Clutch Replacement for Beginners

[mogdobz]

Hi all. Doris, 948cc, needs a new clutch. She's reached the end of the adjustment rod and the clutch itself makes a bit of noise during operation after getting heated up.

Can anyone point me towards good guides for dropping the gearbox and installing a replacement clutch? I wouldn't particularly want to remove the engine.

I'd prefer to do it myself over a sunny day, and hopefully learn a few things, rather than take it to a garage.

Thanks!

[simmitc]

Others may disagree, but I'd much rather remove the engine to change a clutch rather than the box. The usual books such as the BMC Workshop Manual or the Haynes book detail the procedure for either. You should be able to search on this site as I'm sure that we've covered this before. If you do go for the box, be very careful when pulling it back - if it comes back too far too quickly, then you risk breaking the top off the bellhousing.

[les]

I had a gearbox very occasionally refused to select 4th gear, so i removed the box from underneath, undoing all manner of items to release it. it’s no fun at all and regret doing it in many ways.
In your case engine removal is by far the best option for clutch replacement, after all the clutch is bolted to it.

[ManyMinors]

I too would prefer to remove the engine myself if I was simply replacing the clutch. If I had a pit or a lift I might think differently but working on the ground I'd much rather not be underneath the car struggling to remove and refit the gearbox - and previous experience has shown me what a pain it can be when the gearbox crossmember bolts no longer screw into and out of the captive nuts in the chassis legs I'm not suggesting that one method is correct and the other is not but that is my preference in a standard garage. I would remove the front panel and slide the engine out on a trolly jack.

[King Kenny]

I have done the job both ways and taking the engine out is much easier. Once the front grill is removed the engine and gearbox will be easy to pull out using a hydraulic engine lift. Or, if you have room, a hoist mounted on a cross beam.

[mogdobz]

Surprised to hear it's more of a faff to drop the gearbox out alone than taking out the engine. No cranes or hoists here, unfortunately... Just ramps, new parts and elbow grease. Could make it unrealistic to attempt? Thanks for the advice so far.

[les]

Well, it’s not impossible. However if you do decide to remove the box, I’m sure it will convince you never to do a clutch that way again !!

[simmitc]

Whilst a hoist makes single handed engine removal relatively easy, two people working together with a rope sling can easily lift these engines, especially if the front panel has been removed. You will need to support the gearbox to avoid placing a load on the input shaft. If supporting the engine on a jack, then use a plank of wood to spread the load across the sump.

[svenedin]

Some local MMOC branches have maintenance days when a group gets together to assist and teach others. Most if not all branches will have members who are willing to lend an engine hoist or if that is not possible you can hire one. A load balancer that enables the engine to be tilted on the hoist makes the job even easier. It is a fiddle to take off the front panel because there are a lot of fixings and often these are seized. Make it easier by soaking the fixings in PlusGas or similar and by having the correct tools. The nuts that hold the hockey sticks on (3 per side) and the 3 fixings in the middle at the bottom of the front panel are 2BA. A 2BA socket and a 2BA combination spanner makes this quite straightforward. 1 of the hockey stick nuts is too tight in the wing to easily get a socket on it, hence the spanner. People will tell you that you can remove the engine without removing the front panel. You certainly can but the engine needs to be rotated once the input shaft is disengaged. ESM Morris Minors took off the front panel to replace my clutch so that is what I did when I removed the engine. I think they must know a thing or two about what is easiest given they work on the cars day in, day out. Another thing that makes such jobs easier is to fit one of the extending bonnet props. Then the bonnet can be opened to a vertical position. Without such a prop the standard prop can be disconnected and the bonnet tied up to a ceiling beam or more traditionally to the boot handle (this won't work with a convertible).

I found the most difficult thing was to get the engine to go back in the very last bit. This was because the splines on the gearbox input shaft didn't want to line up. We tried (there were 2 of us) to jiggle the engine but that didn't work. In the end I took the spark plugs out and rotated the engine on the starting handle until there was a satisfying clunk and the engine and bell housing came together fully.

If your gearbox happens to have the modification to the front cover for a neoprene lip seal (most do not) it would be a good idea to replace that seal at the same time as the clutch. The seal costs next to nothing and the effort required to access it is considerable. On this year's Minors on Tour that seal failed on one of the cars which also wrecks the clutch as it gets drenched in oil.

Lastly, don't forget the rubber front panel to inner wing seals. I did and had to mostly take the front panel off again!!

Stephen

[geoberni]

Just to add supporting comments to engine removal for the job.

I was also changing the engine gearbox mounting plate, so the engine did have to come out, but I'd have done the same just for the clutch.
Unlike Stephen, I chose to leave the grill in place and had no difficulty in doing it on my own with a hoist and leveller ...

Having laid under a car many years ago to change a clutch by just removing the gearbox (Datsun Bluebird estate circa mid 1990s), the memory still haunts me....

20230707_165156.jpg (1.4 MiB) Viewed 4947 times

[Bill_qaz]

I found the most difficult thing was to get the engine to go back in the very last bit. This was because the splines on the gearbox input shaft didn't want to line up. We tried (there were 2 of us) to jiggle the engine but that didn't work. In the end I took the spark plugs out and rotated the engine on the starting handle until there was a satisfying clunk and the engine and bell housing came together fully.

Stephen

This is also made easier if you put the gearbox in first gear, handbrake on. This will stop input shaft rotating while turning the engine to align the splines. Also use a clutch alignment tool to centre clutch plate before tightening pressure plate.

Good luck whichever way you choose

[svenedin]

Just to add supporting comments to engine removal for the job.

I was also changing the engine gearbox mounting plate, so the engine did have to come out, but I'd have done the same just for the clutch.
Unlike Stephen, I chose to leave the grill in place and had no difficulty in doing it on my own with a hoist and leveller ...

Having laid under a car many years ago to change a clutch by just removing the gearbox (Datsun Bluebird estate circa mid 1990s), the memory still haunts me....
20230707_165156.jpg

Fair enough. My engine bay was pristine and I really didn't want to scrape the lovely new paint! Also, I was not that confident about the job and I wanted as much room as possible.

Stephen

[svenedin]

I found the most difficult thing was to get the engine to go back in the very last bit. This was because the splines on the gearbox input shaft didn't want to line up. We tried (there were 2 of us) to jiggle the engine but that didn't work. In the end I took the spark plugs out and rotated the engine on the starting handle until there was a satisfying clunk and the engine and bell housing came together fully.

Stephen

This is also made easier if you put the gearbox in first gear, handbrake on. This will stop input shaft rotating while turning the engine to align the splines. Also use a clutch alignment tool to centre clutch plate before tightening pressure plate.

Good luck whichever way you choose

Good tip!

[geoberni]

Fair enough. My engine bay was pristine and I really didn't want to scrape the lovely new paint! Also, I was not that confident about the job and I wanted as much room as possible.

Stephen

As it was my first time taking the engine out, I figured I'd try it 'by the book' Option 1, and go for the extra room, Option 2, if I had difficulty.

[mogdobz]

Thanks very much for your advice, all. I'll see if the Bristol club is doing a maintenance day any time soon, and ask around for tips (and possibly cranes, if anyone is willing).

As for dropping it vs engine out... Always happy to take the easier way!!