Morris Minor Owners Club

I've observed our 1098 traveller has recently started to empty its top radiator tank over a couple of weeks or so. She also hesitates now and again and eventually stops altogether once in a while

Thoughts so far:

Cylinder head gasket since no water leaks are apparent though the water pump is noisy, but compressions are all pretty close and good

Fuel line not venting properly since taking the locking fuel cap off has fixed it once.

Fuel pump points

Carburettor float valve sticking.


Anybody got any other thoughts on these (I assume) unrelated little foibles???

Hi,

I had a similar set of symptoms a while ago.

Have a close look at the inside of the engine compartment/bonnet lid.

In my case the water pump was leaking slowly (but only when the engine was hot), and the water was dripping onto the fan pully, then being sprayed over the inside of the engine compartment.

I know the electrice are water resistant, but warm antifreeze/water was too much!
Changed the pump, stopped the spray, and didn't need the replacement HT stuff!

Could also be a slight leak from the hoses - I'd try that first if the two symptoms started together.

Colin

Well you know it's the tank venting that's stopping you - you need to sort that out ! Assume the water loss is a separate thing - rig up a bottle to catch any water coming out the overflow from the rad - when it cools down it will be sucked back in. You could pull the plugs for a look-see. If water is getting in to one cylinder that plug will be perfectly clean and white !

Many thanks indeed! Any thoughts on improving fuel tank venting??

Get a new cap that allows the tank to 'breathe'.

Or if you are really miserable - drill a small hole in the one you have.

Or have a look to see why that one is not venting. Perhaps you can find the block?

If you use BMECOSSE's idea you will need to get a new cap anyway probably... You need one with 2 rubbers in it or it won't suck back (one under the head of cap & one on the valve thingy).

Halfords do them but you might struggle to find one the right lb, think Minor is 4lb & their lowest is 13 lb. In this case just buy one of the 13lb or 15lb ones for 3 quid & use the rubber on your existing (or new as your one doesn't sound like it's working...) cap.

If you're really dishonest / tight you can even take the cap back, Halfrauds staff would never even have a clue about the rubber...

When ours leaked like this it was the water pump, they leak from the little hole in the underside where the bearing etc wear & start to let water by, this is convenient exit hole! Put a new one in, the pump & the new bit of hose for bypass (you may as well do it whilst there.. use heater hose) will cost you less than 15 quid & it will only take you about half hour... if feeling flush splash out on a new fan belt too...

Pssst - I think bmc was talknig about the fuel filler cap ;)

We were indeed talking about the fuel filler cap .

Update report as follows:

I've refurbished fitted and tested a fuel pump I had around and it seemed to work so I took the top off the old one and found the points completely knackered, so I think that might be a clue! I've ordered an electronic pump from ESM and I'll fit that next weekend.

There seems no further evidence of coolant leak but the water pump is hellish noisy. I squirted WD40 at it from behind while the engine was running and that's quietened it down. My intention is a new water pump asap.

Any further advice anybody??

John,

Well done for the fuel pump.

The water pump shouldn't be difficult (time consuming & messy).

It's easiest to remover the radiator, so that gives you the opportunity of flushing everything, fitting an 88C thermostat etc.
It's really worth getting in any spare hoses/gaskets etc before the job.

I had an odd experience with the replacement pump I fitted - the blind hole for the engine locating peg wasn't deep enough, so it held the pump body away from the engine, causing a leak....

I ended up taking the radiator and pump out 3-4 times. At the end it took 40 minutes per operation.

Colin

It was a two piece question - one part about fuel starvation (drill hole etc) other part about water loss from rad cap (fit catch bottle). I don't really get the part about the 'two rubbers' on the rad cap - mine certainly pulls water back in from the catch bottle - rad is always full to the top.

Well there's no doubt about the basic problem. A replacement fuel pump was the answer to the periodic stopping problem.

Strangely the coolant issue seems to have solved itself in the meantime, nonetheless a new water pump will be fitted to cure the frying noise from the front of the engine

The new water pumps have bigger impellers - so just check it has clearance to turn ok before you refit the rad and the hoses etc. And be certain to fit a new by-pass hose, straight thick one - NOT the daft wee convoluted thing, and may as well pop a new fan belt on at the same time !