Morris Minor Owners Club

I occasionally switch on the ignition to make sure the float bowl is full of fuel. Last Saturday I did that in readiness for a drive on Sunday and left the key in the switch.
Come Sunday morning, sit in car and notice the key is in the on position, no oil and ign. warning lights on speedometer. Yes, for whatever reason I had left the ignition on the morning before (distracted, senior moment?).
As a result the battery was totally drained. Fortunately I have a booster pack which, when connected, was enough to start the engine. It would appear that the coil has survived.
I took a chance and went out for a 10 miles drive. Throughout that the ammeter didn't fall below a 20 amps charge rate (dynamo).
Connected my old Crypton charger at home, trickle charged at 2 amps for 24 hours before it reached a 100% charge. It looks like the battery has survived too. My tester shows a !00% state of health,100% charge and a CCA of 329 (330 CCA 038 battery).
Confession over!

The coil will only overheat and be destroyed if the ignition is left on and the points are closed. If the points happen to be open, then the coil is not in circuit.

All I do when I start the car after it has sat unused for a while is pause for a few seconds at the ignition on position and wait for the fuel pump to fill the float bowl in a few clicks. Then I just start the engine and go.

Stephen

"The coil will only overheat and be destroyed if the ignition is left on and the points are closed."
Yes, I think luck was on my side and the points were open on one of the four lobes.
I do carry a spare coil, amongst other bits in the boot - just in case.

Quite honestly, it only takes a couple of seconds to fill the float chamber. There is absolutely no benefit in doing this the day before driving. As Stephen says, turn on ignition, fire up engine and drive off. Twas ever thus......

I don't understand why you feel the need to 'fill the float chamber' the day before. About 10 seconds of the key 'on' should be enough.
Fuel isn't that volatile the float chamber contents are going to evaporate in a few months.

As Stephen advises, all I do is turn on and wait for the ticking to ease off, or stop, that way I know the pump is working and there's no leaks... if it's still clicking after 10 sec, I pop the bonnet to check.

The primary of the coil is around 3 ohm. If the contacts are closed, the coil will take 4 Amps. So that's 48W.
So it will get about as hot as a 50W light bulb would. Not healthy for coil, especially without the airflow of normal motoring.
And a typical 40Ah battery would indeed get flattened in 10 hours (40/4).

It's just a useless habit I've had for years Berni. Only with older carburettored (is that a word?) engines though.
35Ah, 038 battery so it doesn't need many amperes to fully discharge over a 30 hours period.

When I know I am going on a longer journey I do what I jokingly call "pre-flight checks" the day before. This includes oil, water, tyre pressures, fuel and does include turning the ignition on so that I can see how much fuel I have and plan whether I should get fuel before the journey or during the journey. I have never (yet) left the ignition on.

Stephen

svenedin wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2026 11:23 am When I know I am going on a longer journey I do what I jokingly call "pre-flight checks" the day before. This includes oil, water, tyre pressures, fuel and does include turning the ignition on so that I can see how much fuel I have and plan whether I should get fuel before the journey or during the journey. I have never (yet) left the ignition on.

Stephen

I've always known it as the acronym "POWER".
Petrol
Oil
Water
Electrics
Rubber

Lesson learned. I have now definitely kicked that habit and most certainly will never do it again.

For some reason, which I ponder could be sticking float valves, if the car has been stood for a couple or a few weeks, it takes more starting than if for a week or so.

I tend to turn on the ignition and then turn the engine over, to get the oil moving, before pulling the choke.

Do you listen for fuel pump to tick then stop, before cranking, so you know the float chamber is full?

Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2026 10:11 am Do you listen for fuel pump to tick then stop, before cranking, so you know the float chamber is full?

I do that more for ensuring there's no leaks than that the float chamber is full...

Std practice for me Berni, as you say its also a leak test as well as knowing float bowl is full and needle valve is closing.
Nice thing about having SU pump and being able to hear the ticking.