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Engine/Clutch pedal chaos
Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2005 10:37 pm
by UNCLEGRISMOND
The engine in my van recently started cutting out when the clutch pedal is depressed (like me), whether in gear or not. First I had the main bearings & thrust washers replaced, which made no difference. Then the clutch was replaced (it's a standard clutch), but with a roller thrust bearing. The engine still runs nicely and the gears are easily engaged but I've still got the same problem. What should I try next, gearbox perhaps - any suggestions?
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 7:47 am
by Multiphonikks
Hi
Every minor I've ever driven lowers engine revs when you depress the clutch, but not stop... So I'm wondering if your idle speed is set a wee bit too slow...
Nikki
cut out
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 4:15 pm
by Willie
If it only cuts out when stationary then follow NIKKIs' advice. If it
cuts out when moving then check the earth strap which is fitted to
the gearbox cross-member AND the wires which thread past the
clutch operating mechanism, they may be chaffing.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 5:07 pm
by bmcecosse
You need to decide if it's an electrical problem that's cutting it out, or is it just frictional drag. So - up the idle speed a bit and then see what happens. But it does sound like the clutch mechanism is somehow catching a wire - or maybe the engine is moving forwards too much and pulling on an ignition wire. Check all the wiring connectors.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 7:37 pm
by UNCLEGRISMOND
It gradually grinds to a halt when I pull up & push the clutch in, so it seems frictional to me. Initially icreasing the idle speed worked, but not for very long. I'll check the wiring when I next have ago at it, but I think it's all ok
cut out
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 8:37 pm
by Willie
Agreed, that sounds frictional as opposed to electrical but it's quite
a mystery since you have replaced the clutch etc. does it still happen
when you depress the clutch in neutral as well as in gear??
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 9:15 pm
by UNCLEGRISMOND
Yes, in gear or in neutral if I push the clutch pedal down she slowly grinds to a very depressing halt. The gears are not noisy and are easy to engage. I'va also had the rubber engine mountings renewed.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 9:28 pm
by Packedup
Other than the obvious friction possibilities, could it be the mass of the geartrain (well, clutch plate and input shaft) are helping keep the engine running, by acting as a secondary flywheel?
My money would still be on friction losses, but if the thrust have been replaced and endfloat checked, then I struggle to see what metal to metal contact there would be causing this

Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 9:57 pm
by simmitc
Just a quick thought, check that you've got 20/50 oil in tthe box. Some people wrongly put thicker oil in, and this can increase drivetrain friction. Another thought is that there's not enough free play on the pedal, and with it pushed right down it's overthrowing the fork and the release bearing becomes off centre. In fact, that's a thought: the non-standard release bearing might not be as good as you think, and that's locking up. I'd go back to the standard carbon bearing and try that. Good luck.
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 10:05 pm
by UNCLEGRISMOND
The correct oil is in the box. The clutch had the standard bearing when the problem occurred. I'll recheck the pedal adjustment when I next have a go at it. - Cheers Gazza.
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 6:50 am
by UNCLEGRISMOND
Thanks to all of the above for your help. I'll not be back online 'til friday 09/09, hopefully by then I'll have managed to borrow a garage & take the engine out to have a look for myself at the weekend. so, if anyone else has got any ideas, I'll read them on friday evening. - Many thanks Gazza
Re: cut out
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 1:25 pm
by Packedup
Willie wrote: the earth strap which is fitted to
the gearbox cross-member
So
that's where it goes! When trying to wire up the pickup last week I couldn't for the life of me figure out where the earth strap lived. So in the end I dug out another solenoid to starter lead, drilled out the smaller end and ran it from the starter top bolt to the lower right damper bolt.
I still think the OP's problem is somehow metal on metal friction related, just to get back on topic

Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 4:14 pm
by Kevin
When the clutch was done did you also replace the spigot bearing bush that the input shaft goes into as this can affect alignment and is often overlooked / forgotten when the clutch is changed and it helps with gearbox life as well and its a cheap part.
http://shop.morrisminorspares.co.uk/pro ... 2a54911862
stalling
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 5:27 pm
by Willie
I suppose the question should be ' did this fault just appear or was
it introduced suddenly after something was done to the car? KEVIN
has a good point re the spigot bearing and I am also thinking that
you could have the wrong Clutch Operating Lever' (the one which
holds the release bearing). These levers are different on the 948
and 1098 engines and I had the wrong one fitted when I bought
my car! This puts everything out of kilter when the clutch is operated
and could cause the excessive friction? Look at Kevins link above
(ESM) and view the two different levers under 'clutch'.