Morris Minor Owners Club

I haven’t had enough cars. Only recently, I bought my fifth: a Caterham. I had always promised myself one and figured I’d better get it now before I’m too old to get in and out of it.
I’ve told myself I will keep it for a year and then move it on, finally satisfying a longing I’ve had since my early twenties.

However, at some point, I must have a Morris Minor. I think the bug set in early—my grandfather had one, and to the young me, it was magical, such a characterful thing with its winking flip-up trafficators.

I owned an Issigonis Mini twenty years ago because I thought it was his masterpiece, but lately, I’m beginning to think his finest work debuted in 1948. So I’ve been thinking a lot about Moggies recently.

My ideal would be to keep the car as near standard as possible—though I wouldn’t baulk at one equipped with front disc brakes and a 1275cc A-Series.

I don’t want a road burner; my main interest lies in improving its suspension and road-holding, while keeping the existing ironmongery in place, lever arm dampers and all.

While browsing online, I’ve come across a few interesting developments and I’d be really keen to hear what forum members make of them:

1. AJB Engineering Adjustable Damper Valves: All the clever people say that lever dampers are horrible, archaic, but has anyone ever tried these on a Minor? The website now looks to be defunct.
2. Rotoshim Dampers: These were developed as replacements for Houdaille dampers in vintage Fords, but have been adapted successfully to an Austin Seven racer. Might they be adapted to replace the rear Armstrong units on a Minor? https://rotoshim.com/
3. Teflon/PTFE Interleaf Spring Liners: Inserting thin Teflon/PTFE liners between the leaves of the rear leaf springs. This reduces interleaf friction, allowing the rear spring pack to cycle smoothly and articulate as designed, improving ride compliance. Cadillac did this when turning the Chevrolet Nova into the 1977 Seville.
4. 1969 IMechE Paper Anti-Tramp Mounting: An idea from an old Institution of Mechanical Engineers paper that uses an extended upper reaction leaf/clamp arrangement right at the spring pad. It mechanically restrains the axle casing from rotating under torque, curing "S-bend" leaf spring wind-up and axle tramp at the source without adding bulky trailing traction bars https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM ... 68dnTkd19C
5. FAB-TEK Axle Locator Concept: https://www.fast-mg.com/productsThis is an ingenious, subtle, and cost-effective ($150) kit developed by the late GM engineer and MGB racer Dave Headley of FAB-TEK Peoducts). Designed for the MGB, it is symmetrical and provides consistent handling in right and left turns (unlike a Panhard rod). It's so simple that MG enthusiasts have kept quiet about the exact mechanics to protect the business.
Even though it's built for an MGB, I wonder if the principle could be applied to a Minor. After all, if it’s simple, cheap, and works better than a Panhard rod, it’s got to be worth investigating.

As a few MG forum quotes put it:
“The Fab-Tek kit has parts for the front spring eyes... parts for the axle to spring attachment point and parts for the rear spring hangers. It's simple but ingenious, buy the kit and lose the loose rear end.”


“I love simple and I love less makes more and that what Headley rear suspension is. At first I had my doubts about the lack of a 'true' lateral control device, but Dave assured me it worked. So less crap and better handling...”


“I did speak to Dave about his locator kit and what I got out of our conversation was the locator kit used special spacers at the fronts of the springs and solid shackle bushes at the back.”


I haven't really thought about wheels or tyres yet, though I recall reading in some book on the Minor some time ago that a rallyist recommended the fitment of 13” wheels for reasons I can’t now remember.

Is there any merit to these ideas, or should I get out more?

Personally, I don't think there is anything wrong with Armstrong lever-acting dampers provided they are in good working condition and they actually have oil in them. They are available on an exchange basis so there is no reason to be driving a car with clapped out dampers. Leaf springs are not all of the same quality. If you want the best then a specialist company such as Jones Springs is the place to go rather than buying them off the shelf from the main suppliers. Rubber bushes are not of the quality that they were in the past (as seems to be the the case with many rubber components) and so polyurethane bushes are often favoured. Even these are not all the same; Superflex are very good.

My Minor was my first car at 17 which was a long time ago. It was very tired and over the course of several years it had a rolling restoration with most of the mechanicals done by me but not the bodywork. Rebuilding the front and rear suspension with rebuilt Armstrong dampers, new leaf springs from Jones Springs and Superflex poly bushes everywhere made a huge difference. The car remains original except for the bush material but drives very well. It is a standard 1098cc and not for flinging round corners.

As with other prospective or new owners I would suggest driving a few Minors (join the MMOC) and if you buy one, get that up to excellent mechanical condition with the original spec before making decisions about changing things. Otherwise, how would you know what they are like in good condition? Too often I hear people wanting to change this and change that because, for instance, "the brakes are awful on these cars" when in fact the brakes are not actually working properly on their car.

Stephen

Ernst - Stephen is spot on with his comments. Issigonis' "finest work" was famed for its roadholding. Your grandfather saw no need to change the dampers in his car. Nor do most. You have yourself said that you want to "keep the car as near standard as possible."

Wait until you get one, use it, then decide if you want all the bells and whistles. You might find you enjoy a Minor as it is, your intended modifications will take it far from standard.