Getting started

Post by **brocsman** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 5:10 pm

I've just bought a MM (1966 I think) which was driven into a garage 10 years ago, and left. I want to get it going, but I've never tried to do this before. I don't want to waste time or money, so can anyone tell me what order to do things in? Should I start wil electrics, engine, suspension or what?

Post by **Pyoor_Kate** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:38 pm

Well, I guess, first thing is, what sort of condition is it in structurally. If you're going to have to strip it down to sort out rust, then the mechanicals are probably not that much of an issue. You can pick up a s/h 1098cc engine for peanuts, and the same's true of most of the transmission (I've picked up parts and been offered most of a mog transmission for nothing).

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:42 pm

Agreed - it'll be the state of the body/structure that dictates whether or not it gets back on the road, and takes the most time to fix. Just remember it's the structural bits and underside in general that are most important, prettying up the outside can wait until later.

Post by **brocsman** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:12 pm

Thanks for those thoughts. I admit I'm buying it from a friend, and I haven't had a chance to get to grips with it yet, so the full impact has yet to happen. I'm assuming after 10 years in a dry garage the structure will be ok-ish (famous last words). What about the wiring? How quickly does it degenerate? I'm hopeless at car electrics.

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:17 pm

Chances are that the wiring will be OK, and if it doesn't work it'll be a connector, not a wire that's at fault. It is just about the easiest car, electrically, that I've ever seen - a good one to learn on

I bet (like everyone else on this board) that the first thing you'll do is try and get it started. If so, good luck!

Post by **brocsman** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:31 pm

Somewhat surprisingly that wasn't my first idea. After ten years (especially as wasn't drained or prepared for storage) I do want to see if the engine has seized, and I'm thinking the cooling system will need to be taken apart. I want to see what state the brakes are in. I'm going to need to replace the hydraulics at a guess, but I'm looking forward to trying to do these things. I haven't touched a car for over twenty years, and my last MM cost me £15 in 1971. Last I heard it was still going...

Post by **Chris Morley** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:36 pm

The problem is that most moggies which end up stored for years have been taken off the road after failing the MOT. The reason for that is usually because they needed expensive welding. Let's hope yours isn't too rusty as bad examples of these cars can be virtually worthless.

However the best thing to do with your new project is to see first if you can fire it up. Assuming you have a starting handle, try to turn the engine over. If it does turn freely then it's likely to be OK. Come back to us then and we'll give you pointers on what needs doing next.

Post by **brocsman** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 2:24 pm

I finally made a start (it's been too cold), and as expected the engine is siezed solid. I've tried removing the plugs, and squirting WD40 in the chambers, leaving it a week, no difference.

Today I took the radiator out so that I could get better purchase, but even with a ring spanner I couldn't shift it.

I really don't want to start taking the engine apart yet. Any ideas?

Post by **Peetee** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 2:34 pm

I'm assuming after 10 years in a dry garage the structure will be ok-ish (famous last words).

Twenty years ago my mum had a Minor that was a structural wreck.
Assume nothing - investigate!

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 2:47 pm

Pour coca cola down the bores and leave it for a few days. I sounds bizarre, but it worked for me. Then use a ring spanner again, and (say this quietly) a few taps with a hammer on it. Doesn't have to be coke - supermarket own brand works too

Post by **Matt** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 4:43 pm

This is because coke (not the white powdery type :s) contains phosporic acid... (dissolves rust)

Post by **Multiphonikks** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:21 pm

...just think what it does to yer teeth!

Post by **Skeggysteve** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:50 pm

I have used coke many times as a temporary 'help' with a slipping clutch on racing cars.
Assume it works 'cause it's sticky? Matt do you know?
Another thing that we used to 'help' with a slipping clutch in racing was a squirt from a fire extinguisher - thou' I did once get in trouble at Donnington for doing it, might have been 'cause it was one of theirs!

Steve

Post by **Matt** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:07 pm

Steve - what sort of extinguisher?

I would agree with the stickyness comment, the sugar in it would probably caramalise as the clutch plate slips and get even stickier

Post by **Cam** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:25 pm

Will the Coke not damage anything else in there? Rings, bores, pistons? Only asking because I might give it a go if it's reasonably safe. Of course you'd need an oil change afterwards!

Post by **Matt** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:58 pm

Gos... your worse than me

Post by **brocsman** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 11:25 am

I've tried Coke. I left it for a week, but no difference. It's still rock solid. Is it worth trying again, or waiting a bit longer?

Failing that what else can I do? Am I going to have to strip down the engine?

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:23 pm

Hmm, Sounds like plenty of time for it to do the stuff. I reckon (and I stress my lack of expertise on this) that you're looking at taking the head off at least, so you can give the pistons a persuasive tap with a rubber mallet...

Post by **plastic_orange** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:16 pm

Try putting diesel down the bores and leave for a few days - usually works. This is assuming that it's only the pistons stuck in bore. If it's more serious a strip down, or other engine is required - but that's only a few hours work.
The Fire extinguisher trick mentioned only worked with CTC extinguishers (Carbon Tetra Chloride - dry cleaning agent) and these are long extinct - produced cyanide gas in contact with flames, and hence not been in use for over 30 years. However, you may still come across them, but recommend you don't use.

Pete

Post by **minor_hickup** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 2:49 pm

I can vouch for diesel in the bores, worked on my lawnmower