Morris Minor Owners Club

Folks,

The suspension is too low on my trav and she will be going on her first road test tomorrow (providing i don't come across any further bugs).

I have released the torsion bar at the rear and pushed the front hubs down as far as they will go then tightened the torsion bar at the rear

but she is still sitting too low, on the drivers side there is not even enough clearence to fit my fingers between the wheel and the arch. Now i don't want her high, don't even want her orignal height, i would like her a little lower but not this low.

Any tips on how i could raise her up about a inch on either side.

George

My guess is you're going to have to strip the front suspension and turn the arm on the torsion bar. I hope I'm wrong - it's a pain of a job.

andrew

thats what i'm thinking but i'm hoping there is something else that can be done

Fingers crossed for you - did they come off for the Resto?

yeah body shop took them off without marking them

George

Hmmmm - not looking hopeful then

Looks like BG is has the answer. Did the body shop strip the bars from the bottom arm though.Does the cross member plate have any remaining adjustment available?.

I seem to recall that you MUST NOT mark the torsion bars they'll eventually fatigue fail if you do.

The correct method is in the Haynes manual that's not with me at present, but the basic is to set the rear lever arm roughly in place, then fit the front lower arm and measure the vertical distance between the outer end and the inner end.

That's always worked for me.

Never heard that before - fortunately I always use paint anyway

seem to recall that you MUST NOT mark the torsion bars they'll eventually fatigue fail if you do

It depends how you mark them ;) so long as you dont scratch them they should be ok!

Easy enough to raise the suspension - have done it at the start of a rally when told the roads were going to be 'rough'! Once you have the knack you can ease the rear arm backwards off the splines and refit it one or two splines round and then stick the whole lot back together. That's provided the nuts/bolts come off easily enough of course. Make sure you have good bump stops fitted - and if you run it all too low it will quickly mash the suspension legs up through the inner wings.

got it up - that sounds bad but she is raised high enough so she is safe to drive

engine started first time last night, it has been sitting for a couple of years and first touch she was off like a dream, couldn't take the smile of my face all night!!!

Well done!

Im having similar troubles and have mashed the passenger side wing. I have little/no experience with suspension. Is it a job I can undertake without making a hash of it?

yip its quite easy to do, have a go and all will become clear

George

thanks mate

But be careful - there's a lot of energy stored in the torsion bar. You have to wonder why it is low - look carefully at the rear mounting on the crossmember - has it rusted/fatigued and allowed the rear end of the bar to rotate? Also - if the front dampers are knackered - the car will plunge up and down alarmingly - and smash into the bump stops. Try bouncing the car at the front - it should stop as soon as you stop pushing it! Have a look in the wee filler plugs on top of the dampers - see if there is any oil in them - should be filled almost to the top.

ill check the levels at the weekend, i think it may have had new torsion bars at some point, would that affect the ride height, do they twist as they are used? I have a feeling the dampers are knackered as the ride is awful, i just don't want to confirm it as im skint!

But be careful - there's a lot of energy stored in the torsion bar. You have to wonder why it is low

The reason why it is low is clearly explained in his comments about assembly method. However, checking the dampers is a good idea - even if you are not aware of any suspension problems ;-)

Front suspension hints for those who are still in the dark:
As a first estimate, you want about 2" to 2.5" gap between the lower trunnion pin and the free end of the suspension arm. Then jack the suspension arm up (very carefully!!) until you can fit the trunnion pin into the arm and then assemble the thin pressed suspension arm and bolts etc... (you don't need to fully tighten everything if it is just to make the first check)

After assembly you can put the car back on its wheels to check the final ride height. For fine adjustment the adjuster plate for the torsion bar rear arm (between the arm and the slotted hole in the crossmember) has a series of holes that allow small changes in setting but if you need more, move the rear arm by 1 spine to give approx 1" of ride height change.

If you want the front suspension very low: gap between the free end of the arm and the lower trunnion pin.
1" If you want the front suspension high for offroading: 3.5" gap between the free end of the arm and the lower trunnion pin.

Maarking the torsion bars is fine but if you are replacing worn out bushes or making serious repairs, the suspension height will be different afterwards anyway!
If you want the ride height to look normal - you need to see how your suspension will sit with something in between 1.5" and 3"...

From recent experience - if you loose a bumpstop and the inner wing is damaged allowing excessive suspension travel, this excessive travel can damage your torsion bar! Torsion bars can break but in my case I was lucky that it just got weaker (self lowering suspension )

thanks, i do like how the car looks low, but im often bouncing down farm tracks and back lanes so dont want to mangle another wing, how do i check the condition of the torsion bar?