Morris Minor Owners Club

Well, that's a bit of an overstatement. The alternator hits - at about 2k rpm, 14.7 volts, anywhere below that it's only giving about 13.5 volts.

If I dare to switch the headlamps on (or indicators, or brake lights), or worse still the lights and the heater, then we cease to be charging and switch over to discharging pretty rapidly (or at least, 12.3/4 volts(ish) up to maybe 13.3ish volts at 2k rpm and above).

I've:

- replaced the fuse box with a thoroughly cleaned one
- cleaned and made tighter every single connector on the fuse box
- cleaned / wiggled / attempted to clean the huge lucar block just under the fuse box
- soldered the wire that Charlie Ware's left twisted together (brown/yellow off the alternator)
- Attempted to clean and tighten all the connectors on the back of the alternator...

All to no avail.

Well, that's not strictly true; when I replaced the fuse box a couple of weeks back, that fixed the problem - at least for a week or two. But today it's had no effect.

I've got to drive down to Reading tomorrow; and I'd really rather have lights and heater as options. Am I looking in the wrong place? Is there something obvious I've forgotten?

Anyone got any suggestions?! Help...?

Dear Kate,

No suggestions for a cure (as such) - should I leave the battery charger plugged in & outside the garage?

Colin

p.s. I don't have jump leads any more

Hello Kate,

make sure the fan belt is tight. It sounds more mechanical than electrical as you do have some output.

Alec

Alec - cheers, we've done that ((three times!) I should have said that really, doh!) - it's now tighter than I'd've normally done it by choice, if it is still slipping then I'm a bit stuffed :-/

Colin, well, as long as it's not dark or raining then I can make it home (although it might be 'wise' for me to take the fricking charger with me)...

Hello Kate,

as you hadn't mentioned it I wondered?.

Perhaps I was wrong regarding it being mechanical?, if all connections are good then it points to the alternator itself (I'm presuming something like a 17ACR).
Exchange units are not too expensive, but you could try a scrap yard as a quick check to see if you still have the same problem, or borrow one if anyone you know has one?

Alec

Hello Kate,

further on the fan belt, if (and it is not very common) it is so worn that the bottom of the belt rides in the bottom of the pulley then it will never drive no matter how tight. Certainly it doesn't need to be 'drum' tight.

Alec

Alec wrote:Perhaps I was wrong regarding it being mechanical?, if all connections are good then it points to the alternator itself (I'm presuming something like a 17ACR).
Exchange units are not too expensive, but you could try a scrap yard as a quick check to see if you still have the same problem, or borrow one if anyone you know has one?

Uh, well, this is what I'm *fearing*, that the Alternator is on it's way out; but that would be both distressing and suprising as it's was brand new only a couple of years ago. I've got an unknown (slightly noisy) spare in the garage, but was hoping not to fit it...

alec wrote:further on the fan belt, if (and it is not very common) it is so worn that the bottom of the belt rides in the bottom of the pulley then it will never drive no matter how tight. Certainly it doesn't need to be 'drum' tight.

's a new fan belt; the last one got contaminated with oil when I did the engine swap, and so I replaced it... it's still got some play in the longest side, about 3/4 inch, probably (which is a bit tighter than I normally go for).

Hello Kate,

a couple of years, well it is not uncommon and the ones I've changed it has been a regulator fault.

Alec

My Triumph never gives much over 13v with the lights on, put the rear demist and heater on and it's just under. Never had a problem as a result of the low figures though

Most likely culprit is the alternator itself, but I wouldn't worry about it too much. Whereas I would worry about the one I was asked about this afternoon - The warning light has been flickering "for a while, flickers on and off with the indicators as well", was this anything to worry about...

My Triumph never gives much over 13v with the lights on, put the rear demist and heater on and it's just under. Never had a problem as a result of the low figures thoug

Sadly, I've played this game before, and found my car stopped in the right hand lane of a very busy road after an evening of darkish-lights-on-running; and thus am incredibly wary. Especially since it's changed.

It used to give 14.7v even at idle (around 900rpm); and when I cleaned up the fusebox before; that's what happened, it perked up and sat in the place it was sitting.

Now it's not doing that, and it's not going to be good if I need to drive her in winter. I guess I should gird my loins and go out and see if that other alternator works. Sadly I can't test it until it's on, really.

