Engine block

[davidpidge]

Hi all,
I picked up this block in an attempt to cobble together a decent engine.
It's probably come out a midget. Will the head from my 1098 engine that's currently in the traveller go on this block ok? Are they the same engine?
I'm hoping to swap everything over to this new block.

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[geoberni]

From what I can see there, it's simply a 1098 Block.
The 1100 Plate and the 12A 497 says that.
The Plug by the Drain Tap is where a mechanical drive Tacho would have connected up, which I think were used on MGs.
So I don't see why you can't swap bits over to it.

Unless one of our engine experts recognised anything more...

[davidpidge]

Excellent thanks for the info.

[philthehill]

The engine is 1098cc with a 12A497 block but is not standard.
The front engine plate with strengthening channel is off a later MG Midget/Sprite so could have been fitted with a Duplex set up.
The 1098cc 12G202 head will fit on the block shown without any modification.
The plug next to the coolant drain tap is the oil pump priming plug.
It is not the take off for the rev counter.
The early Sprite rev counter was driven off the rear of the dynamo and later rev counters were electronic.
I am intrigued by that thick sump flange to which the sump is attached.
I think that there is more to the block than is first seen/shown.
I believe it is a 10CG block as fitted to the Sprite Mk 2 and MG Mk 1.

[davidpidge]

Wow thanks for all the info. Fancy dropping by and giving me a hand and all your knowledge in a matrix style brain download?

[Classiccars]

If only.

[philthehill]

You never know.
I know Frome very well.
I was at the Royal Oak Corsley Heath (just outside Frome) recently for lunch.
Phil

[geoberni]

The plug next to the coolant drain tap is the oil pump priming plug.
It is not the take off for the rev counter.

That's interesting Phil, I didn't know they used an Oil Pump Priming Plug.
I was confusing it with the Rev Counter facility on the B series.

Another School Day....

How is it used to prime the Oil Pump, from it's position it looks as though any oil put in there would simply drain down into the sump??

[davidpidge]

You never know.
I know Frome very well.
I was at the Royal Oak Corsley Heath (just outside Frome) recently for lunch.
Phil

I'm in Warminster now. Moved start of the year. If you're ever at a lose end and want to look over what I have I'd be very grateful. I was going to pull everything off the old engine and take it to a local guy in Chapmanslade near Frome to see if he'd build it all up ready to go back in the car. He's Stretton classics.

[davidpidge]

I was given a tin of push rods etc with the block. I assume I'll want to use these instead of the one's in the existing engine? Can they go in anywhere as I don't know what order they came out obviously.

[philthehill]

My work took me to Warminster on a regular basis.
I was not aware of a car restoration firm in Chapmanslade so that is good to know.
https://www.facebook.com/StrettonClassics/
I have friends who live there near the turn to the recreation field.
As regards the push rods:-
The 1098cc engine uses the short 8.5" push rod. The 1275cc engine uses the longer 8.75"push rod as the block is taller.
The push rods can go back into any cam follower/head passage as you do not know their original position.
Are you going to use new cam followers? I would recommend that you do.
Please come back to me if you need any further information/help.
Phil

[davidpidge]

I will now. They don't seem expensive for a set.
The seller said he thought the cam had been modified in some way, or it was a non standard cam. I'll get a photo and see what you think. It's also had a rear oil seal modification that mini spares sell.

[philthehill]

My recommendation as regards the rear seal modification is that you remove it and put it in the scrap bin.
Unless you have the flywheel flange precision ground and/or a speedy sleeve fitted the lip seal is not going to last very long. The outer face of the flywheel mounting flange and which against the seal makes contact is just rough finished and is not suitable for a neoprene lip seal.
If you ditch the lip seal you will have to source and fit the top half of the crankshaft oil thrower catcher. You may be able to utilise the one off the old engine. Photo of oil catcher cover below

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Most non factory modified cams are stamped with the makers numbers/mark. If you can find it and post a photo of the cam and numbers/mark then we can possibly identify it.

[davidpidge]

Any tips for removing a head that doesn't want to move?

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No worries. It's moving.

[philthehill]

Remove what studs you can.
Coat the rest in Plus Gas and leave to soak in.
Put a bar in the inlet/exhaust tracks and wiggle the head to loosen the head from the studs.
On reassembly clean all the studs and coat with copper ease.

[davidpidge]

It was just the rear stud that was holding on. Finally wrestled it off. I'll post some photos for assessment.

[davidpidge]

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[Myrtles Man]

I realise that the problem has now been resolved but, had that not been the case, perhaps the age-old trick of feeding a length of rope down through each spark plug hole then briefly operating the starter motor might have shifted it.

[philthehill]

I would ditch the head studs already fitted, countersink the stud holes and fit a set of 'A' Plus cylinder head studs with flanged nuts.
With the 'A' Plus studs and flanged nuts you can increase the head torque to 50lbf ft.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186481991703 ... R_rOicywZA

[davidpidge]

I realise that the problem has now been resolved but, had that not been the case, perhaps the age-old trick of feeding a length of rope down through each spark plug hole then briefly operating the starter motor might have shifted it.

I'd love to try that!