Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi All

My crankshaft pulley took a whack and is now quite badly damaged. I have ordered a new one. The garage suggested buying a oil seal as well. But I don't know whether it is felt or rubber. Is it possible to tell please? I have a 1964 two door 1098 saloon.

Thanks

Rich

Your 1969 1098cc Minor will be fitted with a timing chain cover that has a lip seal fitted.
Make sure that your new timing chain cover is the lip seal type.
With the lip seal there is a flat oil thrower plate with a stamped 'F' on its front face which must be fitted facing forward.
Whilst you have the timing chain cover off and if not already fitted a duplex timing chain is a great modification and is cheap to procure.

Thanks for the tip. I'm looking at this kit

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... te-p830307

Will that come with the new seal as well please?

I ordered this crankshaft pulley.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... pe-p830244

Thanks

Rich

The lip seal is not part of the kit and will need to be ordered separately.
The concave washer is the latest style of crankshaft bolt/starter dog locking washer. One side of the washer is knocked down into the pulley recess and the other side against the side of the bolt/starter dog.
Just apply grease to both sides of the gasket. There is absolutely no need to apply gasket goo.
Fit the cover but do not tighten the bolts until you have fitted the pully. That helps centralise the seal on the pulley shaft.
Make sure that you align the two gears using one or more of the shims found on the crankshaft.
Check the end float of the camshaft gear when assembling.

There are actually two variants of the rubber front crankshaft seal. One is the standard neoprene one and the other is a later A+ engine seal made of Viton that is backwards compatible with the A-series. In addition there are standard and Klingersil timing cover gaskets with a significant price difference. To my mind to do the job absolutely properly needs the front of the car off. Just taking the radiator out does allow access but the view is restricted and it is awkward. With the front panel off you can sit on a stool and take your time. If the car has had the front panel off in the recent past it is easy to remove but if it has been a long time, it can be such a horrible job that I can understand why people would rather not do it. It helps a lot to have the proper tools such as 2BA sockets and spanners for the hockey stick nuts (and some of the lower edge of the front panel nuts).

It's important to inspect the timing cover mating face carefully. If it is damaged or distorted this can be the cause of leaks. It is also important to carefully observe the torques for the timing cover fixings, especially the smaller ones. In the past I have stripped the thread of one of these in my clumsiness.

Phil is of course correct that gunk should not be needed but Morris Minor Workshop tell me that they use Blue Hylomar as leaks from there are so common no matter how careful you are. Good thing about the Blue Hylomar is it comes off easily next time. Up to you!

Stephen

https://www.minispares.com/88g561-timin ... l-pre-1992 (Standard Oil Seal)
https://www.minispares.com/luf10006-tim ... over-91-on (Viton Oil Seal
)https://www.minispares.com/12a956b-timi ... -tensioner (standard gasket)
https://www.minispares.com/gug705803gm- ... uine-pre-a (Klingersil gasket)

If there are any leaks they will be at the lower part of the timing chain cover. This was recognised by BMC and they revised the shape of the flange and introduced a strengthening plate to help keep the cover tight to the front engine plate.
The strengthening plate is no longer available but a after market plate is available
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126867814036 ... 66dyM3aZwe.

As regards the oil seal and gaskets - the later BMC seals were produced in a orange colour. The timing chain cover gasket was of a much better material.