Morris Minor Owners Club

This ones got me puzzled, any ideas as to what I might find?
Gearlever is very stiff travelling from gear to gear (all gears), yet when I use the vehicle other times it's ok, like today, but after doing some shopping it started it again for a while, and then was as easy as you like to operate. I am thinking it is clutch related, although it feels normal. The gears select alright, but it's the shift from one to another that has too much friction, when the problem is there that is!
This is quite a blow after five years excellent service!!

might be low oil level les?

Well, yes that was my first thought as I have been leaking a bit from the tail of the box, but making that assumption I squirted a quantity into the filler and it overflowed right away, so doesn't seem to be an oil issue. I think the only thing to do is replace the clutch soon, and if that doesn't do it, look for another box. Nice job for the winter!

Hello Les,

if there is a clutch problem, you will have difficulty selecting first or reverse when stopped, is that the case? Also the gears will tend to grind during a change if the clutch is not releasing and the revs are not synchronised.
I think I would look at the gear selectors them selves?

Alec

presuming this related to a 1098 gearbox (1970 pickup?) then the problem could be in the 'remote lever housing'.
This is the extra bit added on top of the box to bring the lever nearer to the hand brake.
Hig friction is often something running dry or a bit of swarf getting where it is not desirable. If this happens only on one gear change (e.g. 2>1 and 1<2) it could be relating to the linkage and selectors in the box. [i.e in technical terms a shift without any select movement - where select movement is left/right and shift is forwards/backwards travel]
If it happens on any/all gearchanges then it is probably in the remote, so I guess you could try investigating the remote first.

LES, think simple...have you got too much free play on the clutch pedal?

In my experience you would know if the clutch is dragging - 1st geare would crunch and you would feel high resistance at the synchros (and maybe slightly higher effort to get out of gear), but the rest of the gearshifting would be ok.

I made a mistake in my previous post - I meant 1>2 / 2>1
(or 3>4, 4<3) not 2>3!

Thanks for all the replies, it does seem like a shaft is binding, as in the remote, but as the problem comes and goes I'm not so sure. I can't put my finger on it, but sense a slight difference with the pedal sometimes, although this might be because I'm looking for it. If I renew the box it would be silly not to renew the clutch, but then I won't know what cured it! So the plan is ( after checking adjustment etc, thanks Willie) to remove engine-- fit clutch, if no different then remove gearbox.
1st and reverse can be selected from standstill and there is no gear crunching, Alec.

Hello Les,

from the above I would be certain the clutch is not the problem, so the problem must be the selectors, which I meant from the gear lever onwards. Easiest first step is to remove the boot and check the gearlever where it sits in the remote extension.

Alec

I agree. I would say it's a gearbox and not a clutch issue. I had the same sort of thing coming home with Gracie from the website rally. After travelling for some time on the motorway (with too much play on the gearbox output shaft), I found it was stuck in 4th. It would move to 3rd but it was like pushing it through glue. Getting it across the 'H' to 1st and 2nd was impossible at first but after trying for a while it made it across (with difficulty and resistance). 1st and 2nd were not bad to select but 3rd and 4th were a pig. Also I found that the 'position' of 3rd seemed to be less defined and took a bit of finding to get it in properly. I decided to just get rid of that 'box and put another in, but oddly enough, a couple of days after, the box felt fine and all gears engaged properly! Seems odd to me that if something has vibrated loose that it should re-tighten again after a few days! I put it down to a heat related problem, but I'm still none the wiser.

Seems odd to me that if something has vibrated loose that it should re-tighten again after a few days!

Quick, bottle it and sell it!!! (whatever it is!)

Too late I'm afraid. Whatever it was has now leaked out all over my drive!

I think you may have convinced me!

I've dragged this one to the top just to give anyone interested an update.
After 3 nights work I've now fitted another clutch and gearbox, not a bundle of laughs but hopefully a success, I've yet to fill with oil and check it does not jump gears. I managed to make room in the garage although a bit cramped. As with most jobs I found that laying everything out on the bench and at intervals stopping to clean up before starting the next stage is the answer, although it doesn't solve the crawling around on the ground getting covered in grime, it sure stops the job becoming overpowering.
I will have a look in the 'old' box soon to see if i can pin-point the trouble, the clutch was reasonable but the thrust was well grooved, other than that it seemed ok.

Sounds good. Keep up updated Les!

Will do, test run tomorrow, I may even peep inside old box, time permitting.

Just a bit more on this sorry tale, good news being that the gearbox just fitted works fine, so that's a relief. The clutch makes a faint squeek when the thrust makes contact, perhaps I should have used a smear of oil, although at the time I decided not to. I was suprised to see the clutch that I fitted was the diaphram type, thought that it would be a spring clutch like the old one. Anyone else found this?
Looked into the 'old gearbox yesterday and removed the remote change, but as yet have not found the problem in fact everything looks in good shape. I have thought that the remote shaft feels tightish but I think it is just good fit and can't see it alternating between tight and loose, so the mystery remains, I can see it ending up spread all over the bench soon!
btw I had one 5/16 nut left over after doing the cluth/gearbox!
Another thing I will say is this-- if changing a clutch and you have lifting gear do not hesitate in removing the engine; working under the car and contending with the crossmember etc and the fact that you need to physically juggle with the box while lifting it from your side and holding it there is the stuff of nightmares, plus you keep cleaner standing upright!
Of course, if like me the gearbox has to come out--------good luck!

If you are using a diaphragm clutch then you should be using a roller type thrust bearing otherwise the carbon one will be cut to bits in no time. What was the bearing mating face like on the diaphragm? just the fingers to contact or was there a separate plate like on the spring type cover?

There was a separate plate similar to the spring type that was locked into the fingers of the diaphram

Phew!