Morris Minor Owners Club

I bought a (Project) Traveller with standard 1098 Engine and I presume standard Ribbed Gearbox.

I can select only 1st and 2nd but even that does not feel correct and obviously should not need forcing.

I have rebuilt the gearbox with new bearings etc and attached the tail housing and can select all gears which engage with a positive movement (without the remote attached) - indicating the gearbox and tail housing are OK.

I have disassembled all the components from the remote housing and re assembled after a good clean and all look good and everything moved freely. However as soon as I insert the gearstick and screw down the three bolts and holding plate, the movement feel to bind almost everywhere and would only allow 1st and 2nd gear if lucky.

I have removed all the anti rattle springs and dents on the remote to ensure they are not causing any problems.

I am convinced the issue is with the remote somewhere but can't see what could be wrong as it is not a complex assembly.

Could I have an incorrect gearstick Any ideas please - ???

Is it the correct gearstick? That was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the heading of your post. However, I am 99.9% certain that you have the correct gearstick.

Have you tried slightly loosening off the plate that holds the gearstick in place? If that reduces the binding, then you will know the area that you need to focus on.

Don

I'm with Don with this, looks like the correct gear stick, top one is the smooth case.

Are you sure you have a ribcase gearbox? Post a picture

If it is a ribbed case are you sure the remote is for a ribbed case as the smooth case remote is shorter than the ribbed case remote so won't work on a ribbed case.

Thanks for all the contributions.

OK it is a ribbed gearbox - see photo

The gearstick is a Ribbed type with longer finger ( 1 inch)

So I started to think the remote was from a smooth case type as suggested - after some more research Casting numbers 2A 3411 do indeed point to a 998 smooth box remote.


Please see photo where I did not screw down the round holding plate all the way - in this position all seems to work correctly - tighten it down all the way and all binds up

Without the spring and plastic bush the gear stick works but is obviously way too slack.

So it looks like a Rib Box remote is needed but need to ensure it is a correct one marked 22A 480 as some on ebay are labelled 2A 3411 for 1098 cars which is clearly wrong

OK - I got a replacement remote, cleaned it all up and works a treat the gear stick seats correctly and all gears select smoothly

However, when i tighten up the reverse anti rattle bolt ( see photo) reverse is no longer possible.

This seems to lock up the little spring and ball bearing (5) against the reverse plunger (3).

If I back the anti rattle bolt off a bit it all works great.

I note this bolt is wired - is this bolt meant to be tightened down all the way or just tightened down enough to provide some friction to stop rattling and then wired off to stop it moving?

Well I don't have a Ribbed gearbox, but I would say it's likely you have answered your own question.

However, when i tighten up the reverse anti rattle bolt ( see photo) reverse is no longer possible.

This seems to lock up the little spring and ball bearing (5) against the reverse plunger (3).

If I back the anti rattle bolt off a bit it all works great.

I note this bolt is wired

It really depends on how far of 'a bit' you back it off, but given that it has been designed to be wire locked in position, I would suggest that is to allow adjustment of the spring tension on the Reverse Detent. If it was intended to be fully tightened, why wire lock it??
Though I would not expect it to be out as far as it is in your photo.

See this video of a gearbox overhaul rebuild. The nut appears to be fully in and he seems to gorilla it across..... I would suggest he has a similar issue.
https://youtu.be/rOOLmhyP78A?t=1776

Yes, I too have read that sometimes these gearboxes need a sharp push to engage reverse. These detents and springs in question are not an interlock as such but simply a means to ensure reverse is not selected without a bit of additional and deliberate effort. I have decided to back the bolt off and I have placed three washers on this bolt so it tightens up and provides reasonable resistance but does not need excessive force. I will wire the bolt up and see how it works when back on the road.

northernboy wrote: ↑Tue Jun 10, 2025 7:53 pm Yes, I too have read that sometimes these gearboxes need a sharp push to engage reverse. such but simply a means to ensure reverse is not selected without a bit of additional and deliberate effort.

That was really the concept in those days; just a bit of spring pressure.
In the mid 70s, I knew a guy who had a Mk2 Cortina, with an aftermarket, bolt-on, short gearstick remote 'adaptor'.
It basically bolted to the top of the transmission tunnel but connected in where the long stick was supposed to be.
He had to be extremely careful selecting gears as the 'gate' for reverse was a spring that must have been repurposed from a ballpoint pen...