Morris Minor Owners Club

I’m interested to know how much one should expect the movement of the universal joints to have when on the vehicle. I have just replaced my UJs and whatever the orientation of the joint at the diff end there is limited movement until the grease nipple hits the surrounding metal. I am disappointed with the joints, apart from the position of the grease nipples the fact that the thread is quite sloppy. I might look out for another prop and check out some decent UJs for future fitting. You have to be on the ball when buying parts now. Of course it’s not always convenient to collect parts in person, where you can check them out before buying.

Les
There should be no movement in any part of the Universal joint when fitted.
Parts these day seem to be very poorly made. I saved the U/Js out of a scrap prop-shaft as they were perfectly serviceable and too good to go in the scrap bin. Likewise with any serviceable used parts they get put to one side for future use.
Phil

Phil, the actual UJs have no movement within themselves, I just wondered when driving how much does the prop activate the joints, would it be too little to hit the nipple. I’m wondering if I didn’t explain myself clearly before. I wish I had left well alone but with a snapped nipple originally I thought I would replace.

Les
The prop-shaft itself does not activate the joints it is the articulation/movement of the axle.
The axle will rotate around its pivot point on the springs. Also the movement of the springs can transfer articulation to the prop-shaft.
In an ideal situation the prop-shaft will remain in its designed plane - but then the axle movement messes that all up.
Normally the U/J yoke has a recess for the grease nipple to sink into when articulation between the axle and prop-shaft is at its greatest.
When assembling the U/J did you notice if the yoke of the prop-shaft had that recess and if it did was it aligned with the grease nipple.
So as not to create more work I would suggest that the U/J is well greased, the grease nipple removed and the nipple hole plugged with a locking screw.
Once well greased there is little need for repeat greasing of the U/J.
Phil.

Thanks Phil, I understand the activation principle regarding the ride, when for example, driving over bumps etc but unlike your good self I’m not expressing myself clearly ! I saw no recess in the yoke, however I tried the UJ in different positions with some but limited travel in either position, before the nipple hit. I did think of fitting a grub screw instead of the nipple, as I think some joints are nipple less. So probably will do that on the end that is restricted. As usual thanks for your insight.

viewtopic.php?p=698683#p698683

Have look at above post

Thanks for the link Bill, interesting read, the circlip issue was pertinent as I had the same issue of the UJ being tight, I couldn’t find a thinner ‘clip though, it was bordering OK so I reluctantly accepted it. I like the idea of the nipple at the end of the joint.
I’ve had a stressful three weeks, what with the gearbox change, oil leak and stuff, glad it’s virtually over. Timing chain is my next consideration.

"Timing chain is my next consideration."
Recently renewed mine and had every intention of going duplex. I bought the kit and countersinks to modify the front engine plate.
Fitted simplex in the end. I did already have n.o.s. camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket - the real thing - and a chain.
Aftermarket parts strike again because there was no way, without serious fettling, that either supplied in the kit would fit. The camshaft sprocket is the worse. It barely goes onto the end of the camshaft.

Parts not fitting, oh don’t be silly !

Wander warning.

It all boils down to how much money you want to spend.
Buy a cheap duplex kit and you will have to fettle.
Now buy a good quality duplex kit and the parts will fit like a glove.
My preference is to fit a NOS BMC Cooper steel duplex (they are about) or a Kent Cams set up.
Used Cooper sprockets as they are steel are a good buy and usually cheap. New steel Innocenti crank sprockets were available from Minisport Padiham.
As the camshaft sprocket goes at half the speed of the crankshaft sprocket the camshaft sprocket incurs very little wear and if anything needs replacing it is the crankshaft sprocket.
No need for fancy Vernier type kits for normal running.
Make it all last a bit longer by fitting a 'A' Plus timing chain tensioner.
Here is a genuine Cooper S duplex set up
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145912963066 ... R7j4npGjZA
I would replace the chain as a matter of course.
Here is a genuine Innocenti set up
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354734648171 ... QE8970J3EQ

Well I’ve got the cooper s crankshaft sprocket, that’s a start !
If I do the job I’d be interested to fit a tensioner as well.

Sadly I was not aware of those parts Phil links to. Informed after the event.
I think somebody did suggest buying the duplex kit because it wasn't much more in price to buying an unobtainium camshaft simplex sprocket. It was in a thread I started re valve timing.
Fortunately I found the parts I fitted during a rummage.

There are and always has been plenty of the unobtainium 'sic' simplex sprockets both new and used for sale on 'e' bay.
The 'A' Plus simplex chain must be used with a chain tensioner. To fit the tensioner one also needs the tensioner timing chain cover with the tensioner bulge.
The non 'A' Plus simplex with the rubber tensioner rings does not need a chain tensioner but the tension provided by the rubber rings does not last long.

Switching back to the prop shaft issue. —-After reading the link kindly posted by Bill and reading about tight UJs, caused by circlips being too thick, I became unhappy with accepting a degree of stiffness in the joints of my prop. Today I had 2 thou removed from 4 of the circlips, which resulted in a nice free movement of all joints. I’ll sleep well tonight !

Les
Well done.
How did you manage to take 0.002" off the circlips?
I usually find that by carefully knocking the needle cups back against the circlips frees up any stiffness in the joint.
Phil

Well done lLes, it always better when you have peace of mind with a job and worth the effort

Thank you both for your appreciation, I needed to be happy with the job. Regarding the 2 thou——- there is a small engineering workshop that I got to know, quite local. They did the job on their surface grinder, in fact they did the circlips while I waited !
4 clips minus .002 and 2 clips at minus .003, just in case I needed thinner. I didn’t though. Took the circlips in this afternoon and refitted the prop a few hours later. I did try the hammer method earlier but with no success.

Les
Many thanks for the reply.
That engineering firm especially as they did the job whilst you waited is one to be valued. A link would not go amiss.
Not many firm left with a 'how can we help you and the customer comes first' attitude.
Phil

The workshop is ———-Newtech Tools, Swanley, Kent.
Soon as I walked in there, out came the micrometer, you just know when you’ve found a survivor !

https://www.newtechtools.co.uk/