Push home those bullet and spade connections!

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MikeNash
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Push home those bullet and spade connections!

Post by MikeNash »

A warning to you all.
Yesterday I backed my Traveller out of the garage, got out and shut it up, turned round and found the car filling with smoke and more pouring out around the bonnet lid. Jumped in and found a wire glowing under the dash, grabbed it and pulled it and saved the day. Now got a nasty burn with plastic stuck in it.
Found that a couple of spade connectors to the radio had touched - and poof! - near disaster.
Checked others and found the same problem elsewhwere. Trouble is I'm a born bodger, fiddling about with kit, getting it up and running as quick as possible and then never tidying it up. In this case I forgot the fuse as well! (And still got a low resistance coil with a headlight bulb in series lashed to its side.)

Experience can be expensive - learn from other peoples' mistakes instead. You have been warned. MikeN.
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Post by chickenjohn »

I think the lesson here is don't bodge electrics!!!
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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Post by aupickup »

it is quicker to do it right in the first place, then you only do the job once
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Post by jojax64 »

Too true........... :(
I've wired a few accessories, radio, alarm, foglights, gauges, etc. I was in too much of a hurry at the time, and to be honest I've found myself going back over my work to tidy up wires with cable ties and checking connections. :-? :-?
Always making sure to use grommets when I've had to drill holes through the bulkhead.......... :roll: :roll:
I bought a few of these new type inline fuses that simply clamps on to the existing wire without the need for connectors or cutting the wire.
My spade-type connections I re-did by buying the proper bullet connectors and sleeves. Looks a lot better too, far more of a "period" image. :) :) :)
I made sure to use a relay on the fog lights, which has a built-in fuse. The radio has a fuse in the back, and I hope it would blow in the event of a short cct. :-? :-?
I NEVER take chances with wiring, especially on accessories. I've seen the damage it can cause as I remember being in a friend's Mini when his old 8-track shorted out (dodgy connections, simply twisted wires together and taped them up :-? ) :o :o :o
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Post by Kevin »

Trouble is I'm a born bodger, fiddling about with kit, getting it up and running as quick as possible and then never tidying it up.
Nice of you to be so honest Mike.
But have you learnt you lesson and done the other outstanding bits as well........
Cheers

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rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

I also admit to a bodging 'tendency' similar to Mike's so I try and avoid any electrical modifications unless I'm in the mood to get fit fuses etc..
(I'd rather have no stereo than a BBQ'd car)

[On the safety side, hopefully everyone is aware that fuses need to be fitted on the FEED side - this is to prevent your wiring catching fire if there is too much current! Relying on a fuse in the equipment itself won't stop your wiring from catching fire if you get a short circuit.]
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Post by lowedb »

I think the lesson here is don't bodge electrics!!!
It's a very dangerous occupation if you do. 12v itself may not kill you, but fires can!
bought a few of these new type inline fuses that simply clamps on to the existing wire without the need for connectors or cutting the wire.
But if the wire isn't cut, the fuse is in paralell so does nothing. Either the holder cuts the wire, or it's meant for taking a tap off the existing wire and your using them wrong.
The radio has a fuse in the back, and I hope it would blow in the event of a short cct.
As Ray points out, not unless the short were inside the radio. You need to protect the circuit at source (ie near the battery) as the most vulnerable point is the wiring when it gets trapped / worn through / eaten by mice. Selecting the right fuse / wire combination is a bit of an art, so uses the biggest wire and the smallest fuse you can. Otherwise the resistance of the wire can prevent enough current flowing to blow the fuse!
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Post by jojax64 »

Good points.

I'd worried about relying on the fuse within the radio to be honest. I did initially fit an inline fuse which blew after a couple of days, so I suppose the correct fuse rating is a bit ambiguous. :-?