In the spirit of... uh. Something. Are there any scrappy vehicles which have suitable for A+ engine'd car alternators with more capacity than the Lucas ACR19 (I think that's what it was, off the top of my head) - and indeed a greater reliability.

I know Alternators are not exactly the stuff of reliability dreams, but my Yugo managed 12 years with just the one, my mum's pug is 15 and that's still got its original alternator, the cavalier did 240,000 miles on one alternator over 12 years, and yet here I am, on my third (going on 4th) frickin' alternator in 3 years.

Hello Kate,

my Triumph runs at 15 volts on its own voltmeter and I would worry at 13.
I have had ACRs run for years and had others pack in quite quickly, as I said they are not expensive so that is probably why the reliabilty is variable.

Kate, I agree, you'll have to do a swap to see but they are fairly easy to change. (My daughters Rover 25's alternator is noisy now and I don't fancy changing that in a couple of minutes)

Alec

Alec wrote:Hello Kate,

my Triumph runs at 15 volts on its own voltmeter and I would worry at 13.

You lucky so and so! On their own meters I've never seen more than the high 13s, and that's been on at least three I can remember! Diving down as low as 12 on the Smiths guage isn't uncommon on one of the cars if I have everything running

Anyway, for a more powerful alternator, try looking at posher A series Metros, and Montego and Maestros of all sorts. As far as I know the diesel Montego (so probably Maestro too) alternator is pretty gutsy, and is either a stright fit or a very easy fit.

Might be easier to find a Monty than a Metro in the breakers nowadats, and you'd be wanting a Vanden Plas, GS or MG Metro for the beefier alternator IIRC. Bit late in the day to find a breakers anyway, so it might be a matter of push your luck or try your spare I suppose

Well, I've got an apology to make. It's not a Lucas Alternator at all. It's Valeo.

Anyone want to guess what was wrong? Go on? Here's a hint, the name of the problematic component is in the title of the topic...

Yeah, switching it for my rough-came-with-the-ital engine, sat in a garage for 10 years, rusty, not-100%-smooth running alternator instantly cured all the problems (although the side lights promptly stopped working... *sigh* Further wiggling of things made them work again. I think need all new bullet/lucar and spade connectors everywhere).

So, I've stuck the semi-duff alternator in the boot ('cos I'm not sure how long this one's going to last).

Can anyone guess what this noise is:

"Swoosh-click...*sigh*...Flick...flick...flick...flick...flick...flick...flick...flick...flick...flick..."

Yep, that's the noise of me looking through all my recipts to see when they fitted the alternator so I can see if I can get *another* replacement.

Anyone want to suggest how long an alternator should last?

You are talking diodes here so they could last donkeys years or
weeks. Like all the modern 'improvements' alternators are wonderful
whilst they are working but not nearly as reliable as the old dynamos.

Ah, but I was debating the whole thing about it lasting a 'reasonable' amount of time. Sadly, though, although I can find the original fitting receipt (Nov '02); I can't find the one's from the 2 replacements I got as the original failed.

Ne'r mind, I guess 3 years service out of a cheapy pattern one is... uh, well, it's awful. But not really worth arguing over.

To the scrap yard I shall go, and obtaining of a Lucas alternator shall be had. Or something.

I've got a new one if you want to borrow/test, BTW

Aye, and I remember when we put the engine in our friend John commented that he thought the alternator off the Ital could be cleaned up quite easily...

Anyone want to suggest how long an alternator should last?

aftermarket 'pattern' parts should last longer than the warranty
Any longer than than that, they could have cut the component cost a bit more and ensured to continue the replacment market in the future

Kate, I know how you feel. I have gone through a silly amount of alternators in the last 10 or so years with my Minis, MGs and Moggies... oh and the Rover too. and the Fiesta... and the XR3i... good grief! I've replaced at least one alternator on every car I've owned!! Except my current Rover.... damn, should not have said that... but I DID have a saga of trying to get the correct mounting bolt out of Rover... (I never did get it ). So, in short, alternators bad, dynamos good, which is why I'm keeping the dynamo on my '63.

For info, 9 times out of 10 it was the regulator pack, the other time(s) it was the bearings.

It's you, Cam, not the alternators. In 20 years of car ownership, I've only ever fitted an alternator to replace a dynamo. Mind you, with the press they get on here, I'm worried now...