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Mmmm Power Tools
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:37 pm
by Packedup
Given the option of either a 4.5 inch cheapo grinder, or a 750W cheapo reciprocating saw, which would you go for?
I want to get both eventually, but I'm wondering which one is the better option for right now. The grinder is a very useful tool, but I think the saw might be better for cutting up old shells, and removing rotten panels a bit less destructively.
Looking to buy one or the other tomorrow, so any comments much appreciated

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:42 pm
by bigginger
The saws are incredibly useful. but I'd save up for a rechargeable one (DeWalt) and buy the grinder. Battery one is PERFECT for taking to the scrappy.

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:54 pm
by Packedup
'S not my money (and therfore not entirely mine to do with as I wish), so I can't go much over 30 odd quid really. Would love a good cordless one, but I reckon a cheap n nasty Argos thing should either be up to the job, or give up in a puff of money back smoke
So based on that, do you reckon 30 quid Challenge (very apt name for their drills, it's a challenge to drill a round hole with them) is a better option than a 20 quid Focus grinder if it has to be one or the other? I figure the saw will help dispose of the Metro quite quickly (used a hacksaw and chisel to do most of the chopping of the other one, had work) and be handy for getting the floorpans out the pickup seeing as it's now bolted to the chassis.
Eventually I want at the very least a hand nibbler, set of snips, grinder and saw, but I think it's going to be better to get the tools bit by bit instead of frightening the purse holder with them all up front!

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:01 pm
by bigginger
The saw was certainly just the job for cutting my pick-up floor out, and they do make quick work out of cutting up cars. If I was going to do those two, I'd go for the saw - it'll chop the Metro more quickly than a grinder.
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:07 pm
by Packedup
bigginger wrote:The saw was certainly just the job for cutting my pick-up floor out, and they do make quick work out of cutting up cars. If I was going to do those two, I'd go for the saw - it'll chop the Metro more quickly than a grinder.
Excellent
On the last Metro we went part way through the pillars with the grinder, finished them off with the hacksaw. Then did a similar routine across the sills and floor. Only took a couple of afternoons, but was still heavy going and smarted a bit when the disc went and a bit whacked my chin...
The pickup needs both floors out (finally managed to get the green light on actual proper floor panels!) and I wasn't looking forward to trying to get in with the grinder, made more worrying by the cab now being on the chassis. Sounds like the saw is just the thing, definately going to get one now, and maybe one day have enough cash to get a cordless one for myself (by the time that happens, the cars I want to use it on at the breakers will be gone, no doubt).
Thanks for the opinion, saves me being quite so indecisive

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:14 pm
by Blunt
4.5" Grinder £12.99 inc VAT
HERE
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:14 pm
by bigginger
The grinder is an absolute nightmare for the floors - I tried!

The saw should make cutting up the car an afternoon's work, too.
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:16 pm
by Blunt
Ferm FRS600N All Purpose Saw 230V £24.99
HERE
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:20 pm
by Blunt
I paid about 9 quid for a grinder...and £15 for a diamond disc...
Definately worth getting a good disc regardless of the quality of the grinder as it pays for itself in (not having to buy) replacement discs
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:28 pm
by bigginger
Are the diamond discs for metal then? I thought they were for stone - or have I grabbed the wrong end of the power tool again?
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:32 pm
by Packedup
Blunt wrote:Ferm FRS600N All Purpose Saw 230V £24.99
HERE
Well that figures - Missed out on getting some bits from Screwfix this morning, and now the petrol or postage would make it at least the same price as
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/p ... 0.Saws.htm Will try and remember to get the grinder from Screwfix if there's another run up there anytime soon though, that's not a bad price at all!
Typical!
bigginger - When you took the floors out was the cab still on the chassis? Only it sounds like you were doing it for reasons slightly different to mine (I do want to put new metal back in!)