The "clamp" type fuse holder I mentioned DOES cut the wire, much the same way as a Scotchlok connector and the fuse itself becomes the conductor. Remove the fuse, and the accessory goes open cct. 8)

I WILL fit a fuse close to the battery for the radio. Anybody recommend the approx. rating for a modern JVC radio/cdplayer?
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Post by Onne »

Use the same rating as the one on the radio I'd say
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Post by MikeNash »

Thanks for comments about fusery. Mine leave quite a lot to be desired. Really need a subsidary fuse box for the extras. Is there one?
But have you learnt you lesson and done the other outstanding bits as well........
Well the trouble is that REAL bodgers always do lots of things at once. Not TOO many you understand - but enough so they're never done quite properly. That includes the Wolseley brakes, the bmcecosse head, the extra lights and the new project of a modified air intake to measure airflow!! And the latest is always the most fun!
But fire is serious. (By the way, don't modern plastics smell nice when they burn! Make you coff though.) So its under the dash tonite and start the repairs. Thanks for your advice and support, MikeN.
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Post by Multiphonikks »

If you're rewiring the car I can highly recommend having your own loom made up. It's so muh nicer to look at in the car and it seems to be safer too :)
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Post by MikeNash »

Aargh! Not a new loom! Its got to be going tomorrow!
Tomorrow I collect two metro seats and retractable belts, a sump (to put a temperature gauge in) a spare carb and dist (to play with) and other bits I've forgotten. I've hardly time to bodge the wiring properly! How will I ever fit a new loom? Its 8.30, so off out and under the dash. MikeN.
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Post by lowedb »

Anybody recommend the approx. rating for a modern JVC radio/cdplayer?
Depends on the power amplifiers, since they eat most of the juice. There ought to be a label on it somewhere stating current consumption. Of course using the same fuse as the radio has ought to work, assuming it's the right one.
Really need a subsidary fuse box for the extras. Is there one?
Yeah, loads of places do them. I bought my Last one in Conrad which is the german equivalent of Maplin, so try there. Alternatively try Vehicle Wiring Products (advert on prac clas) or even a caravan accessory shop.
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Post by Alec »

Hello all,

just a couple of thoughts on the subject.

" Really need a subsidary fuse box for the extras. Is there one? " Vehicle Wiring Products have beeen mentioned and they have a selection, as do Holden and several other specialists.

I really do not like the 'Scotchlok' style of connector, I know that they are made by 3M but the principle just seems such a bodge, too small a connector just severs some of the conductor, not a good idea, and they look so ugly and wrong.

Alec
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Post by bmcecosse »

A radio, in a Minor ??? Didn't come with one as standard, so therefore no need. How do you hear the thing anyway ? And if you really must have a wireless, there are already two fuses provided by BMC - just use one of them.
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Post by jojax64 »

I AM using the fusebox to supply the radio. However, a live from the battery is required for the radio "memory". :roll:
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Post by bmcecosse »

That live can still come from the fusebox - just use the non-ignition controlled fuse! Unfused wires are very dangerous.
Wireless with 'memory' now !!! Where will it all lead to I wonder.
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Post by aupickup »

well i can hear mine in a moggy, just full volume.
keep up with the times, and of course i had a radio in mine in 1969
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Post by Multiphonikks »

BMC, they didn't come with wolsey brakes either!

If fitting a radio it makes sense to put an additional fuse on to prevent unessesary load to what may be 35 or more year old electrics!
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Post by MikeNash »

Thank you for all your advice and encouragement. I'm getting a bit too old/inflexible for this upsidedown under the dash thing, but its all bit tidier now. I see the value of better crimpimg tools - the ratchet variety have been much recommended so I'll get one. (As usual, AFTER the event!) But I'd like to go over to bullets as the general connection - they seem to go together and apart more easily, are fully insulated when pressed home (must get the special tool) and are more period. But its difficult to solder under the dash as well as very smelly so I'd like to use crimpers for this too. I see Vehicle Wiring Products offer such a thing that does a hexagonal crimp which looks good. Anyone have any experience of these, or any advice?
Finally, on fuse boxes, thanks for the pointers.
PS. One of the Metro seats I've bought has an electric bum heater! Yet another fuse required! MikeN.
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