod end popper (Amazon jobby, cheap and easy) to get the thing out of the steering arm. And, finally, to remove the nut on the ball joint's bolt I had to use mole grips to grasp the bolt and stop it rotating whilst I got the nut off. All done in the end and now off for professional alignment, since I certainly will have clowned it a few mm about.

[svenedin]

Quick update for anyone browsing in the future who sets out to do the same job.

I purchased tie end rod ball joint assemblies (a pack of two) from ESM Morris Minors. They were same size as the old ones in the car, and did have grease nipples.

It's the sort of job that takes ten minutes if you have the right gadgets, or three hours and a lot of struggling with tough nuts if you don't. Ask me how I know!! In the end I found it beneficial to heat the locking nut at the base of the tie rod ends to loosen it up - even then I had to lie on my back and use my legs to push the spanner around! I used a ball joint / tie rod end popper (Amazon jobby, cheap and easy) to get the thing out of the steering arm. And, finally, to remove the nut on the ball joint's bolt I had to use mole grips to grasp the bolt and stop it rotating whilst I got the nut off. All done in the end and now off for professional alignment, since I certainly will have clowned it a few mm about.

Well done!

Stephen