Morris Minor Owners Club

How do you adjust the points on the fuel pump please?

You need a set of feeler gauges to measure that the gaps shown in the diagram are within the required tolerances. If not correct you can carefully bend the foot of the rocker assembly and also the top contact breaker blade where it rests on a ridge on the pedestal. The pump is very fussy about these adjustments being correct and ideally you would bench test the pump using a battery. These adjustments will not help if the points are dirty, corroded or pitted. Dirt can be cleaned off but badly pitted points need to be replaced.

Stephen

Morris/BL Workshop Manual Section B, contains several pages about servicing the pump.

If you haven't got one, it's highly recommended. Hard copies are available new, as reprints, and loose leaf one are often listed on ebay.

Publication AKD 530, it can be found online as a free pdf if you look for it.

Thank you for your information

I keep a tiny square of very fine Wet n Dry abrasive paper taped to the bulkhead next to the pump.
In an emergency this enables me to (gently) clean any errant contacts in situ.
I actually perform the above (followed by a squirt of switch cleaner) once a year anyway (especially before an overseas trip).
Rob Thomasson' s book suggests taking them out and rubbing them on a nearby kerbstone.
But, with due respect to Rob (an ex-colleague of mine!), that seems a much harder - and riskier - solution.

Cleaned points up, did a bench test, pump move slow twice and that's it, nothing more is happening, tried a few adjustments and still nothing

How 'old and tired' does it look?
Is it a single or double contact?
Single are considerably the older version, so an indication that it may need a full overhaul, because the diaphragm might have deteriorated with age.
Which sort of top has it got, is there anything fitted across the contacts?
Like this:
viewtopic.php?p=705184#p705184
.
Again, these features, or lack of, can identify a really old pump.

If you set the contact gap correctly, then the reluctance to operate correctly indicates a strip down is required.

Here's my one, I've been cleaning up,diaphragm seams OK but I need a gasket but can't find anyone selling just the gasket

I'm going to have an educated guess that the Earth Screw on that pump is a 2BA, the same size head as the 6 long ones that hold the body together.
With no arc suppressor fitted, I reckon that pump is early1960s or even earlier.
The point I'm making being that the number of times that pump has had the contacts cleaned, and the amount of material that has been removed, it probably needs setting up from scratch, which is why you couldn't get a satisfactory response from it.
How flexible is that diaphragm?
It could well be the original and needing replacement.
Chances are the valve discs are worn after many years; how often does in click once the key is switched on and not started?

You can get the gaskets direct from SU, though their new website shop is terrible to search through; but they are there.

Personally, I'd get an overhaul kit, change all the relevant parts and be done with .

It's not clicking at all, thats why I removed it, no fuel getting through, I sprayed easy start and it fired up, diaphragm is pretty flexible,
I'm not confident enough to do a complete overhaul on it, I'd end up messing it up.
Been trying to find a reconditioned one, but having no luck.

Is this the correct one for mine?

I don't think you've said if the car is Pos or Neg Earth....

That's the Electronic one for POSITIVE EARTH as they are polarity sensitive.
Just get the regular Points type which are not Polarity sensitive and are some £30 cheaper.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/fuel- ... ts-p830613

Mine is positive earth

it is a great age since the single points were used. This is a very, very old pump since it was serviced. You will not bring that back to life. Rebuild it. Really boring things about points or contact breakers. It was always known that they would arc and that destroys them. The temperature of the arc is extremely high. The Victorians (I have one) used noble metals of a very high melting point for this but they were very expensive. I have a Victorian doorbell with platinum points that has never required any service ever. I have lived in the same house! Anyway. those points are not platinum and they are very old. You need to either rebuild or buy a new one. I rebuild pumps. It is not a living of mine, I just like doing it like fixing watches. You would be better buying a new one, or less than half the price of a new one from club spares.

Stephen

How much are the ones from the club spares?

Farvie wrote: ↑Thu May 08, 2025 10:57 pm How much are the ones from the club spares?

Roughly £100

But seriously a full service kit is not a lot less so.....

I know you've looked at my Youtube stuff about pumps. I might pick them up for £10 but the rebuild kits are expensive and what about my time?

Stephen

100 alot cheaper than 198.
How do i go about getting one.?

Farvie wrote: ↑Thu May 08, 2025 10:57 pm How much are the ones from the club spares?

Club Spares lists
Original Spec at £70
E10 suitable at £110
Those are exchange prices and have 6mth warranty. Unspecified surcharge for non -exchange items.

From that price difference, I imagine the E10 suitable has a new diaphragm.

I don't know if the contact details, like email and phone number, are available outside club membership.

But you can message 'sparesman' via the private message function of the message board, top right of the pages.

Thank you will pop him a message

Pump ordered,

Thank you for your help