Bottom end rebuild
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2024 12:11 am
My engine was sounding a bit 'main bearing-y' so I thought I'd pop it out and have a look.
What I found was the centre main bottom shell was through to the copper, but all the other bearings, both main and big end were looking OK.
I did them all because why not, but I did realise that I could have simply left the engine in, just dropped the sump, and swapped out that easily accessible bearing shell without disturbing anything else.
As it was, I put in fresh shims, tappets, a new duplex timing chain, new hoses and a belt, and painted things a bit.
It's 'running in' on some 'high mileage full synth 10W-40 with lashings of ZDDP at the moment.
Tomorrow, if my back allows, it's brake time!
It was the revelation that just one shell would have been enough to resolve the problem that prompted me to post. If anyone else has 'mains' noise, don't assume you HAVE to pull the engine and lift the crank out. Have a peek at the centre bearing first. If it is patchy, through to the copper in the middle but not generally torn up, it alone may well be the only thing required. It is after all, where the most flex loading occurs on a three bearing crank.
What I found was the centre main bottom shell was through to the copper, but all the other bearings, both main and big end were looking OK.
I did them all because why not, but I did realise that I could have simply left the engine in, just dropped the sump, and swapped out that easily accessible bearing shell without disturbing anything else.
As it was, I put in fresh shims, tappets, a new duplex timing chain, new hoses and a belt, and painted things a bit.
It's 'running in' on some 'high mileage full synth 10W-40 with lashings of ZDDP at the moment.
Tomorrow, if my back allows, it's brake time!
It was the revelation that just one shell would have been enough to resolve the problem that prompted me to post. If anyone else has 'mains' noise, don't assume you HAVE to pull the engine and lift the crank out. Have a peek at the centre bearing first. If it is patchy, through to the copper in the middle but not generally torn up, it alone may well be the only thing required. It is after all, where the most flex loading occurs on a three bearing crank.