Morris Minor Owners Club

1970 Traveller. I have read at least four different ways of adjusting the handbrake, which seems to be a thorn in the side for many. The factory workshop manual says one way, Haynes another, and at least a couple of other methods can be found on this forum. So I am about to try a slightly different way this weekend and wonder what you think of it.

Working on one side at a time:

1. Remove drum. Check correct operation of wheel cylinder and lining condition. Refit drum.
2. Disconnect both cables at cylinder levers. Slacken off cable nuts inside car.
3. Adjust brakes with snail cams, then remove drum.
4. Get an assistant to tighten cable so that it can be reconnected without moving cylinder levers.
5. Then you observe the wheel cylinder while your assistant tightens the cable gradually until the cylinder just starts to move, thus removing all free play in the lever and slack in the cable. Back cable nut off half a turn.
6. Refit drum and test.
7. Carry out same procedure on other side.

Can anyone see a problem with this, or am I overthinking it? The idea is to make sure that having adjusted the shoes correctly, they are not then accidentally moved closer to the drum when the handbrake cable is adjusted. Thanks everybody!

I have just done this and I don't claim that my method is perfect but this is what I did......

Release the handbrake lever and ensure that the cable is slack at the cylinder. You can easily see and feel that the cable is slack and observe that the lever arm on the cylinder is fully retracted. There is no need to disconnect the cable. Remove drum, inspect condition of cylinder and brake lining. Clean away brake dust (wet this with brake cleaner and clean out with rags, do not inhale brake dust regardless of whether asbestos or not). Ensure cylinder is free to slide against the backplate and if not apply a little brake grease with a small artist's brush. Check condition of cylinder dust boot. Check for the presence of brake fluid (leaking cylinder) or oil (leaking hub oil seal or half shaft seals).

Replace drum and adjust up the snail cam until the drum is locked solid. Check that no tension is on the handbrake cable with the brakes locked on the adjuster. If the cable has tension you will need to slacken the nut at the handbrake lever. Back off one click and check that the drum rotates freely (obviously there is resistance from the diff).

With both sides adjusted on the snail cams turn your attention to the handbrake. Follow the manual now. Engage handbrake lever 3 clicks. As per manual, the drum should rotate with significant difficulty and on 4 clicks be absolutely locked solid. Adjust handbrake lever nut to achieve this. Same on other side. Important that the tension is the same on both sides (checked at MoT and will fail if significant difference).

Finally, disengage handbrake lever fully and check again that wheels rotate freely.

Take on road test.

Stephen

It goes without saying (nearly) that you must start by chocking all the wheels (front and back) that you haven't removed!
As for the suggested small artist's brush, I can't find any of Toulouse Lautrec's painting implements on eBay

mike1864 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 26, 2025 1:27 pm It goes without saying (nearly) that you must start by chocking all the wheels (front and back) that you haven't removed!
As for the suggested small artist's brush, I can't find any of Toulouse Lautrec's painting implements on eBay

It’s best not to attempt this job under the influence of absinthe.

Maybe so, but never forget that absinthe makes the heart grow fonder.

Yes, well - before I heading off for spiritual guidance, I have just tried svenedin's method and it worked a treat. Thank you !

ROGER B wrote: ↑Sat Apr 26, 2025 4:06 pm Yes, well - before I heading off for spiritual guidance, I have just tried svenedin's method and it worked a treat. Thank you !

You're welcome. Happy motoring!

Stephen