I figure if I go around the edges of the floor panels with a saw, then get a nibbler (love electric, going to be hand though I guess) to chop the bits over the chassis rails it should be quite a neat and not too tricky job. Just a matter of them lining up new panels, trimming etc to shape and calling in the welders
Also got the bottom of the n/s B post to do, I'm thinking a saw will give a neater more controllable cut when removing the rotted old section...
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:12 pm
by Cam
A grinder is a FAR more useful tool than a saw because you can cut AND grind! For car resto work it's got to be a grinder because you can't grind down welds with a saw!
I have cut a few cars up with grinders and it's fine. OK a saw might do it more quickly but a grinder is FAR more versatile.
For cutting into a corner, I go as far as I can with the grinder and hand chisel the corner (only about an inch square) then dress it with the grinder when the panel is out and you can get to it.
Nibblers are great for flat sheet metal but don't like bumps and pressings. For car bodywork I would not bother with a nibbler.
A good pair of tin-snips is VERY useful for fabricating the odd panel/patch so get a good one (left AND right handed if you can afford).
Machine Mart do grinders for £15 but they are low powered and stall if you abuse them. The advantage is though that they are lightweight and small. REALLY handy for upside-down work, but they don't last that long 'cause they are £15!!!
Usually, if you are going for that type of machine then buy two if you are doing a full restoration as you will wear them out.
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:19 pm
by bigginger
I used the saw for removing the floors on one of the PUs, and found it easier to be certain of avoiding the chassis. As I remember, I used a grinder to cut the bits over the chassis itself, with a 20 inch cold chisel to lever the floor up and away a bit. I would't fancy doing it with a hand nibbler, though I'm sure it's possible.
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:06 am
by Packedup
Cam wrote:A grinder is a FAR more useful tool than a saw because you can cut AND grind! For car resto work it's got to be a grinder because you can't grind down welds with a saw! icon_lol.gif
Ah, the welding has yet to happen, and a grinder will be on the shopping list - This is about the best tool for the job in hand, which is chopping up a couple of cars (anyone want a part stripped and rear end damaged Dolomite before it dies? Thought not ;) ) and then chopping the rubbish out of the pickup cab. What I'm trying not to do is say "We need 100 quid's worth of tools right now" as it might put them off, so going for a little and often to avoid financial shock to the people paying
Nibblers are great for flat sheet metal but don't like bumps and pressings. For car bodywork I would not bother with a nibbler.
A good pair of tin-snips is VERY useful for fabricating the odd panel/patch so get a good one (left AND right handed if you can afford).
Somewhere I have some surprisingly not bad Focus own range straight cut aviation style snips. I quite like them, but I fancy the idea of trying out a nibbler sometime and I was under the impression they're a bit less "fussy" to work with when chopping a long way into a sheet. But I'm willing to be corrected on that
bigginger wrote:I used the saw for removing the floors on one of the PUs, and found it easier to be certain of avoiding the chassis. As I remember, I used a grinder to cut the bits over the chassis itself, with a 20 inch cold chisel to lever the floor up and away a bit. I would't fancy doing it with a hand nibbler, though I'm sure it's possible.
Sounds like a good way to do it

I liked the idea of getting in there with something less brutal than a grinder, esecially over the chassis areas, but a hand nibbler would probably be quite hard work compared to a power tool, so I might just try and be careful with a grinder.
Now to work on getting the tools (saw tomorrow, grinder hopefully soon) and parts for it all - The long wanted list will probably grow as I remember stuff, and it'd be nice to see it start shrinking in the not too distant future!

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:44 am
by Cam
Packedup,
Well I just did not want you wasting your money on a tool you were only going to use for a weekend, but if you want a saw then go for it!
A hand nibbler can be a pain to use for large areas. Power nibblers are much better, but awkward to use (except on flat sheet steel) and would be virtually useless for cutting out sections on a car.
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 2:44 am
by Packedup
Cam wrote:Packedup,
Well I just did not want you wasting your money on a tool you were only going to use for a weekend, but if you want a saw then go for it!

Not my money!
But seriously, if it was just for chopping up one car, or getting out one floor then I'd agree, but it's the sort of thing that'll get at least as much use as a grinder. There's 2 cars to be chopped, the pickup to be de-rotted, I'm still hoping to get that 2 door (which has now gotten "parts car status", to which I answered given the chance I'd use all the parts inlcuding logbook, in a roadworthy capacity ;) ) and that will need a fair amount of trimming on some of the flat sections, then there's pliles of scrap that could so with becoming smaller to weigh in - I wasn't sure which would be the better tool, a saw or grinder, as I've never used a saw so didn't know if they were great, or garbage. Having had a positive opinion on here it's saw first, grind later
A hand nibbler can be a pain to use for large areas. Power nibblers are much better, but awkward to use (except on flat sheet steel) and would be virtually useless for cutting out sections on a car.
I'd love a power nibbler just for those odd times I'm cutting sheet, but it really is a tool I can't justify. If I had a compressor then air ones don't look too expensive, but otherwise it's hand or none I reckon. Going by what's been said, I think I'll stick with none for now at least. There's plent of other tools needed more urgently, like sockets that actually fit and screwdrivers that still have recogniseable heads!
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 12:39 am
by Packedup
Got the saw today (and just missed getting a parking ticket as I had to use the "no waiting" bay outside Argos, and shot off as the warden was ticketing the car infront of mine! I'm right in thinking they can't fine me if they don't ticket me, aren't I?) and used it in anger on some quarter inch alloy angle. The blade seems a bit rubbish, but I suppose that's expected with cheap tools, the main thing is the bit with teh lotor I suppose. The blade seems to have a bit of wobble, not suree if that's be design or poor quality, but still to qunatify, 2 of us took about 3 hours to make 3 cuts with a hacksaw. On my own in an hour I'd made about 8 or 10 cuts, and most of the time was taken moving around to get the saw in.
Suffice to say, it was easier to chop this stuff up with a saw than a grinder, and far far easier than doing it by hand. I'm pretty happy I asked on here, otherwise I may well have got a grinder instead, and today wouldn't have been quite so much fun

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 1:15 am
by bigginger
Nah, the blade wobbles a bit on the DeWalt too, and thet're pretty easy to bend too - annoying... Get a stock of spare blades, and keep the fence on the metal

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 8:20 am
by paulk
Just a small point
If you do grind Aluminium use a Stone grinding disc Not a steel one.
I don't know why but the steel ones catch light after a while in ally.
And like Ginge says the blades wobble no matter what, just keep it hard against the work. And keep the blade screw tight, ours (makita) used to undo itself every other cut and drop the screw in the most awkward places.
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 11:17 am
by bigginger
Boring safety point - The DeWalt has a 'blade lock' switch, but I imagine the corded ones don't - either use the switch or unplug whenever you change the blade, it's all too easy to press the go button accidentally while changing the blade. Ouch...