Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello peeps,
The lock tabs on my front dampers have seen better days - to the point where their effectiveness is compromised. So I want to replace them. It isn't necessary to remove the dampers to do this, but I am wondering if it would be best to jack up under the suspension arms to reduce torsion bar load before removing the bolts and then replacing them with new lock tabs?

I would jack the car up on the chassis rail on the side you are working on. Support with the usual piece of wood on the chassis rail and an axle stand. Then as you suggest, jack under the lower suspension arm only enough to unload the suspension. This is what I did when I replaced the front Armstrong dampers.

Stephen

When I replaced the shock absorber bolts, I’m going back years, I didn’t bend the lock washers over. The idea being after a while I’d check them and maybe tighten if needed.
I never did tap the washers over, ——- years later on a subsequent mot, the tester pulled me on the fact !

If you do two at a time, I would of thought you do not need to jack up the car. With just its own weight two would maintain position whilst changing two and their locktab When all are back then torque up and secure locktabs.

svenedin wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2026 8:16 pm I would jack the car up on the chassis rail on the side you are working on. Support with the usual piece of wood on the chassis rail and an axle stand. Then as you suggest, jack under the lower suspension arm only enough to unload the suspension.

Stephen

Thanks, yes, that is what I thought (but forgot to mention putting the car on axle stands first!)

les wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2026 8:46 pm When I replaced the shock absorber bolts, I’m going back years, I didn’t bend the lock washers over. The idea being after a while I’d check them and maybe tighten if needed.
I never did tap the washers over, ——- years later on a subsequent mot, the tester pulled me on the fact !

Yes, maybe not a bad idea to tighten and then re-check after a bit of mileage.....

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2026 10:26 pm If you do two at a time, I would of thought you do not need to jack up the car. With just its own weight two would maintain position whilst changing two and their locktab When all are back then torque up and secure locktabs.

Yes, I did wonder about that, but thought it might be better to err on the side of caution.....

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2026 8:55 am

svenedin wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2026 8:16 pm I would jack the car up on the chassis rail on the side you are working on. Support with the usual piece of wood on the chassis rail and an axle stand. Then as you suggest, jack under the lower suspension arm only enough to unload the suspension.

Stephen

Thanks, yes, that is what I thought (but forgot to mention putting the car on axle stands first!)

I know you know but I was careful with what I wrote as others will read this thread in future and they may be new to Minors.

Stephen

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2026 8:57 am

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2026 10:26 pm If you do two at a time, I would of thought you do not need to jack up the car. With just its own weight two would maintain position whilst changing two and their locktab When all are back then torque up and secure locktabs.

Yes, I did wonder about that, but thought it might be better to err on the side of caution.....

This is the difference between Bill with a lifetime on the tools in the trade where time is money and just get it done and us DIY owners who are cautious and have more time.

Stephen

svenedin wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2026 9:14 am

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2026 8:57 am

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2026 10:26 pm If you do two at a time, I would of thought you do not need to jack up the car. With just its own weight two would maintain position whilst changing two and their locktab When all are back then torque up and secure locktabs.

Yes, I did wonder about that, but thought it might be better to err on the side of caution.....

This is the difference between Bill with a lifetime on the tools in the trade where time is money and just get it done and us DIY owners who are cautious and have more time.

Stephen

Work smart not hard, I'm fully retired Stephen so time is not an issue. But I would still find the simplest way to achieve a result, even with fully equipped workshop at my disposal.
Having said that the OP should carry out his repair in the way that makes him feel the safest with the facilities available to him.

I still maintain that, jacked up or not its safer to only remove two bolts at a time so keeping the damper secured to the bulkhead at all times

With the weight off the wheel there is no dangerous side load on the shock mounting, just the weight of the wheel/swivel assembly pulling outward. The main problem will be removing the outboard bolts due to the arm blocking them. The weight of the car alone is not enough to move the arm high enough to pull the bottom bolt. You will probably need to undo the top trunnion connection.

3 bolts are easy. 1 might need some fiddling.

Stephen

If you remove the lower stop, will the arm drop enough to access the lower bolt with chassis lifted and wheel fully drooped.

les wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2026 8:46 pm When I replaced the shock absorber bolts, I’m going back years, I didn’t bend the lock washers over. The idea being after a while I’d check them and maybe tighten if needed.
I never did tap the washers over, ——- years later on a subsequent mot, the tester pulled me on the fact !

Is this a good time to mention that, to the best of my knowledge, Basil's Front Dampers were last fitted around 1999 and he was MOT'd regularly until I brought him....
All 4 tabs are just bent over on the top bolts.

Well, we all know these damper bolts can become loose, even with the lock tabs, so I suppose it is worth periodically checking them for tightness.

I am sure I have read the bolts were re torqued on the first service when they were new. For this reason when I refit new tabs, I leave the tabs open for the first few 100 miles so I can retorque them before turning them over

mowogg wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2026 7:11 am I am sure I have read the bolts were re torqued on the first service when they were new. For this reason when I refit new tabs, I leave the tabs open for the first few 100 miles so I can retorque them before turning them over

Makes sense. What is the torque setting?

I am unaware of any torque setting for the damper bolts. The bolts just have to be done up tight.
The lock tabs and torque settings are totally ineffective because as you tighten the bolts the alloy body of the damper is squashed - so that whilst the lock tab stops the bolt from turning the holding efficiency of the bolt is reduced over a very short period of time due to damper body compression.
The most effective method of securing the bolts is to use a 3mm flat plated drilled and shaped to fit under the two bolts vertically so as to spread the load over the damper body. Slightly longer cap headed Allen bolts are used with flat and spring washers under the bolt heads. See photo below.
With the above method I have never had a bolt come loose.
It should be noted that the damper function has been removed from the damper and the damper is only used as the top link so that there is considerably less loading on the damper bolts.