wot paint?

Post by **paulk** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:05 pm

Me and Peetee are wondering how we can establish what paint has been applied to yellowmog. It is a very loud 'BT' yellow, clearly not standard issue and we need to apply a bit extra to cover up the not so good bits. At the mo there are several chips sitting in various solvents but none seem too happy to disolve. Can anyone come up with any chemical cleverness to help us find out what sort of paint it is?

Post by **jonathon** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:15 pm

So long as you can colour match the paint then you can use either cellulose or two pack for tidying up. Personally I'd go for the latter as it will hold its colour much better and is less critical of the paint used previously.

Post by **paulk** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:41 pm

Will 2 pack work with anything?

Ive seriously thought this could even be painted with Skip enamel?

I can spray but I'm not kitted out with compressed air face mask so I'd assumed 2 pack was well beyond my ability and well well beyond my safety.

Am seriously considering finding out where the local skip guys get their paint and buying a 4 inch emulsion brush.

Post by **jonathon** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:55 pm

If you are prepared to brush the paint on then use the two pack, its easy and covers very well. You will not be troubled with the need for safety equipment either. If you put enough on, as flat as possible, you can flat this down with 1500 grit wet n dry, for a mirror finish.

Post by **paulk** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:03 pm

Cheers will ring up paint guys tommorrow

Post by **Matt** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:33 pm

kind of relevant to this thread, how do the pro's flat the paint back and do the final cutting back with the 1500? do you use a sander or do you do it by hand?

Post by **Welung666** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:29 am

Matt my past work many years ago in a body shop had me hand wet flatting in paper up to 2400 then polishing with a mop attachment on a large grinder with G4 paste.... brings out a stunning mirror finish with enough elbow grease

Lee

Post by **Matt** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:35 am

G4 Paste? is that a bit like T cut?

Post by **Welung666** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:42 am

Yes Matt just a little better... made by Farcella I believe

Just rub the paste on with a dry cloth, pick up a polishing mop head from somewhere like Jawel paints and stick it on a 9" grinder (but it must be wet else it burns the paint)

Brings out the deepest shine ever on celulose paint!

Lee

Post by **Multiphonikks** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 6:07 am

*BAD Mac Joke WARNING*

Of course, it's not as fast as the G5 paste, or the IBM paste. Darn naughty Apple People....

*sighs*

Post by **jonathon** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 7:44 am

I'd go along with Lee's comments, only we start with 1500 going upto 2000 wet flatting, then my preferance is to 3000 D/A wet. Mop with G3 Farreccala machine compound then machine glaze then hand wax. Takes time to achieve the perfect finish but is well worth it. This proceedure is applicable to cellulose also. You must remember to use loads of clean warm water during this process.

Post by **chickenjohn** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 7:56 am

I would say use cellulose, as its the original type of paint used on Morris Minors. Its much safer to use at home, as you can wear a mask- two pack gives off isocyanates which can kill you- chemically simmilar to cyanide!!! Not to be used without breathing gear.
Celly is harmful to your health- don`t breathe the fumes!, but being chemically simmilar (actually less harmful than!) petrol you can spray it using the proper type of mask.

Also cellulose can be blended more easily, and looks right on the cars, two pack often looks "plasticky" or un-naturally shiny. Cellulose, being softer is easier to wet sand and polish too.

Two pack is the stuff that is harder, but more brittle and hence more prone to stone chips. Cellulose does not fade if you look after it- polishing and washing!

Oh, and two pack is being banned in a few years!!! and Celly (from the best info I've been able to acquire- those in the resto trade and a few paint suppliers) will still be available for pre- 72` cars, much the same way as coach enamel is available for vinage/ veteran cars.

Post by **paulk** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:42 am

John I agree BUT

The car should be Traffy blue but is now BT yellow so authenticity is not much of an issue

Post by **millerman** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 10:42 pm

Jonathon
I like the idea of brush painting 2 pack to smarten up the engine bay.
Presumably using 2 pack primer followed by the top coat would be the way to go? I have used cellulose to do this and, because of the quick drying, even tho it was well thinned, still left brush marks.
I suspect this cold weather would give some slow curing 2 pack paint?

Post by **jonathon** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 11:06 pm

Hi Millerman
If the original paint in the engine bay is sound, then all you need to do is scotch brite the surface,degrease it and apply the top coat. If you add about 5% activator to the colour then the paint will be touch dry in a half hour. Apply a few coats, don't be tempted to try it in one thick one. flat back as suggested and polish.
I disagree with some of Johns comments regarding two pack paint and its qualities, especially in this application, but each to his own, I'd try it and see, rather than make inaccurate assesments.