Morris Minor Owners Club

How easy is it to change the propshaft UJ's? Only I don't think I can live with the vibration above 50mph any more and I'd quite like to be able to go a bit faster than 50...
I'm pretty sure it's the rear UJ that's the cause as I can feel some play in it when I wiggle it. I tried unbolting and rotating it 180deg on the diff in case it was just a balance thing but it's just as bad.

And will the gearbox piddle oil out the back as soon as I remove the propshaft?

And will the gearbox LEAK oil out the back as soon as I remove the propshaft?

Yes unless the level is too low! You can drain the gearbox oil from the drain plug to make the job less messy and it doesn't hurt to change the gearbox oil every so often.

If you have severe vibrations you need to get it fixed ASAP as these vibrations will cause damage to other components (eg the gearbox and the diff bearings). If you can feel slack in the UJ's they should be changed, however they need to be wrecked before they cause big vibrations so there might be something else wrong as well.

If you have never changed U/Js then reading the instructions will
appear daunting but it is a reasonably easy job although you must
be very careful not to get the needle roller bearings out of position.
When you buy the U/Js make sure you buy the ones with a grease
nipple, they will last for much longer since you can top up the grease.
If your vibration has gradually worsened then yes, it is probably the
U/Js but if it has always been there then have a very careful look
at the Pinion flange on the diff where it bolts to the prop shaft. You
only need a slightly 'out of true' flange to give vibration. I had to
change my pinion flange because the vibration started at exactly
48MPH as someone had obviously hit it with something hard! You
would need to chock both front wheels and put the rear axle on
STURDY AXLE STANDS so that you can turn the rear wheels so
as to observe the prop shaft rotating.

Hi out there, can anyone answer two questions for me, 1) what problems will be encounted in refitting the prop shaft that was not pre mark for alignment when it was remove, 2) engine cable steady cut short on the removal of engine. I have just acquired a 1960 948cc MM, averything was stripped down and put in various box by its previous in 1981 with the intention of doing a complete retoration on it, he is now 78 and cannot move like he use to, so now I have the job of sifting through all the boxs to put it back again. I hope I don't take that long(I'm 60)

If the prop is going to be unbalanced in the first position when
you refit it then it is simply a matter of undoing it and turning it
through 180degrees as it only fits in two positions(the four bolt
holes are not equidistant). Do not understand question 2?

The (probably too) obvious answer to Q2 is ''no bother, fit a new one" - and curse the person who cut the old one...

Thanks Willie. BG were can I get a engine steady cable

Most, if not all Minor places sell them.

£3.25 + VAT from ESM:
http://shop.morrisminorspares.co.uk/adv ... 9f4bfc2722

Thanks Cam, I just put a order in today, not to worry I need a lot more this yet befor I put it all back together, ( complete set of wings).
Jimmy

If you are quick, I think you can add to your order if it has not been dispatched. Best bet is to give them a ring first thing in the morning...

Its too late, I placed the order with Nigel this morning and he said that it would be going out in tonights post.
Jimmy

BTW, as Ray and I agreed a few weeks back, wear thick gloves when removing the cut one - the ends of the strands are SHARP, and have a habit of sticking in under your skin.

Well, the vibration is new. I changed the rear axle some weeks ago and everything was smooth and quiet after that, until about two weeks ago when this vibration started. The only other thing that changed was that I swapped the wheels around, but since then I've had a new tyre put on the only rear that was moved and the vibration's just the same. It's also worse with no engine load, i.e. when gently lifting off or, worse still, coasting at 45-50mph. This ironically means I can go up hills faster than I can go down them!

If I try to drive at 55mph (which I don't at the moment) I can't actually see anything in the rear-view mirror as it's shaking so much...btw, anyone know if you can get replacement rubber suction cup thingies for them?

If I try to drive at 55mph (which I don't at the moment) I can't actually see anything in the rear-view mirror as it's shaking so much...

That implies you need to fix it before the whole car falls apart... (As I found out from bitter experience)

btw, anyone know if you can get replacement rubber suction cup thingies for them?

The one I got from Bull Motif a few months ago didn't fit the mirror at all, but did at least stick to the screen (I attached it to the mirror support with sellotape ). I've heard far worse reports about the Birmingam ones.

STIG....no sure but your symptoms of the vibrations being worse
off load suggests that play in the U/Js will be able to cause problems
off load which would be less noticeable when the joints are tightened
up by being under load and therefore less sloppy??

...and Halfrauds do a 'sucker' rear view mirror pretty cheaply. Could be an easy/emergency answer.

Willie wrote:STIG....no sure but your symptoms of the vibrations being worse
off load suggests that play in the U/Js will be able to cause problems
off load which would be less noticeable when the joints are tightened
up by being under load and therefore less sloppy??

Yeah, that was my thinking too. I've ordered new U/J's (ESM do them with a grease nipple) so that's tomorrow's entertainment planned then...