Master cylinder leak. What else do I need?

[Andmurph]

Hi, the brake pedal was getting longer and longer today and the new brake shoes fitted to the rear weren’t working as well as the oil covered ones they replaced…
Returning to the garage floor I found a small puddle of brake fluid under the drivers seat area. The rest of the brake system has been replaced in the last 12 months but I left the master cylinder.

An associated problem, I think.
If I tighten down the floor panel, the brake pedal is pressed down and the brakes are on hard. I tried to adjust the push rod to remedy this but couldn’t fix it. A few washers under the floor panel was my temporary fix.

It now seems a replacement master cylinder is needed. Is there anything else i should order at the same time please?

Many thanks

Andrew

[King Kenny]

I think I am right in saying that the two copper washers that go either side of the banjo are not included with a new master cylinder. I always anneel mine, and it is simple to do, but if you are unsure it may be better to get new ones.
On a side note are you aware of the hack to bend the torsion bar rather than dismantling the suspension to remove the retaining bolts? I use this method and have removed one of the flats on each bolt to make the job easier next time.

[Andmurph]

Thanks, I’ll order replacement washers. I wasn’t sure about the pushrod or yoke? Do I order these separately?

I have seen the hack to push down the torsion bar. I’ll take a more detailed look at the car next time I’m there.

Cheers

Andrew

[simmitc]

As long as the threads on the yoke and push rod are OK and neither is bent, then just re-use the existing ones.

[Andmurph]

Fantastic, thank you.

[Mervin]

shackles.jpg (179.02 KiB) Viewed 2934 times

"I have seen the hack to push down the torsion bar."
I have used that method a couple of times now and it worked for me.
The first time when replacing the master cylinder and the second to turn the two bolts the correct way after a clutch replacement(not by me). The MC had to be removed because one of the g/box crossmember bolt's captive nut had sheared off.
I use(d) three or four small "D" shackles, a piece of wood under the chassis leg and a long prybar to lever the torsion bar down sufficiently. The upper shackle has a diameter of 8mm and fits perfectly over the torsion bar and between that and the edge of the chassis leg.
Some do fit the bolts with the nut end at the torsion bar (e.g. my clutch) with the risk that the end of the bolt makes contact with and rubs against the torsion bar.