This is probably the best source of information yet
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- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2025 7:53 pm
- Location: Us
- MMOC Member: No
This is probably the best source of information yet
Registered just the other day and in between customer calls, I have been reading through this forum all day (all 55 pages cherry-picked) and I've seen more answers to questions I WAS going to ask but you've all done a marvelous job of pre-empting them. I've been warned of the difficulty of fitting screens; how the clap-hands wipers function; what that little switch under the dash was (Broken removing added-on gauges); how the parcel tray was made, fitted, and how it's mounted; the reasons why I won't be attempting to fit a cloth headliner; and that my car is a 1957 DeLuxe model in LHD USA trim. Originally sage green, currently in circus wagon livery (two shades of primer and some bilious bright yellow I've been sanding off), planning on respraying in black. The panels are actually straight enough that it won't be hard to get a good result. Much to be done, but between the US forum and you fine folks, it will be QED (yeah right).
- svenedin
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3106
- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:27 am
- Location: Surrey
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: This is probably the best source of information yet
Welcome and glad the forum has been useful. I don't know what I would do without the help of the members here.
The workshop manual AKD530 is essential of course but the experience of those who have being working on their cars for decades is invaluable. For instance, I was working on brakes today and the manual says to adjust up the brakes until the drum is locked and then back off 1 click. That's fine if the drum then runs with no rubbing from the shoes but what if it does rub on part of the revolution? The answer was contained on the forum: back off another click, the shoes should not rub.
The only sad thing with the forum is that a very large number of pictures are missing from older posts. This is a real pity but gradually more recent posts with photos will replace these older less useful posts.
QED? It never goes like that!
Stephen
The workshop manual AKD530 is essential of course but the experience of those who have being working on their cars for decades is invaluable. For instance, I was working on brakes today and the manual says to adjust up the brakes until the drum is locked and then back off 1 click. That's fine if the drum then runs with no rubbing from the shoes but what if it does rub on part of the revolution? The answer was contained on the forum: back off another click, the shoes should not rub.
The only sad thing with the forum is that a very large number of pictures are missing from older posts. This is a real pity but gradually more recent posts with photos will replace these older less useful posts.
QED? It never goes like that!
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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- Minor Maniac
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- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:05 pm
- Location: Hampshire
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Re: This is probably the best source of information yet
One of the biggest sources of seized and sticking brakes is the fact that the brakes are adjusted up too tight.
Slacken off not just one click - it may require up to three clicks off.
The brake cylinders must be exercised (to allow sufficient movement of the piston) to ensure that the piston does not stick.
The brake shoes should not contact the drum at all.
Also when the Minor is laid up the adjusters should be slackened right off and the brake pedal depressed on a regular basis. That additional movement goes a long way to ensuring that the cylinder pistons do not stick.
Slacken off not just one click - it may require up to three clicks off.
The brake cylinders must be exercised (to allow sufficient movement of the piston) to ensure that the piston does not stick.
The brake shoes should not contact the drum at all.
Also when the Minor is laid up the adjusters should be slackened right off and the brake pedal depressed on a regular basis. That additional movement goes a long way to ensuring that the cylinder pistons do not stick.
- svenedin
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3106
- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:27 am
- Location: Surrey
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: This is probably the best source of information yet
Yes that makes perfect sense Phil. I think the reason the adjusters are often adjusted up too tight is that it gives a (falsely) reassuring feeling of the brakes operating as soon as the pedal free play is taken up. It is slightly disconcerting when the brakes operate with the pedal a bit lower to the floor if one is not used to this. Of course if the brakes are binding for part of the revolution of the drum we both know this could overheat the drum meaning the brakes don't work when needed!!!philthehill wrote: ↑Wed Mar 26, 2025 11:28 am One of the biggest sources of seized and sticking brakes is the fact that the brakes are adjusted up too tight.
Slacken off not just one click - it may require up to three clicks off.
The brake cylinders must be exercised (to allow sufficient movement of the piston) to ensure that the piston does not stick.
The brake shoes should not contact the drum at all.
Also when the Minor is laid up the adjusters should be slackened right off and the brake pedal depressed on a regular basis. That additional movement goes a long way to ensuring that the cylinder pistons do not stick.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:32 pm
- Location: Kernow
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: This is probably the best source of information yet
My brakes were put to the test recently when a car in front slowed down suddenly without indicating to take a right turn. I slammed on the brakes and in that split second I thought I was going to go into the back of him and that I was going to skid. Fortunately, neither happened - and that with drum brakes only - no disks or servo 
