Morris Minor Owners Club

I had enough of my speedo needle oscillating wildly to and fro, and re-greasing the cable did not cure it. However, I noticed that where the cable exited the bulkhead, it had sagged down, putting a sharp bend in the routing. I got a new cable. I don't think the routing of the cable on late SII cars helps in this respect. Nor did the fact that the screenwash pipes had previously been fitted by a PO to exit from the same hole, so I re-routed those as well.
So this little mod/up-grade attached to the battery clamp ensures the cable keeps a nice smooth bend in the routing. Or is it a mod? I have never seen one on a car, but I have seen a photo of an engine bay with just the rubber ferrule (which the clamp fits around) remaining on the cable, but further up near the grommet - so were they fitted originally? Its the sort of thing that could easily go missing over the decades......
In any case, I now have a steady speedo needle reading for the first time in years

The cable on mine drops away quite sharply too but without any issues, however your modification gives a much better route.

That's very interesting!

It had never occurred to me that the routing of the speedo cable had an effect on the speedo needle wobble issue.

On series V cars like mine the speedo cable exits the bulkhead in different place to your photo. The cable then travels to the left (as looking from the front of the car) of the metal fuel pipe that goes to the fuel pump. The speedo cable is held in place by metal clips that help it to keep a graceful curve and also prevent it flapping about. Perhaps this is why I have never experienced severe speedo needle swinging about.

Thinking about this it makes sense. The inner cable is going to have a tendency to try to wind up the outer sleeve which at some point will "give" and then the cycle repeats causing the speedo needle to oscillate. If the cable has gentle curves and is prevented from moving around (by the clips mentioned in my car) then it is much less likely that the speedo needle will wobble badly.

Stephen

I think the reason the cable exit hole was moved more centrally in the 1000 models was to eliminate cable bends behind the dash (in the late SII the cable has to make a kind of 'S-shape' before exiting). But it also creates a gentler curve as it passes over the battery as shown in Stephen's picture.

I replaced the cable on Basil a couple of years or so, because of the +/- 15mph needle indication.
It fits fine using just the metal clip on the bodywork
His battery clamp is the higher 'top edge' style, but if I have problems in the future, I'll bear this fix in mind.

Available from Moss Europe, items 76 and 77: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/gau ... 16--05--02

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 08, 2026 10:18 am Available from Moss Europe, items 76 and 77: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/gau ... 16--05--02

I've seen them, but I've no idea where they are supposed to go originally.
Basil doesn't have it and when I looked at the LCV parts list (since I don't have a SII Car List, but the LCV List covers all versions) they're not fitted on the LCV at all (according to the list ). Very curious.
But it's good to know you solved your problem with it.
.

I suppose the advantage of the clip is that it keeps the cable from sagging down and bending over time, and although that *shouldn't* happen - mine did! It could get accidentally bent while faffing around in the area of the battery/petrol pump, perhaps. The only clue I have for where it goes is from AI ( ) which says "a clamp with a rubber bushing secures the cable near the battery." Where I put it seems the most logical place as far as I can see.