Morris Minor Owners Club

I am fitting some protech front shocks as I don't like spax which is supplied with most kits, is there anywhere that just sells the plates without shocks??
Also a question for the techs do I just remove oil from, lever arms or is there something else I need to remove.

I have yet to find a supplier of just the mounting plates.
I did manage to get a set of mounting plates without the dampers off 'e' bay. You just need to keep your eyes peeled.
The bottom plates were modified to fit the revised front suspension on my Minor which has the Marina thick suspension arm. If you fit tele dampers you do need to remove the Minor damper valve assy which is located in the bottom of the damper and is accessed via the large nut at the bottom of the damper.
Fill with straight 30 engine oil to keep the pivot bush lubricated.

Thanks Phil

In the instructions supplied with my Mr Grumpys's front telescopic damper kit, it says you have to cut down the recessed bolt that holds the damper valve (once you've removed it), so that it is just a flush bolt, then refill with damper oil.

I can't recall when I fitted them back in the early 1990s whether I actually did cut them down or not...

In any case, I've reverted to standard front lever arms and Mr Grumpy's (Gabriel Red Ryder) telescopic kit still on the rear, which copes quite well with the local rough roads.

Extract from the Owen Burton Marina to Minor booklet. I believe that the Mr Grumpys kit is the same as the Owen Burton kit.
It does say remove part of the holding nut (lower hexagon nut see diagram below) but there is no need to remove any metal from the holding nut. All the holding nut does is hold the valve in place. Be aware that once the metal has been removed from the holding nut the holding nut cannot then be reused if you revert to the original type dampers.
The Owen Burton booklet does state 'fill the damper with engine oil'.
There is no need to use damper oil as the damper is no longer a damper. Damper oil is a anti frothing oil.
I have not removed any metal from the valve holding nut and the damper acts as it should be in that it is now just the top suspension pivot point.

Yes, those are similar to the instructions I have. I seem to remember ignoring the bit about cutting down the valve retaining bolt; I was probably too eager at the time to find out what the new (classic Mini) telescopic dampers were like!

As I recall, they were great for smooth roads, but made for a rather harsh, jiggly ride on the local county roads, as they have very limited travel.

This morning I stripped out the valve holder nut to see if the part of the valve holder nut that is recommended to be removed by Owen Burton needs to be removed or can be left as it is.
Upon examination I cannot see any reason for the valve holder nut to be modified. Once the valve assy is removed the damper is neutralised and is just the top suspension mount.
Below is the valve holder nut as removed. There are two bleed by holes in the waisted section of the nut.
When I get a chance I will shorten the valve holder nut back to the rear of the waist and see if it makes any difference.
At the moment with the complete valve holder nut fitted and the damper valve removed the damper arm is free to move through its full arc without any resistance which indicates to me that there is no need to shorten the valve holder nut.